tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63741874193159930172024-03-12T04:50:32.000+00:00Sproket's Small WorldA place to showcase my painted miniatures and share my work in progress.David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.comBlogger322125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-45700850877116661862022-10-27T14:53:00.000+01:002022-10-27T14:53:19.912+01:00Project P30 - Part 16b<h3 style="text-align: left;">The End is Nigh - Part 2. </h3><br />With the exception of the base (and that’s a whole new chapter) the remaining work on my Tank is a matter of finishing things off. Some parts need to be painted from scratch but most of the work involved tying-up lose ends from earlier work. <br /><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;">Fix the hand holding the bell into place. </h4><p><br />This was a far more straightforward process than the mecha arm. I simply glued the bell hand in place with plastic glue. Once that had set, I filled the seam with dilute PVA and then retouched the paintwork. This felt like an enormously significant step as I was finally adding the sub-assemblies to the model. At long last it was all coming together! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3t1YlJXYtWLKS0Nr2NKhKh1_-fFyehbK43Xbd6_4ty6DnkaNEC9lwdGfQ1eB4I786B3n_ccTTjs6e65h4Vo_xSnhVbhEly6wSnqlwA7tR77XWCI3ojoPX0lnkgXB4E_Q7qK7rJFgTxL2DwHM7RsOPY607lzKlE_HxWGJ11TWsO5wSCtWRtc7s7R_-A/s900/bell2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3t1YlJXYtWLKS0Nr2NKhKh1_-fFyehbK43Xbd6_4ty6DnkaNEC9lwdGfQ1eB4I786B3n_ccTTjs6e65h4Vo_xSnhVbhEly6wSnqlwA7tR77XWCI3ojoPX0lnkgXB4E_Q7qK7rJFgTxL2DwHM7RsOPY607lzKlE_HxWGJ11TWsO5wSCtWRtc7s7R_-A/w400-h400/bell2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicI4FOFuau8Ni7d36Tem5Xr91WvoIbKSGqG8pWJ1r7SnJyOwJCCkA-FweZy8RI1snLSJF955bOaatxwQUhpwGzqERuJ36VM4wppG5ZrvlYOih9_t3vEU88uPHTB_1E1rH6VweD_YC9FOlLicQqGBp0gIGJ0EMxeeG_nzFIYCJG1aUrJsrN1390bBSapw/s900/bell1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicI4FOFuau8Ni7d36Tem5Xr91WvoIbKSGqG8pWJ1r7SnJyOwJCCkA-FweZy8RI1snLSJF955bOaatxwQUhpwGzqERuJ36VM4wppG5ZrvlYOih9_t3vEU88uPHTB_1E1rH6VweD_YC9FOlLicQqGBp0gIGJ0EMxeeG_nzFIYCJG1aUrJsrN1390bBSapw/w400-h400/bell1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;">Fix the chimneys back into place. </h4><p><br />Now things really started to near completion as the re-addition of the chimneys would complete the model’s silhouette. I’d removed the chimneys earlier to make them easier to paint and I’d expected their reattachment to be a tricky process. In the end it went very smoothly. The chimneys were pinned, then glued back into position, leaving relatively minor seams to cover. For the smaller chimney, there was a matter of adding some corrosion over the join. A little corrosion can hide a multitude of sins! </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnL3BN0fJ1XPqW_DTWS7b2rwsj-xZWFyhdmKkmiyevAwFsETVufhqD1cF73AO-nl2deIrDpZI8e_YXUCxNp0QzAorLpKfCJQZp3Cs01YmwVWiYkMQxBe3jx6QZqVy6poDLhTRInSeSjt06AnXO48JciHCa8G7NW2b-x-jCHGKKB5ovCnhO0KBGGy36w/s900/chimneys2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnL3BN0fJ1XPqW_DTWS7b2rwsj-xZWFyhdmKkmiyevAwFsETVufhqD1cF73AO-nl2deIrDpZI8e_YXUCxNp0QzAorLpKfCJQZp3Cs01YmwVWiYkMQxBe3jx6QZqVy6poDLhTRInSeSjt06AnXO48JciHCa8G7NW2b-x-jCHGKKB5ovCnhO0KBGGy36w/w400-h400/chimneys2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uN10M4kKNS9Jg9Cphr9J6l1eTnlSwEPH5TXKoHbyM8EBFQes8IY2Fymnz4_msSthgMTqc4fekLeTwlKo2LJrFGtIJUjWewAfDvl4URW8mAgITJhorvEuWw1vEtjZPC2HZK0eIk3ykqoSwGd7CreJ8POgQHtcwVYOZQFrTfpFpIPKvXJAYjVwl9oCAw/s900/chimneys1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uN10M4kKNS9Jg9Cphr9J6l1eTnlSwEPH5TXKoHbyM8EBFQes8IY2Fymnz4_msSthgMTqc4fekLeTwlKo2LJrFGtIJUjWewAfDvl4URW8mAgITJhorvEuWw1vEtjZPC2HZK0eIk3ykqoSwGd7CreJ8POgQHtcwVYOZQFrTfpFpIPKvXJAYjVwl9oCAw/w400-h400/chimneys1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p>For the larger chimney, I had to re-sculpt some of the bubbly flesh texture over the join and then fill some hairline cracks with dilute PVA. I also added a few bony spines to this. Overall I’m very happy with the result. In fact, I think this area works better than it did before I removed the chimneys! Painting this area was a matter of matching up the colours to my existing scheme. <br /><br />I was now finally able to add a long planned feature to the model. Some time ago I decided that I wanted coarse bristles sprouting from the Daemon’s back and shoulders. I’ve used grass tufts and paintbrush bristles to create similar effects in the past. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnZ2FNSN9eja2hZrIfQE9qQ7hwVol3Tltu6-0blBi7BqWtAM5FvZMOy1btkla5jxL7ReNZzRgDHTKWkolFWWF0F2gGn9rmAKrwNDXA3QAqVq17KB7KvkSYH8tJMDW_xDmsoqc6RG7ZYPR39eLpmCKwOu858uIp7HiBdHD5I2mvwPsccXW2koU-tCeCA/s900/chimneys4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnZ2FNSN9eja2hZrIfQE9qQ7hwVol3Tltu6-0blBi7BqWtAM5FvZMOy1btkla5jxL7ReNZzRgDHTKWkolFWWF0F2gGn9rmAKrwNDXA3QAqVq17KB7KvkSYH8tJMDW_xDmsoqc6RG7ZYPR39eLpmCKwOu858uIp7HiBdHD5I2mvwPsccXW2koU-tCeCA/w400-h400/chimneys4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2vD7AIVMQYqUZVFCK-0pk2kdmq7Pht1xxXQ8cd7Raix5STjAGhcaAOeOen8BnafkyUk4S4Zx6xwNj2MOIIQD4Hn-ZnM3_1Nh_sIU3uqg7uyWiCmfamFmQqK2xi3Fa0wiuNxSMLjWYjEdbSflwvNpkZyMmOZNU0aSIandLwCVS0_Dn0WyQpxEw1zkZ1g/s900/chimneys3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2vD7AIVMQYqUZVFCK-0pk2kdmq7Pht1xxXQ8cd7Raix5STjAGhcaAOeOen8BnafkyUk4S4Zx6xwNj2MOIIQD4Hn-ZnM3_1Nh_sIU3uqg7uyWiCmfamFmQqK2xi3Fa0wiuNxSMLjWYjEdbSflwvNpkZyMmOZNU0aSIandLwCVS0_Dn0WyQpxEw1zkZ1g/w400-h400/chimneys3.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p>My first attempt, using grass tufts, was an instant fail! The ‘hair’ looked too fluffy. Fluffy is not what we want or expect from Nurgle! For ‘plan B’ I used false eyelashes for the hairs which have a curve to them and taper to a point. They proved to be perfect. I cut them into small clusters, or individual hairs, and glued them into place with PVA. Once again this was tricky work but the final effect is exactly what I wanted! <br /><br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">4. Painting the Tentacles </h4><p><br />I’ve a notebook with seven years worth of ideas written down for this project. As my plans developed and changed I kept notes to make sure nothing was forgotten. But, by the time I started painting, there were far to many, sometimes conflicting, plans for one project. Much of my decision making has been around which ideas to implement and which to reject. As the scheme developed the process of editing my plans became easier. <br /><br />The tentacles are an example of the ‘less is more’ approach I’ve taken in the later stages of this project. I’d initially envisioned them as a larger version of the tentacles on Gutrot Spume, complete with stripes and dripping slime. But I felt that the stripes would bring an unnecessary new element to the scheme which would make the tentacles stand out from the rest of the model in an unsatisfactory way. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DNIxVnvncAdbC4NK3c5ulhaXbL9PUnFArvVcKt0koy7oe_O5zMdq3FFLfXexe2dD5xhDz4ruo5XqwDbAiDAboZfvIUJp3Ce10baWV04Ed08x4CFxW3iv5FVvPpmniBcyQYA3feVpf3bhC0lKilg6zEZNuB-X1DlE6f5TzEvFEAQXB1Mrmne6EtZz6A/s900/tentacles3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DNIxVnvncAdbC4NK3c5ulhaXbL9PUnFArvVcKt0koy7oe_O5zMdq3FFLfXexe2dD5xhDz4ruo5XqwDbAiDAboZfvIUJp3Ce10baWV04Ed08x4CFxW3iv5FVvPpmniBcyQYA3feVpf3bhC0lKilg6zEZNuB-X1DlE6f5TzEvFEAQXB1Mrmne6EtZz6A/w400-h400/tentacles3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRlOpqew04zXYcZ9VIUMQ1fPon7nGYhH5n8AMhNPn4yOUhY9GwV6q6XiFLd5bISOvtmYehIJi7zJLU5tn8ogigrr1AB1DGuzqJCD3AP_DDd0dz0KYL1EgKhLeoPuzV3X1m8UnSVTOqnAMaucJE6OwlcvBgy1sG6BOtNIjc2q6BEGgMldBTJsHvbsv1lg/s900/tentacles2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRlOpqew04zXYcZ9VIUMQ1fPon7nGYhH5n8AMhNPn4yOUhY9GwV6q6XiFLd5bISOvtmYehIJi7zJLU5tn8ogigrr1AB1DGuzqJCD3AP_DDd0dz0KYL1EgKhLeoPuzV3X1m8UnSVTOqnAMaucJE6OwlcvBgy1sG6BOtNIjc2q6BEGgMldBTJsHvbsv1lg/w400-h400/tentacles2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6NYQMX80p9jPZOntCrFNzK8DJO9oV8sKsskWH7v9jJVspGzJQpSO-zNaajOLo8xwcUphT_Btd0FqFmk9bV79ZCV9vL02pukG_bVlDIXpqxXbGkpWF6ct9VSVYHF7i54yrJAsWTrY_aM7sODthoohwarZnoLqM6MMKdE3CCl6TKbmFyM8T8X7Um63NA/s900/tentacles1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6NYQMX80p9jPZOntCrFNzK8DJO9oV8sKsskWH7v9jJVspGzJQpSO-zNaajOLo8xwcUphT_Btd0FqFmk9bV79ZCV9vL02pukG_bVlDIXpqxXbGkpWF6ct9VSVYHF7i54yrJAsWTrY_aM7sODthoohwarZnoLqM6MMKdE3CCl6TKbmFyM8T8X7Um63NA/w400-h400/tentacles1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p>Rather than stripes, I’ve painted the same freehand texture as used on the sides and back of the model. This adds interest to the tentacles but ties them in to the overall scheme. I’ve used colour to make them pop against the rest of the model. Starting from green hues at the base they graduate through a pinkish flesh tone to blue tips. The blue is my old favorite Bering Blue, which I’ve used throughout the scheme. It’s at its most obvious on the tentacle tips. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">5. Add drool. </h4><p><br />I rejected the idea of slime dripping from the tentacles as being just too much! This also applied to most of my plans for adding extra slime and goo to the model. My tank from 1990 has a liberal application of slime made from PVE glue and then painted. I strongly felt that I already had enough slime and goo on my new model and any more would begin to dominate the painting. <br /><br />But there was one area where I very much wanted to break out the microbeads and water effects. This was the mouth (the one in the Daemon’s head) where I felt the addition of drool would be beneficial. The mouth was one of the very first areas I painted and its been a long wait to be able to finish it! </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioy1S456td5-3gggZNinLR71JM49tacVJiOrdloZtgpe2bhW7exShNu6yYxwKl-GHPqxTN6g0Gi_Yhe-U09966w_bcdvPNaAOZIp9TnF3SYtCEC1xeddbfNwIYVAf-jn0gQH1oisTjZKgTeuGRm6L4jEx3kz3s5-GaCPM1pzxdYMJcp7VSAqslV79H4Q/s900/drool2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioy1S456td5-3gggZNinLR71JM49tacVJiOrdloZtgpe2bhW7exShNu6yYxwKl-GHPqxTN6g0Gi_Yhe-U09966w_bcdvPNaAOZIp9TnF3SYtCEC1xeddbfNwIYVAf-jn0gQH1oisTjZKgTeuGRm6L4jEx3kz3s5-GaCPM1pzxdYMJcp7VSAqslV79H4Q/w400-h400/drool2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQvw3PVdulHDF3TvJ_bt2Djuvwz1kK-3M3ull7oTRTDm7lrZsJLKiONe_r-ARPyRbbbepMhgc3rqLJ9U0ZfxHoIOzL4IBIfh4_iUhCtvyRYgnmhHT2-ryfNPn0ITRFTUuPZJM06rdqy11197rNhyo6XErX0WWKuuAMb915Z_hVGAVL6d3Zq-jz2alp6w/s900/drool1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQvw3PVdulHDF3TvJ_bt2Djuvwz1kK-3M3ull7oTRTDm7lrZsJLKiONe_r-ARPyRbbbepMhgc3rqLJ9U0ZfxHoIOzL4IBIfh4_iUhCtvyRYgnmhHT2-ryfNPn0ITRFTUuPZJM06rdqy11197rNhyo6XErX0WWKuuAMb915Z_hVGAVL6d3Zq-jz2alp6w/w400-h400/drool1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p>I decided to focus the effect to one side of the mouth rather than filling the jaws with stringy drool. This was done with that old favorite UHU glue. Once the glue had set (it goes rubbery rather than hard) I built up several layers of water effects and microbeads. Once dry I gave it three coats of gloss varnish. <br /><br /><b>In the final of these updates I’ll describe how I made and painted the base for my Daemon Engine. </b><br /><br /></p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-65879446379778381652022-10-19T13:06:00.004+01:002022-10-19T13:21:44.232+01:00Project P30 - Part 16a<h3 style="text-align: left;">The End is Nigh!</h3><p>It will come as a great surprise to anyone if I state that a lot has happened since I last posted regularly on this blog! Not least the long anticipated return of Golden Demon UK at Warhammer World on October 1 & 2. I posted some finished pics here during the weekend of the competion but it’s time to indulge in a little time travel as I bring things up to date. <br /><br />For some time my gut feeling was that I’d finish the Daemon Engine this year but there’s nothing like a deadline to boost momentum! I felt that, with some effort, the October deadline might be achievable so I decided to go for it. The last few months have seen some adrenaline fueled painting and I now feel more confident about that deadline. Things have been coming together well and the end is in sight! <br /><br />As I move towards the closing stages of a project I usually create a checklist of things to do. This helps me to keep focused, stay on target and avoid missing anything out in a rush to get finished. It’s been especially useful this time around as there have been many steps to complete. In my next few posts I’ll describe that list of jobs in the order I did them. <br /><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Finish the mecha arm. </h3><p><br />This arm has been the most physically difficult area of the model to paint so far! In retrospect, I wish I had found a way to paint the arm as a sub-assembly, which would have made things a lot easier. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ICYCk2_sQpXAU-p67CJqPQ_tb57cgH-Pb3jrgihIsPGOQVBQ2yavzaJiWzV5wdkdYz3GT1PyoxupYMQOMtuEy6ELdsNPvM0lr8bT7SjtBrODWcww_OOKi0l14ciDx-GGOHX6HqS3IiVNpR2Q56fCH2zUziEWtftR3SUrfU4Pj6lDSRoUWVyElIc0UA/s900/arm1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ICYCk2_sQpXAU-p67CJqPQ_tb57cgH-Pb3jrgihIsPGOQVBQ2yavzaJiWzV5wdkdYz3GT1PyoxupYMQOMtuEy6ELdsNPvM0lr8bT7SjtBrODWcww_OOKi0l14ciDx-GGOHX6HqS3IiVNpR2Q56fCH2zUziEWtftR3SUrfU4Pj6lDSRoUWVyElIc0UA/w400-h200/arm1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br />However, the more interesting problem was to address the transitions between areas of flesh and metal. The arm came from the Forge Fiend kit and as such already depicted a union of monster and machine. This was a good starting point. I especially liked the hand as it matched the size of the fleshy hand holding the bell. However, some of the fleshy parts of the arm lacked the definition and texture that I wanted. I built up these areas with a combination of greenstuff, texture paste and microbeads. This had the additional benefit of helping to integrate the arm with the overall scheme by the use of common textures. This applied most especially to the bubbly/blistered texture I’d added elsewhere. <br /><br />The next task was to address the stump out of which the mechanical arm protruded. Microbeads (of course) provided much of the texture, but I wanted something more. I wanted to create a semi liquid, ragged texture, as if the flesh was in the process of flowing into a new form. My greatest inspiration for this was the writing of Michael Moorcock, and most especially ‘Stormbringer’, which has had a huge influence on how I see the forces of Chaos and their effects. To create the flowing flesh, I used a variation of the cotton wool and water effects splash effect (<a href="https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2017/08/building-better-splash.html" target="_blank">shown HERE</a>). In this case, however, I used a PVA glue and paint mix instead of water effects. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFX7zoOV8Zhw_sMMY3kzsJoq6TXBqJSq3PrDb75FJQ0gzAABwzLad4alkltRSuQsRhGkP5CMkeBNTFP093RG5p1n-Q9hNO-2aCH93V1Bbc0hNL6WIW-2i8Kru55lzHYMLk0nIrHqlAbNh2FsBs6y_ktA9dk2Qvo0zbJJ_squWB8mEZgK2EhxlUjMD_ag/s900/arm2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFX7zoOV8Zhw_sMMY3kzsJoq6TXBqJSq3PrDb75FJQ0gzAABwzLad4alkltRSuQsRhGkP5CMkeBNTFP093RG5p1n-Q9hNO-2aCH93V1Bbc0hNL6WIW-2i8Kru55lzHYMLk0nIrHqlAbNh2FsBs6y_ktA9dk2Qvo0zbJJ_squWB8mEZgK2EhxlUjMD_ag/w400-h200/arm2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br />I was very pleased with the final effect but the overall look of the arm didn’t feel right to me. After some thought I decided that I needed more metal and machine parts in proportion to the fleshy parts. Taking my nerves in hand, I clipped off the large green tentacle (I was to later use it elsewhere) and added the spikey guard rail from the Plague Burst Crawler. It was a nasty job but I was much happier with the arm once it was done! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJDHzSVCjniDTaLaVsf9SYKNfF3nt3qv83vkvzh7KLbOJsEfAY5nRzLnK2vSMDrwRoUannu0_K19GMWPUmpwDupK56q1-RLSOT64m8mwEV6Z91NkUIL_WUawFBO2ZEDsyNuR6m4yE69NBlG4hNxCbtOQof0dNihmEr0ivbB6lua5UoAoexckxCfAsDtg/s900/arm3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJDHzSVCjniDTaLaVsf9SYKNfF3nt3qv83vkvzh7KLbOJsEfAY5nRzLnK2vSMDrwRoUannu0_K19GMWPUmpwDupK56q1-RLSOT64m8mwEV6Z91NkUIL_WUawFBO2ZEDsyNuR6m4yE69NBlG4hNxCbtOQof0dNihmEr0ivbB6lua5UoAoexckxCfAsDtg/w400-h200/arm3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <h3 style="text-align: left;">Paint the sides of the tank. </h3><p><br />I regarded the sides of the tank as three distinct areas: the side panels, the tracks and the entropy cannon. The side panels are especially significant because it was here I wanted to create a major transition between flesh and metal. <br /><br />I’d decided upon the colours for this transition as a part of my ongoing work. The fleshy parts of the side panels were to be a deep green, transitioning from the lighter green upper parts. I felt that a flashy NMM effect would be inappropriate for the metal parts. So I used a brown hue inspired by patinated bronze. This was the same treatment I’d used on the ‘boiler’ at the back of the tank. It is a colour that contrasts with the green but not in a way that draws the eye away from the focal points of the model. <br /><br />The transition is created through the use of a freehand texture. This was based upon the painted texture of the upper flesh areas, so it felt like a part of the overall scheme. I’d not been looking forward to painting this transition but, by the time I came to do it, things had become fairly straightforward. All my choices had been made as an on-going part of the project’s evolution, so I was able to focus on executing them rather than worrying about what to do! All in all this was one of the faster parts of the paint scheme to complete. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHReviky5YI-zdblxeNFaejJgr-vaTtMOWHSWZU0i2yz9dYIZs0bbXXOq3aqVz3B_GkaOq7XjbVseU5tosDJMRD-b8raszNu90wlnGmEpPuQZCz91hlG9cVfntJidC909B2ldPAk69ibdLvwfZVBhQaZsmDgOoHb5BfRi3WK3tvQgBTU1t1W4DiD3vw/s900/side%20panels1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHReviky5YI-zdblxeNFaejJgr-vaTtMOWHSWZU0i2yz9dYIZs0bbXXOq3aqVz3B_GkaOq7XjbVseU5tosDJMRD-b8raszNu90wlnGmEpPuQZCz91hlG9cVfntJidC909B2ldPAk69ibdLvwfZVBhQaZsmDgOoHb5BfRi3WK3tvQgBTU1t1W4DiD3vw/w400-h400/side%20panels1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br />Now I could paint the tracks. Once again my choices were informed by my earlier decisions. I kept the scheme for this area fairly simple. I painted the tracks and all the associated wheels, gears and general gubbins in the same dull grey NMM I’d used elsewhere. This would contrast with the adjacent parts of the model but fit in with the overall scheme. I had some plans for adding lots of mud and dirt but decided against this. As things have progressed, I’ve been editing my plans as it is easy to go OTT with this project. There is already a lot going on with the overall scheme. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB8N-wjaGHhS-Bb-krJzb6YmG7_bkyHUOl4DctC0GGkKFxR5bIm1WSW4mYn8OqGKLaDU_hjnynriAg2b9vkg7pBUn7lUGc_GqsFguERWg53IliPzRuq_w87nVLdgcaf7E7H80hcF6-zyjtebFIYcPChPIHkx3i33G0FznKyzkpFQJjiXhuHcGQWGFeMw/s2493/side%20panels2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2493" data-original-width="2493" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB8N-wjaGHhS-Bb-krJzb6YmG7_bkyHUOl4DctC0GGkKFxR5bIm1WSW4mYn8OqGKLaDU_hjnynriAg2b9vkg7pBUn7lUGc_GqsFguERWg53IliPzRuq_w87nVLdgcaf7E7H80hcF6-zyjtebFIYcPChPIHkx3i33G0FznKyzkpFQJjiXhuHcGQWGFeMw/w400-h400/side%20panels2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br />Rather than adding heavy layers of dirt, I painted some fairly subtle rust effects and blended them into the brown shadows to give a grimy feel. My global shade colour is Black Leather from Scale Colour which helped with this a great deal. I am particularly fond of shading cool or neutral greys with brown hues. As always, the photographs I took for lighting reference were extremely useful when it came to placing my highlights and shadows! <br /><br />The final job for this overall area was to paint the two entropy cannons. These were painted as sub-assemblies and provided a nice little sub-project. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-iHBxjFrPqazKeNjf-3hQ6ObxGZK1-eG4eILN3fuh_OAQJ1GNttThpTTW_c2_NnG2Q7g8-KEpeKRvQF5jl7ZkUGuRDM9BpaBukj6QotZr4xbTxLcHUJY0V1j38Tww0ETIh8tQ1PPLSZ4KCRqNoKhsq3-2Vtx4dQ9ixBDgl21UanQc3SZtWKK5Bf6oQ/s900/entropy%20cannon.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-iHBxjFrPqazKeNjf-3hQ6ObxGZK1-eG4eILN3fuh_OAQJ1GNttThpTTW_c2_NnG2Q7g8-KEpeKRvQF5jl7ZkUGuRDM9BpaBukj6QotZr4xbTxLcHUJY0V1j38Tww0ETIh8tQ1PPLSZ4KCRqNoKhsq3-2Vtx4dQ9ixBDgl21UanQc3SZtWKK5Bf6oQ/w400-h400/entropy%20cannon.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvys4rA4v-zLj9Hzh4KYVw_TUqr50IfFtZUHKlY3HWnf5C9aJJnLiCFF2qRfyFg1uCXDhdVWC4PKGPzV3XzlpkD5z1aV6jhE-evbejRb1gNvYzWFWWIejbn5rTeEE6rdaU-pT7NPU-PrLcIl5nzmpooaCjHj3MEF5Gb70V33TtOlPniNWKcYsq0QSHyQ/s900/entropy%20cannon2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvys4rA4v-zLj9Hzh4KYVw_TUqr50IfFtZUHKlY3HWnf5C9aJJnLiCFF2qRfyFg1uCXDhdVWC4PKGPzV3XzlpkD5z1aV6jhE-evbejRb1gNvYzWFWWIejbn5rTeEE6rdaU-pT7NPU-PrLcIl5nzmpooaCjHj3MEF5Gb70V33TtOlPniNWKcYsq0QSHyQ/w400-h400/entropy%20cannon2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dfIXnk1hJ-hu22YtwlYJbl2DZOY75joJDyDs5ob8kP3LwoyuyYcE9XX__mTmT2qptRSND4iF-HLQ2JN7eZajYhSCrlPC-cwc8ShUQ-iSjmwGQBxLzMMdsncZDtaZjsy1JukPY4CfhfNolpB13uuffdeqUyf5KVdSG759pmmTNoKZAJzoaE4lZv6QyQ/s900/entropy%20cannon3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dfIXnk1hJ-hu22YtwlYJbl2DZOY75joJDyDs5ob8kP3LwoyuyYcE9XX__mTmT2qptRSND4iF-HLQ2JN7eZajYhSCrlPC-cwc8ShUQ-iSjmwGQBxLzMMdsncZDtaZjsy1JukPY4CfhfNolpB13uuffdeqUyf5KVdSG759pmmTNoKZAJzoaE4lZv6QyQ/w400-h400/entropy%20cannon3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br />The sides of the tank were the last significant areas of the tank to be painted. <br /><br />The remaining work consists mostly of finishing things off and bringing together previously painted sub-assemblies. <br /></p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-74690869320950301112022-09-29T17:04:00.002+01:002022-10-01T08:54:46.897+01:00Project P30 - Part 15.<h3 style="text-align: left;"> It's done!!!</h3><p>It’s been an intense few months of preparation and painting but I’ve finished my Daemon Engine in time for Golden Demon UK 2022, which is now upon us! I’m very proud of how this project has turned out because I’ve done the very best I can. It has been a brilliant experience but it’s now out of my hands and into the GD cabinet for judging. Fingers crossed! <br /><br />So it’s time to reveal the finished Tank in its entirety. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEOB7sq7gD203P-C_NxCPtTiSj6JoL9aGhtKLX0HWSiZjzJ-vxAZooYM8hAJ41AOvS4-M7JSm9Vly_Hqg5BN5QS01TCETjzck29COEpGa1kz1fDx800Kj79_JxWiHjKB2nfzgqQHZ9kG4-jDN4FcbvNaEcAPgN2ZyBol0ciHDEdFBmL5zhUKnzU8mO7g/s2000/Finished%20Tank%20small%201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEOB7sq7gD203P-C_NxCPtTiSj6JoL9aGhtKLX0HWSiZjzJ-vxAZooYM8hAJ41AOvS4-M7JSm9Vly_Hqg5BN5QS01TCETjzck29COEpGa1kz1fDx800Kj79_JxWiHjKB2nfzgqQHZ9kG4-jDN4FcbvNaEcAPgN2ZyBol0ciHDEdFBmL5zhUKnzU8mO7g/w300-h400/Finished%20Tank%20small%201.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQIb6Xd2W9pgDkt_AptP85SncMidq8tpbXIx-rZWhA9YKUS5v0BKUCL1ZwcCsE3le-p4PbF1A0Gc30RYyzTuKZ5nP6ErU90pkkehNiF1-uWmP1VhRkl2tGaoKIgfnumLGbhE95jm-h8jlZfzvliAj6o99635w9LEA6YkoUZIqTmD2rPaEMs7pOIBpXyw/s2000/Finished%20Tank%20small%202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQIb6Xd2W9pgDkt_AptP85SncMidq8tpbXIx-rZWhA9YKUS5v0BKUCL1ZwcCsE3le-p4PbF1A0Gc30RYyzTuKZ5nP6ErU90pkkehNiF1-uWmP1VhRkl2tGaoKIgfnumLGbhE95jm-h8jlZfzvliAj6o99635w9LEA6YkoUZIqTmD2rPaEMs7pOIBpXyw/w300-h400/Finished%20Tank%20small%202.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRGmSpCJD80FZlGNcTmvfxnMz-pVAD_k0TPuxxL9bSwcSPGGVXgLyX1LY0FR43IgXYQs8rMGmwDoPSWt48cNc5EYUJtObmoc5jMf-efH42bhDaV46mExoX7FuU_jhvnzEbihBJHaVR20PCg8S3ga7BtEU_bccYupWWdIW5rXYApT03b4BcidjbY8_B0w/s2000/Finished%20Tank%20small%203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRGmSpCJD80FZlGNcTmvfxnMz-pVAD_k0TPuxxL9bSwcSPGGVXgLyX1LY0FR43IgXYQs8rMGmwDoPSWt48cNc5EYUJtObmoc5jMf-efH42bhDaV46mExoX7FuU_jhvnzEbihBJHaVR20PCg8S3ga7BtEU_bccYupWWdIW5rXYApT03b4BcidjbY8_B0w/w300-h400/Finished%20Tank%20small%203.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgtLtqxeSyQ1VTLhVDcvTlMTwzKlVZ5ouosqj2oEouAKF2EConhvEozcwB2wIlvlP6kqlsf5bOnsFd7l5E9WNA8NH--LKzqU_cDaDbzBfXLixLE429TJOh4bP0aL6iscRz7z6p0DwJXnVL_i4SEWQVN1oOmQ5s-PaVD3mn2nyZU_fQoEx9vzWC32O7vg/s2000/Finished%20Tank%20small%204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgtLtqxeSyQ1VTLhVDcvTlMTwzKlVZ5ouosqj2oEouAKF2EConhvEozcwB2wIlvlP6kqlsf5bOnsFd7l5E9WNA8NH--LKzqU_cDaDbzBfXLixLE429TJOh4bP0aL6iscRz7z6p0DwJXnVL_i4SEWQVN1oOmQ5s-PaVD3mn2nyZU_fQoEx9vzWC32O7vg/w300-h400/Finished%20Tank%20small%204.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhts_eXhwg-UyMWg_tO9BJcVDcPRSZRi-dL9PaL_wVUEovRuN8Q8xsN8qQiuBEDgxhZnzdVkQmLz8oNtdsQDkpxpBGmlIXs7ehmr0gew3_zAlexGEqmoV9Lkl-4R_pimdJdp8FU5jVIBwhXY2iAJDx0rqlk_W19-RIG2HdWu_fy2lR1nBMW8tNCzdRx8w/s2000/Finished%20Tank%20small%205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhts_eXhwg-UyMWg_tO9BJcVDcPRSZRi-dL9PaL_wVUEovRuN8Q8xsN8qQiuBEDgxhZnzdVkQmLz8oNtdsQDkpxpBGmlIXs7ehmr0gew3_zAlexGEqmoV9Lkl-4R_pimdJdp8FU5jVIBwhXY2iAJDx0rqlk_W19-RIG2HdWu_fy2lR1nBMW8tNCzdRx8w/w300-h400/Finished%20Tank%20small%205.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb246ErNZZSYvMNQ6rbTEipFxb4sbP3kFrM456OAz07B-4teNDlTNn9pg2eiFxqzKknLJzOA-emSjUZAiZK9oP7b91Z3QHniZOj0c3rS6C4EuWgQ9mJwTANbVgQXb1I7fTs0yv8S1U_qQm7sj43qq6IlzDZbSTxl6KJulDvI5H294lqtqZhwVNA6DOug/s2000/Finished%20Tank%20small%206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb246ErNZZSYvMNQ6rbTEipFxb4sbP3kFrM456OAz07B-4teNDlTNn9pg2eiFxqzKknLJzOA-emSjUZAiZK9oP7b91Z3QHniZOj0c3rS6C4EuWgQ9mJwTANbVgQXb1I7fTs0yv8S1U_qQm7sj43qq6IlzDZbSTxl6KJulDvI5H294lqtqZhwVNA6DOug/w300-h400/Finished%20Tank%20small%206.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1KN3gwo7aRE2usWpu30vgw-dXs0ZP26zfGNLjLsDe_5OBKG6Woq99KxHvIS1A_wk-c5TFFfNM05gsY97e5v_rSjoq3uldUP1UScX8e4jl97w6pOK3Y4RgB0oGRE0rpbTad1ZQe8aDrwmD51IlaOG-Ozp9ltfp23XDgA7xukobYx7cv-J7C-VUX3zig/s2000/Finished%20Tank%20small%207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1KN3gwo7aRE2usWpu30vgw-dXs0ZP26zfGNLjLsDe_5OBKG6Woq99KxHvIS1A_wk-c5TFFfNM05gsY97e5v_rSjoq3uldUP1UScX8e4jl97w6pOK3Y4RgB0oGRE0rpbTad1ZQe8aDrwmD51IlaOG-Ozp9ltfp23XDgA7xukobYx7cv-J7C-VUX3zig/w300-h400/Finished%20Tank%20small%207.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>My planned pre-GD blog updates fell by the wayside. Once I’m back home and the GD dust has settled, I will upload a series of posts detailing the stages of this project to its completion. </p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-71628391740231935842022-03-29T19:02:00.000+01:002022-03-29T19:02:23.961+01:00Project P30 - Part 14.<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHKfNIy17L8Ly-ywnxNT49VFRTBMJ9haN-k_8hik_Ujj5u1ip2-bIKLutY7Bc6PCBBuqOuiIKECxAyvPJgU404XBRnjSunxeQWSVmK8JcmUeCS8JVFD8R7wuI22gGg73luw3XIUKrXaQVsnnwp_fV5kGvZfV8iQ_hTDdmc4o12Yuy5js_Kg1GyWE4uQ/s900/P30%20paint14b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHKfNIy17L8Ly-ywnxNT49VFRTBMJ9haN-k_8hik_Ujj5u1ip2-bIKLutY7Bc6PCBBuqOuiIKECxAyvPJgU404XBRnjSunxeQWSVmK8JcmUeCS8JVFD8R7wuI22gGg73luw3XIUKrXaQVsnnwp_fV5kGvZfV8iQ_hTDdmc4o12Yuy5js_Kg1GyWE4uQ/w400-h400/P30%20paint14b.jpg" width="400" /></a></p><p>So just when I though I’d be getting back into the swing of things, with a regular painting schedule, life had other ideas! We’d been planning some long-overdue house renovations (by long I mean 20 years!) and had scheduled them in for 2022. However the chance came to get the work done earlier and we took it. As a result our home was in complete upheaval, from October until mid-January, and there was no way on earth I could do any painting. Stressful as the disruption was it’s been great to finally get our bathroom and kitchen sorted and things are now getting back to normal, whatever that is. <br /><br />The enforced hiatus has given me the opportunity to take stock and realise that I’ve undergone a big shift in attitude towards this project. Up until now I’ve been very focussed on getting the paint scheme for my Daemon Engine up and running. It’s been a sign of my uncertainty that I’ve concentrated on establishing the colours, textures, overall contrast and direction for the scheme but haven’t really looked beyond that. <br /><br />Over the last month that has changed and I quite suddenly realised that I’ve now painted the bulk (no pun intended) of the flesh on this model. I have no firm idea of how long it will actually take to complete, but it feels like I’ve reached a sort of halfway point in the painting! I’m well aware that much of what remains to be done features fiddly mechanical details but I’ve most definitely moved forward into a new phase of the project. <br /><br />When I started work on this project, back in February 2019, it was with the final model very much in mind. But as I’ve progressed, and especially since I’ve started painting, my thinking became more wrapped up with the process rather than the end goal. I think this was necessary because I needed to make a lot of decisions about what I was actually going to do with my scheme, but it did overwhelm my thinking. <br /><br />With some major decisions made (I’m sure there are many more to come!) and considerable progress under my belt, I can now see my way ahead. So much so that I’ve started to work on a base for this model. The end of the project may be some way off but I think it’s a good time to start planning for it. The overall composition of this model and its base will make or break this project so there is no room for a last minute solution! I have plenty of time for planning and preparing a base and I fully intend to use it. <br /><br />My thoughts on basing the model have greatly evolved over time. I’d thought of something quite large and elaborate, inspired by the type of basing you often see for historical tank kits. Thankfully I saw sense as that would have taken the project into diorama territory. What I now intend is to base the tank as though it were, and in many ways it is, a character model. <br /><br />I’m not going to say too much about my basing plans until later in the project. But I must say a huge ‘thank you’ to Byron Orde who, through the course of a general discussion about basing, helped me to clarify my ideas. However, Byron went above and beyond that with some significant practical help towards getting this model onto the right base. I don’t like to blow my own trumpet but, with the help I’ve had from Byron, and if I can pull off all my plans, it’s going to be epic! <br /><br />But all of that is in the future and for the moment I need to crack on with painting. I will go into more detail in my next posting but for the time being I will bring things up-to-date with a summary. <br /><br />Back in October I painted the large horns on the Daemon’s head. This was straightforward but very fiddly. I then moved onto the mechanical left hand and arm. I’d made a good start on these when everything ground to a halt. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbp7uK9OGBdEwvGhAKxHsBlHVJ3nUOVTr8Kp-IW7DK7zKXzoDyndk81huzotyp-7-tzKvKSe_hdU5EnrxRgE94n8v0vSt2qmSwn1MeZ6xAVgtnbTeHA2Is7AgtGL5i8BIMhoch9YwJg5xxdddtQEQxnZR302CrdQ35RZdUKT0PsQ2CTU11yTaoF-23Ig/s900/P30%20paint14a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbp7uK9OGBdEwvGhAKxHsBlHVJ3nUOVTr8Kp-IW7DK7zKXzoDyndk81huzotyp-7-tzKvKSe_hdU5EnrxRgE94n8v0vSt2qmSwn1MeZ6xAVgtnbTeHA2Is7AgtGL5i8BIMhoch9YwJg5xxdddtQEQxnZR302CrdQ35RZdUKT0PsQ2CTU11yTaoF-23Ig/w400-h400/P30%20paint14a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>At the end of February I was able to pick up my brushes again but decided not to go straight back to the hand. I decided to paint a sub-assembly to help me get back into the swing of things. For this I chose to paint the large chimney which I first had to detach from the model! This was not a fun job but well worth the bother as the chimney was much easier to paint as a separate element. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6E2mTIV7a9ZaYMSgR4DPNOYYCGHTUrr9fk_vObB5pVbNCpZ_XXuupD3w9lRwz_O8yikkeEArxnFK02PXH9Gdlfg9yIzLCTkZkRXfVC5fpU0K8eYJu7j586m07_wUb9xOB_aS1djmLbT_AoP7rJD1aGP0aufB-LbeFBXiwW8jwzqGJKNUkVhm2hOUDZg/s900/P30%20paint14g.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6E2mTIV7a9ZaYMSgR4DPNOYYCGHTUrr9fk_vObB5pVbNCpZ_XXuupD3w9lRwz_O8yikkeEArxnFK02PXH9Gdlfg9yIzLCTkZkRXfVC5fpU0K8eYJu7j586m07_wUb9xOB_aS1djmLbT_AoP7rJD1aGP0aufB-LbeFBXiwW8jwzqGJKNUkVhm2hOUDZg/w400-h400/P30%20paint14g.jpg" width="400" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjastEo8Vpxj5uw4JoW4nviHZts-3Dp-MEAe08EXrMIaRBLgF7aVBEA_ijpVW8zKhl7y3CY70XEotgm0-RUujGucOTb-_r61t4-b8zwOHKoT6deqdkf1_QtVY-_9bS2zecNWVyxwTKacAOLTfDDl9aDz0g_UNQfra28I_fn5o3Gf9l8OtElvHIPjRwchQ/s900/P30%20paint14f.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjastEo8Vpxj5uw4JoW4nviHZts-3Dp-MEAe08EXrMIaRBLgF7aVBEA_ijpVW8zKhl7y3CY70XEotgm0-RUujGucOTb-_r61t4-b8zwOHKoT6deqdkf1_QtVY-_9bS2zecNWVyxwTKacAOLTfDDl9aDz0g_UNQfra28I_fn5o3Gf9l8OtElvHIPjRwchQ/w400-h400/P30%20paint14f.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p>With the chimney painted, I’ve now returned to painting the mechanical hand and arm. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHyzpqaHkdUR7hOJIyshsCOzWicQzeZmrP-RrUh5IQ9J9wDyFV7YjVf6DbKf8Oc5i9cFXs65gJKa1JBNckfQLh2YzJd5hlE3obRccbC9U_Y0AF62-y_P3WroOkU6qYXP5rGud7zO4KduHw4Xp9fNy-p9oHMuxiQfWcAw7XHU5seohm6ORl1MKg6_1Lw/s900/P30%20paint14d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHyzpqaHkdUR7hOJIyshsCOzWicQzeZmrP-RrUh5IQ9J9wDyFV7YjVf6DbKf8Oc5i9cFXs65gJKa1JBNckfQLh2YzJd5hlE3obRccbC9U_Y0AF62-y_P3WroOkU6qYXP5rGud7zO4KduHw4Xp9fNy-p9oHMuxiQfWcAw7XHU5seohm6ORl1MKg6_1Lw/w400-h400/P30%20paint14d.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoe90HwB5fLHd71hyFepEpADOHO5-RC_xS4spf27MtMA76G1unQv8B2knD3JaIbjMRZ1fcGwA5KgeK4a0dOa-uUIGF0r4apioDljleHFb66M0at3jTF3Li459MnuZ9XV6O-uqOZpypQIU3OOKLlxg6Zd17d16m_ZGoILpdFtyDLuI8AvcD2fUzf5HuQ/s900/P30%20paint14c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoe90HwB5fLHd71hyFepEpADOHO5-RC_xS4spf27MtMA76G1unQv8B2knD3JaIbjMRZ1fcGwA5KgeK4a0dOa-uUIGF0r4apioDljleHFb66M0at3jTF3Li459MnuZ9XV6O-uqOZpypQIU3OOKLlxg6Zd17d16m_ZGoILpdFtyDLuI8AvcD2fUzf5HuQ/w400-h400/P30%20paint14c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-73897182815262993332021-10-02T14:36:00.001+01:002021-10-02T14:36:22.800+01:00Project P30 - Part 13.<div><h1 style="text-align: left;">Ding Dong! </h1><br />I’m back! Not that I’ve been away as such but I decided to take a bit of a break from painting my Daemon Engine. Things had gone very well, and I’d made excellent progress, but I felt that I was beginning to get a bit too relaxed with the project. To do my best work I need to keep on my toes and I think I was getting a bit complacent. The break in painting has given me the opportunity to reset and refresh the feeling of a challenge. </div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6jEvfoJHqrUPBUD1ivhUEOvhyphenhyphen4liYbh6mB07qSSZd5MetHIChrwAj1zI7VOEGOIpIsXjXlQc6mQAMoPE6puumGlKwtYBBLfTr4D5Hbh2sra-IYcsFomrwbnqr61deSbT7JbqNH8h_kDYE/s900/Bell2a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6jEvfoJHqrUPBUD1ivhUEOvhyphenhyphen4liYbh6mB07qSSZd5MetHIChrwAj1zI7VOEGOIpIsXjXlQc6mQAMoPE6puumGlKwtYBBLfTr4D5Hbh2sra-IYcsFomrwbnqr61deSbT7JbqNH8h_kDYE/w400-h400/Bell2a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />To get re-started I decided to paint the bell, which I’d been keeping back for just such an occasion. The bell was perfect to paint as a sub-assembly and, as it features distinct areas of flesh and metal, was also perfect to help me get back up to speed with the colour palette and techniques I’m using on this model. <br /><br />Although this model will feature a variety of non-metallic metal (NMM) effects the majority of my metal will be painted in bronze tones. Often used for bells, cannon and in ancient armour, bronze seemed like the perfect choice for a model that features all of these. It also works very well with my overall colour palette not least because of the opportunity it gives me to use cool green hues in the verdigris effects. <br /><br />As with all metals the colour of bronze, an alloy of copper and tin, will vary depending upon it’s exact composition, age and the conditions it’s been exposed to. Broadly speaking, bronze is a warm metallic hue along the lines of gold or brass; but slightly darker and browner than either, and less ‘orange’ than copper. In reality the colour bronze includes a wide range of tones and hues and can be achieved in many different ways. </div><div> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJaZGrjBj12YNm9fgi_oUkrGn2tCV0QJPmT0mnPI7HRaeNhGEw1pbtXejG0bHYIKYNie4g24jcQy3HiU4xKftSeycqeNcMzFWPqEC3d4SkTCDHp46Bu0PSAELK2qdA_mkoJSPxorUfeAdq/s900/bronze.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJaZGrjBj12YNm9fgi_oUkrGn2tCV0QJPmT0mnPI7HRaeNhGEw1pbtXejG0bHYIKYNie4g24jcQy3HiU4xKftSeycqeNcMzFWPqEC3d4SkTCDHp46Bu0PSAELK2qdA_mkoJSPxorUfeAdq/w400-h400/bronze.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><div><br />I’d taken this into consideration when I created my initial colour palette but, as I‘ve now spent some time working with those colours, I decided to make some additions. The new colours are Balor Brown and Mournfang Brown both from Games Workshop and Ice Yellow from Vallejo Model Colour. The introduction of these colours has enabled me to create some warmer hues than my initial colour choices allowed. </div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxqptanSN9fh5ic-Merrvrzr9xuFy2I0zKyw_YyeMsHKBBD-YLW-1XP9zOjWFuvyjxvmpT_xDoN5ftwzQTTC-25h959B6xS7BOqsbAdVaDTz9Jj2E-BM8qWfuJw62wHxmrrwb6UxhE3Tb/s900/bronze+palette.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="900" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxqptanSN9fh5ic-Merrvrzr9xuFy2I0zKyw_YyeMsHKBBD-YLW-1XP9zOjWFuvyjxvmpT_xDoN5ftwzQTTC-25h959B6xS7BOqsbAdVaDTz9Jj2E-BM8qWfuJw62wHxmrrwb6UxhE3Tb/w400-h254/bronze+palette.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />So far I’ve painted two distinct areas of bronze on my model: the back plate (including the shoulder) and the bell. Although both areas use colours from the same overall palette they have been treated quite differently. </div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">The back plate. </h3><br /><div>This is the single largest area of bronze on the model and much of it is in shadow. I decided that a warmer more saturated bronze would work best here, as it would have a strong contrast with the green hues in the adjacent areas of flesh and verdigris. In addition, a warmer and more saturated shadow colour gives more interest to the back of the model. <br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI2Y4ddZVvsIvP7Uk7HB9H9NRGhS1SrKzVs90xj8JJ6zvFkdy90OyM5-SM-MKEyEf7nzDrVyF-UvVwwJZkd37BaW72tB4H5un6RqNa7iwkDSFYLKScQ80G95ELb1haG5PXlnZ-AUZ9iWrw/s900/Bronze2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI2Y4ddZVvsIvP7Uk7HB9H9NRGhS1SrKzVs90xj8JJ6zvFkdy90OyM5-SM-MKEyEf7nzDrVyF-UvVwwJZkd37BaW72tB4H5un6RqNa7iwkDSFYLKScQ80G95ELb1haG5PXlnZ-AUZ9iWrw/w400-h400/Bronze2b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ1FuT2zKsSlMin4SMdngT-D7WKgebzTdNfmzZPivuoQsV2osleXKnXrqb0xVLL6rn5-FMF1opwTKk4gnuQv30hh4v7-dkzCI8X3OxuvEw7_V4Y-XyGGw3LyaOUOgL-D2H5wLVuoL0y_UU/s900/Bronze2a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ1FuT2zKsSlMin4SMdngT-D7WKgebzTdNfmzZPivuoQsV2osleXKnXrqb0xVLL6rn5-FMF1opwTKk4gnuQv30hh4v7-dkzCI8X3OxuvEw7_V4Y-XyGGw3LyaOUOgL-D2H5wLVuoL0y_UU/w400-h400/Bronze2a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Base/shadows. </h4><br /></div><div>The base colour for this area is Rhinox Hide mixed with Boreal green and Black Leather. The additions serve to darken the Rhinox Hide. <br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Mid-tones. </h4><br /></div><div>I lightened the base colour with the addition of Mournfang Brown. As I moved into the mid-tones I increased the amount of the Mournfang and gradually began to add Balor Brown to my mix. The use of Mournfang Brown and Balor Brown give warmth and saturation to the final result. <br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Highlights. </h4><br /></div><div>As my colours go into the highlights, I introduced a mix of Balor Brown and Ice Yellow moving to pure ice yellow. The final highlights are Ice Yellow with a little white added. </div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8oIUbKiLvFWF-VkKQWiIKs9wR7QTlX1eF-z9KDo7ChU6MvMQE_0JDGbn7XTrg5vXcoq22RhJZiEORvUhTQO-fXwyUtmDp0GMBjHo3EJ_O3uXRGAI80rTFfnJ5rdSAjRZDEYKsNINGr14A/s900/Bronze2c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8oIUbKiLvFWF-VkKQWiIKs9wR7QTlX1eF-z9KDo7ChU6MvMQE_0JDGbn7XTrg5vXcoq22RhJZiEORvUhTQO-fXwyUtmDp0GMBjHo3EJ_O3uXRGAI80rTFfnJ5rdSAjRZDEYKsNINGr14A/w400-h400/Bronze2c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />The use of Ice Yellow was a little risky as my global highlight colour is Flayed One Flesh and the introduction of a new highlight colour could cause a colour clash with previously painted areas. However, Ice yellow has, compared to Flayed One Flesh, a cooler more saturated yellow hue that works very well for bronze. <br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h3 style="text-align: left;">The bell. </h3><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JWPUmjiWGYtC6Dzl_rm4A0-DEZgi4q6PePwk740AvxF4eknF_m_WBPrqlQEsU_pbSJQQMFNjAMYyzKThjVKbd1nxH3JqjF0DnP0F8FEcD6zE9cVnZMuHP4aUXjmWk0pzZ6H0omDu9Clj/s900/Bell1b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JWPUmjiWGYtC6Dzl_rm4A0-DEZgi4q6PePwk740AvxF4eknF_m_WBPrqlQEsU_pbSJQQMFNjAMYyzKThjVKbd1nxH3JqjF0DnP0F8FEcD6zE9cVnZMuHP4aUXjmWk0pzZ6H0omDu9Clj/w400-h400/Bell1b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg53nW-XDoh6_bRSk330O_sR3hADQ-KNBigFF7oGW-I9jmAMELxu95GZd5R0GqowL9ECkqBzVozPrjuqZtqJNWu1UG8Itd3fHfO3o5cxsRRyZmuGnycrJDVKBwg5he0wROH3U0EB-doFz1S/s900/Bell1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg53nW-XDoh6_bRSk330O_sR3hADQ-KNBigFF7oGW-I9jmAMELxu95GZd5R0GqowL9ECkqBzVozPrjuqZtqJNWu1UG8Itd3fHfO3o5cxsRRyZmuGnycrJDVKBwg5he0wROH3U0EB-doFz1S/w400-h400/Bell1a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Base/shadows </h4><br /></div><div>The base colour for the bell is a mix of Rhinox Hide, Boreal green and Black Leather. These are the same colours as on the back plate but there is less Rhinox Hide and more Boreal green and Black Leather in this mix. The resulting colour is darker, cooler and more desaturated. <br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Mid-tones </h4><br /></div><div>The biggest difference between the two bronze areas lies in the mid-tones. For the bell I have only used Balor Brown. This is mixed with the base colour in increasing amounts as the colour lightens. However, I have not used any pure Balor Brown on the bell. <br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Highlights. </h4><br /></div><div>As my colours have moved into the highlights, I’ve added Ice yellow to the Balor Brown/base colour mix. As with the back plate my highlights shift through pure Ice Yellow to an Ice Yellow/white mix. </div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovOX-QNT0LiG2-YVWYitrdzLsunJ3EiE0V-c6cdsdK5lDaNLFiSs1pcjELzgUrfD0IDqTlLiilPUp7aQA3qmSrJyW4S-Yz17mis1Cj6Rpxbi2ydK21MBUNq0ShwzE-_XGHikQpOi-QiA6/s900/Bell2b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovOX-QNT0LiG2-YVWYitrdzLsunJ3EiE0V-c6cdsdK5lDaNLFiSs1pcjELzgUrfD0IDqTlLiilPUp7aQA3qmSrJyW4S-Yz17mis1Cj6Rpxbi2ydK21MBUNq0ShwzE-_XGHikQpOi-QiA6/w400-h400/Bell2b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUDdAwRwf9RrQ_tmKomX9lfxs0PKSr3ab8Hae-SB3-HTgtebHJWKBMb5k_o0r4cT32GNEoMamjvV3CqG8Xpb57H_lsWHGpHJkC0a8QXhGtxVRoogicjEFXYyProZh87VmkET9IXJTLod6/s900/Bell2c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUDdAwRwf9RrQ_tmKomX9lfxs0PKSr3ab8Hae-SB3-HTgtebHJWKBMb5k_o0r4cT32GNEoMamjvV3CqG8Xpb57H_lsWHGpHJkC0a8QXhGtxVRoogicjEFXYyProZh87VmkET9IXJTLod6/w400-h400/Bell2c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />The final result for the bell is a bronze colour that is cooler, more desaturated and with shadows that are more blackened than the back plate. <br /><br />The base/shadow mix of Rhinox Hide, Boreal green and Black Leather that I’m using on this model is one that I’ve often used before due to it’s flexibility. The mix gives a surprisingly dark result that I like to think of as ‘almost black’ and I can easily shift the temperature and saturation of this colour by altering the mix. </div><div> </div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJEncL3uy4f84cBPHmBV2r-D1y90Ip9R04QAxwFUjhggcmQRbBorbVZJM14P8EnyNaCz7OJxy2tF3yKAUhg53ydKiOtNb9M1I5u_zz8WGl19hGWXeIwlKai2NwJyTTGtLg-DQB7xvl_Tu/s900/nearly+black.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJEncL3uy4f84cBPHmBV2r-D1y90Ip9R04QAxwFUjhggcmQRbBorbVZJM14P8EnyNaCz7OJxy2tF3yKAUhg53ydKiOtNb9M1I5u_zz8WGl19hGWXeIwlKai2NwJyTTGtLg-DQB7xvl_Tu/w400-h400/nearly+black.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A page from my notebook comparing my <br />'almost black' Black Leather/Boreal Green mix with Black<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />I’ll be adding more areas of bronze as my paint scheme progresses and I’m looking forward to creating more variations of this colour. <br /><br />After painting the bell I turned my attention to the hand holding it; and what I thought would be relatively simple proved to be quite a challenge. As I said earlier part of my reason for painting the bell was to help me to get back up to speed with the colour palette. And it’s a good thing too. I forgot that my base colour for the flesh tones was a mix of two parts Rakarth Flesh with one part each of Bugman’s Glow and Sahara Yellow. Instead I used only Rakarth Flesh and it made a massive difference! The flesh tones were all far too cool and I had to glaze a lot of warm tones over this to balance things out. I’m now happy with the hand although I will almost certainly adjust it a little more once I glue it into place on the model. </div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UGQ7NaYXMp6YNAEdFPe321o1c0f9Hp52rN1pw89sV2d8C-XRz5dWWeWBOcCJ3oA5mkF4dnwzCkGGPO6xsYip465nfcFTWjgrVkfG_9WizGcW4_-IIFZDy0D3nxAjT211nPEqdqBWqGUj/s900/Bell2d.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UGQ7NaYXMp6YNAEdFPe321o1c0f9Hp52rN1pw89sV2d8C-XRz5dWWeWBOcCJ3oA5mkF4dnwzCkGGPO6xsYip465nfcFTWjgrVkfG_9WizGcW4_-IIFZDy0D3nxAjT211nPEqdqBWqGUj/w400-h400/Bell2d.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />As I’ve said before with this model nothing is finished until it’s all finished! <br /><br /></div><br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-22567044093054334592021-07-03T13:29:00.000+01:002021-07-03T13:29:58.442+01:00Project P30 - Part 12<p>It’s time for a long overdue update! An interruption in my posting usually means that, for one reason or another, I’ve not been painting but that’s not the case this time! I’ve been happily painting away to a regular schedule and making steady progress. Quite simply when faced with a choice between painting and writing about painting I’ve opted for the former. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxvz1x6vNNw5xFtOjEkvqPyBRyQBSnR9-IdRL-D2nBL6-J0R5vfO3HZ8dtf5g79M3efXeLLzJ4y-4mI3aisy0dE5UpA6WOohSF8HgJtbelmhBBgJJJf9CorKXH8tDdNXtnVVekf4As_-sv/s900/tank+prt12h.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxvz1x6vNNw5xFtOjEkvqPyBRyQBSnR9-IdRL-D2nBL6-J0R5vfO3HZ8dtf5g79M3efXeLLzJ4y-4mI3aisy0dE5UpA6WOohSF8HgJtbelmhBBgJJJf9CorKXH8tDdNXtnVVekf4As_-sv/w400-h400/tank+prt12h.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p>I’ve already written about the physical challenges presented by this model and they haven’t lessened. However I’ve now become used to handling and painting a model of this size and I’m coping quite well with this aspect of the project. I think the greatest challenges remain the psychological ones! The scale and level of expectation for this project, both from others, and myself are through the roof. <br /><br />However, in spite, or perhaps because, of these challenges I'm very happy with how my Tank is going at the moment! I've had so many ideas and options to consider that the project’s overall direction has been a bit open-ended. As I said in my last post, I've had to editing my ideas as I go. That’s involved making as many choices about what I’m not going to do as to what I am going to do! Because of this my vision for the paint scheme has become much clearer over the last month or so. <br /><br />My experience of this project is unlike anything I’ve had since I returned to painting. I regularly feel that I’ve bitten off more than I can chew and this strongly reminds me of the years when I was first learning my craft! Although I have a wealth of experience to call on, I can’t take it for granted that I will succeed. This is because this work is truly challenging me and I’m having to work my very hardest to resolve every aspect of this project. All of this can only be a good thing and so far I’m loving (almost) every minute of it. I’m getting more satisfaction from my hobby than I’ve had for some time! <br /><br />In my last post I’d just finished painting the arms. The next area I turned to was the top of the model where the neck, back and shoulders meet. This proved to be a far more complex job than I’d anticipated! This part of the model is a major junction between other areas and involves transitions between different forms, textures, tones and hues. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvvDlQ_3o7qFsl4QjoMKMfuGTQ5gfLQfcKSbmdIhdzVio2v6_dD8ziKLWfLlrNstfxwRgPFexnUaYGHgHOXM6NQ42pNV24rlsintFPoq6TL_guC62WahYUMxn-mSFiL0-dqXiYr7nn_jkq/s900/tank+prt12a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvvDlQ_3o7qFsl4QjoMKMfuGTQ5gfLQfcKSbmdIhdzVio2v6_dD8ziKLWfLlrNstfxwRgPFexnUaYGHgHOXM6NQ42pNV24rlsintFPoq6TL_guC62WahYUMxn-mSFiL0-dqXiYr7nn_jkq/w400-h400/tank+prt12a.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p>I’d initially considered painting the back, neck and shoulders with a dark green to create a counter shading effect similar to that on my plague bearers. I’ve retained an element of this but less pronounced than in my initial plans. My Tank is painted as though the light is hitting it from the top left. Broadly speaking there is a light (left) and a shade (right) side to the model. The upper back features the most obvious transition between them. In addition to the tonal transitions the hues on the shade side are cooler than those on the light side. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84mLI-17GNz3YHxxEbMvp0lFNwqm3KQ8874bPF7a7or2nJjs-f1N-p1eWjiH8wA-SWnZHCGPNhlaReF16HUZiuZjINIWk0E1iBVjFiXq8KahJUTghsR8XIT-EeHjMDibBvzhSA_0WbSO7/s900/tank+prt12b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84mLI-17GNz3YHxxEbMvp0lFNwqm3KQ8874bPF7a7or2nJjs-f1N-p1eWjiH8wA-SWnZHCGPNhlaReF16HUZiuZjINIWk0E1iBVjFiXq8KahJUTghsR8XIT-EeHjMDibBvzhSA_0WbSO7/w400-h400/tank+prt12b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br />Figuring out these transitions took a lot of going back and forth to adjust and balance all the factors but it was well worth the effort. With this area painted the separate areas I’d worked on previously are now connected and the paint scheme feels more unified and consistent. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3gS2l3eGsWJTQo8Yd3FuYmcD8w649y5Q_8J_CQavG7re1T2NUblZ_faKj2uvANKFcwUIKACd02hv5fpDzg5yp98AJiIxZLtpXXV_7ChEXwciztGHui4St7rnqOzL-UGuNADA8-nNL_tA-/s900/tank+prt12g.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3gS2l3eGsWJTQo8Yd3FuYmcD8w649y5Q_8J_CQavG7re1T2NUblZ_faKj2uvANKFcwUIKACd02hv5fpDzg5yp98AJiIxZLtpXXV_7ChEXwciztGHui4St7rnqOzL-UGuNADA8-nNL_tA-/w400-h400/tank+prt12g.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx_Fl8-hyRvVuPNZTEMy4pkWh3lXGSfDssc7A5RBeXNV4t2hk1r5WOybOBkWk9Ue2C9ap-pqXWzTbBEtze8zZQhqe96Y9bo1aUMAZ9z8Bky6hwJfpweW7ZJKNZyvw9i36FbRus_gvJu9dX/s900/tank+prt12f.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx_Fl8-hyRvVuPNZTEMy4pkWh3lXGSfDssc7A5RBeXNV4t2hk1r5WOybOBkWk9Ue2C9ap-pqXWzTbBEtze8zZQhqe96Y9bo1aUMAZ9z8Bky6hwJfpweW7ZJKNZyvw9i36FbRus_gvJu9dX/w400-h400/tank+prt12f.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNzPWkVn_vMg_9id3yp3H8Mxn8O5Zu4v-svRJfSzmmd8hBjUQ6T_pIbB6g9UtgoWm0u_Hcksfa_YWaW_Q087tFRBgjcf8kBCywQ5FqtfCo0FrL2eOL6J9h3KDa7hobrRhPcC4U_uxFF8p/s900/tank+prt12e.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNzPWkVn_vMg_9id3yp3H8Mxn8O5Zu4v-svRJfSzmmd8hBjUQ6T_pIbB6g9UtgoWm0u_Hcksfa_YWaW_Q087tFRBgjcf8kBCywQ5FqtfCo0FrL2eOL6J9h3KDa7hobrRhPcC4U_uxFF8p/w400-h400/tank+prt12e.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p>In the course of resolving this part of the model, I had to go back and adjust some of my earlier work. I’ve worked more of a purple hue into many of the shadows and strengthened the yellow/green hues in the mid-tone areas of the arms. Both of these changes were made by building up a series of controlled glazes over the appropriate areas. I fully expect to make further adjustments to my earlier work as the project progresses. I don’t consider any part of the model to be finished until the entire thing is finished. <br /><br />I was then at the point where I needed to start addressing the boundaries between flesh and metal on my model. The upper area I had just painted is in contact with the large boiler/plate in the back of the model. The sides of the torso also connect with this area. When sculpting I’d decided to make a feature of this boundary and created an area of swollen bubbling flesh. </p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyNHrphictXHo6mWz3Qou3C4eaTXQXHXhIpT5a2oYKVMG_HHtX-nGWneqxGMmP32PydytuapOg0C00FZT2lpqjf-3MvMkm54hymrbluXiVEOtrFjLSiZ0fTiEmNviTYfuksWjhdetUavaR/s900/tank+prt12c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyNHrphictXHo6mWz3Qou3C4eaTXQXHXhIpT5a2oYKVMG_HHtX-nGWneqxGMmP32PydytuapOg0C00FZT2lpqjf-3MvMkm54hymrbluXiVEOtrFjLSiZ0fTiEmNviTYfuksWjhdetUavaR/w400-h400/tank+prt12c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />I’ve chosen to paint all areas of bubbling flesh on the model in warm red and flesh hues. The bubbling flesh often occurs where flesh and metal meet and I want it to have a raw and angry look as if it is trying to boil up and overwhelm the metal. <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLa_VPh4YrR9HcqXBXXngQDY4EgqmDM4eNoJqPUrN_X2twLPq5ajjIqkI3hAcuu76UkXuBDLEAPJYSY1gWbDpgq5GyhKY9ZCUltMHdO1rB9f1qanNueH2Nv_pE4KGdPQMslSfvFt5b_1X/s900/tank+prt12d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLa_VPh4YrR9HcqXBXXngQDY4EgqmDM4eNoJqPUrN_X2twLPq5ajjIqkI3hAcuu76UkXuBDLEAPJYSY1gWbDpgq5GyhKY9ZCUltMHdO1rB9f1qanNueH2Nv_pE4KGdPQMslSfvFt5b_1X/w400-h400/tank+prt12d.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Having resolved the overall flesh tones to my satisfaction it became very clear to me that I needed to begin painting the boiler/plate. To be honest I was ready for a change, as I’d been painting blubbery green flesh for weeks! <br /><p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Coming soon… </h3><br />As you can see from my pics I’ve gone well beyond the stages I’ve described in this post. I will next look at how I’ve painted NMM on the boiler/plate and how that has affected my overall colour palette. I will also describe my approach to painting corrosion on this model. <br /><br /> David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-455648347211355492021-04-29T10:13:00.000+01:002021-04-29T10:13:02.885+01:00Project P30 - Part 11<h3 style="text-align: left;">Skulls, Nurglings, Tentacles and a spot of bother with my microbeads! </h3><p style="text-align: left;">Since I started painting my Daemon Engine at the beginning of February, I’ve made very good progress because I’ve managed to paint for a few hours almost every day. In fact, at times, I’ve almost gotten ahead of myself. I went into the painting stage of this project with a plan, of course, but I had many different options. That’s because I’ve spent years thinking about this project so I have a lot of ideas for how I could paint it. Far more ideas than I can (or should) incorporate into one scheme! </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfubPCO9Pwn6bhGt8LVbGzp7hNh87ZEajup6xfezIM5urViuuWAVOCP065OGULz38gJu0_Ojt7IbtlNQZ02EjX-K49BDQVEvBkX2Q3GqPzcpWlLg8bzRswNTqDUsN6ZoxhlluH0mYrCGtS/s1086/tank.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1086" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfubPCO9Pwn6bhGt8LVbGzp7hNh87ZEajup6xfezIM5urViuuWAVOCP065OGULz38gJu0_Ojt7IbtlNQZ02EjX-K49BDQVEvBkX2Q3GqPzcpWlLg8bzRswNTqDUsN6ZoxhlluH0mYrCGtS/w400-h369/tank.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">So part of the challenge I face is to sort through all the ideas I have and edit them down to those I’m going to implement. I have to make just as many choices about what I’m not going to do as to what I am going to do. This is where my notebook and a file of reference/inspirational images have come to the rescue. They help me to keep track of my changing ideas and make sure I don’t forget any of them when the time comes to make a decision. This is an ongoing process because the more I paint the more resolved my ideas become but they can also develop in directions I’d not anticipated. <br /><br />Every now and then I need to pause, sit back and consider my work. Which is just what I hadn’t been doing so it should come as no surprise that I found myself working on a part of the model for which I had no firm plan. The back of the left arm featured the sculpted detail of three skulls, forming a Nurgle icon, set into a large open wound. Very gruesome and apparently straightforward, all I had to do was paint what was in front of me. </p><br /><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rYgLwi-VTJ2QcNIemF7Q0607En3AK20CdlDt3BTf5vP4oFX1ADOQzF_BREsWQgKM6Rm5DqPZpe6V9qShai6pXuKqLrrDJ9ijxrn9udxD7WG0EzUg2ODjFAuhCjRw5MurLuqlc3UyXdhb/s700/tentacles1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rYgLwi-VTJ2QcNIemF7Q0607En3AK20CdlDt3BTf5vP4oFX1ADOQzF_BREsWQgKM6Rm5DqPZpe6V9qShai6pXuKqLrrDJ9ijxrn9udxD7WG0EzUg2ODjFAuhCjRw5MurLuqlc3UyXdhb/w400-h400/tentacles1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">However, I had a nagging feeling that I needed to do something with this area other than just paint it as it is! The skulls are a great detail in their own right but were too distinctive a detail from the donor model (Great Unclean One) and in the new context seemed a little fiddly. Whenever I’ve had doubts or problems with this model I find the best solution is nearly always to be bold, so I decided to replace the skulls with something a bit more dynamic! <br /><br />I chose to have a Nurgling popping out of the wound. I painted my Nurgling, stuck him in place and filled the surrounding wound with microbeads. As it turns out this was not a good choice because I had replaced one fiddly detail with another. In addition to that the microbeads looked very artificial. It was time to follow my own advice and be bolder! </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcX2zKvB_HqJt89as8qoDU1uFxoePMyM9mmbIvXVqrjr3TrU44eOq0Jt69gOAjS_lMruupwWYojTNRLkNTZrib6X-tkIjmkiThaSk3WJRvNmu8oLs5xCKJ1DlUU-4gvFmG53wU5yu01k4q/s700/nurgling.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcX2zKvB_HqJt89as8qoDU1uFxoePMyM9mmbIvXVqrjr3TrU44eOq0Jt69gOAjS_lMruupwWYojTNRLkNTZrib6X-tkIjmkiThaSk3WJRvNmu8oLs5xCKJ1DlUU-4gvFmG53wU5yu01k4q/w400-h400/nurgling.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">I scraped away the microbeads and prised the Nurgling off the model. Then I took my Dremel and ground away all the detail of the wound to make a deeper recess. This was nerve-wracking work, and it made a horrible mess, covering the area in tiny plastic flecks that were very difficult to clean off the painted surfaces. But no pain no gain! <br /><br />I decided to see how the model looked with a tentacle hanging out of the wound. This was a much bolder element than the skulls or Nurglings and it also tied in to the other tentacles on the model. A quick test fitting confirmed that this was a move in the right direction but I decided to add two tentacles because that was a little more dynamic than just one. I pre-painted and varnished the tentacles before I pinned and glued them into place. Next I had to deal with the wound and microbeads. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUE5B6kleKLsXNS3GUWrkcohggtg5BXCXTcnUmfQ4DG0vrjS29UOvGdeU4-K4_g1fKbNbxgcTgC_69p75t7IsSr72vyr8bz_2CYaVUQVbDCrerPU_Ek_EY4rPVmIefBWhXgU5BXxW1bRBY/s700/tentacles2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUE5B6kleKLsXNS3GUWrkcohggtg5BXCXTcnUmfQ4DG0vrjS29UOvGdeU4-K4_g1fKbNbxgcTgC_69p75t7IsSr72vyr8bz_2CYaVUQVbDCrerPU_Ek_EY4rPVmIefBWhXgU5BXxW1bRBY/w400-h400/tentacles2.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">I’ve covered the use of microbeads on this blog before and you can find my tutorial <a href="https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2015/02/project-nurgle-part-7-adding-slime.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>. However as time has passed I’ve gained more experience with my technique and materials. <br /><br />I still recommend applying the microbeads one at a time as this gives far more control over the final look. If you fill or cover an area with a mass of microbeads in one go the finished result can be formless and bland. Taking care with their placement will enable you to ‘sculpt’ with the microbeads and create some form and structure to your effect.<br /> <br /> In my experience water effects is the best medium to fix your microbeads in place and bind them together; but it can also be mixed with a range of differing materials to tint it. Of course quantities used can be varied to adjust the finish but the examples bellow show my favourites. </p><p style="text-align: center;">Water effects finished with a coat of gloss varnish will give a crystal clear finish. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8b9RpD2pAutVux-kizbR98mvapL076oc6ak_gTpKzPEc2iRBWJrNcPlvSJB_4tsIGUa6BaKpHUpfry2TL8TwCjuZUSVxwy2D6VRAlgP0-m1spPVXnxDWFnS3thYhjxy4iX-dIm9NCS-L/s591/microbeads1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="591" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8b9RpD2pAutVux-kizbR98mvapL076oc6ak_gTpKzPEc2iRBWJrNcPlvSJB_4tsIGUa6BaKpHUpfry2TL8TwCjuZUSVxwy2D6VRAlgP0-m1spPVXnxDWFnS3thYhjxy4iX-dIm9NCS-L/s320/microbeads1.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div style="text-align: center;">Tamiya clear colours will tint the water effects without lessening the transparency. </div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD-BdmQPRb8XnHRlboM1gLZVSQFREp_AcGG9B415cXJ9YcV8JZGVUFoOzGxrvEBHrw-fgbgDsQqVQxaGkD5Cj9gH3toD_O_fi6WwoxwYoqFaz8HnL4envMDc4TwDnjuHKBLJZbJT98ptCd/s591/microbeads2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="591" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD-BdmQPRb8XnHRlboM1gLZVSQFREp_AcGG9B415cXJ9YcV8JZGVUFoOzGxrvEBHrw-fgbgDsQqVQxaGkD5Cj9gH3toD_O_fi6WwoxwYoqFaz8HnL4envMDc4TwDnjuHKBLJZbJT98ptCd/s320/microbeads2.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div style="text-align: center;">A small amount of pigment powders will give a slightly cloudy and less translucent finish. </div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX02cJy_hapE26Aihqe45dEPx-O57XN9zo0t4mYiX3E5q5YDeUKalIti3EeO29VW2SrszS3bt6OuaopeHiVz3vFHDpBWC4IBo-sCW6NPzyEkeIXdsg4AQVJtffUD3UKcFBZv07_DprHy7W/s591/microbeads3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="591" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX02cJy_hapE26Aihqe45dEPx-O57XN9zo0t4mYiX3E5q5YDeUKalIti3EeO29VW2SrszS3bt6OuaopeHiVz3vFHDpBWC4IBo-sCW6NPzyEkeIXdsg4AQVJtffUD3UKcFBZv07_DprHy7W/s320/microbeads3.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div style="text-align: center;">Acrylic paint can create a more opaque effect. </div><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPmncsuYTEVhN6oe4B40s6S2hrBHfkMaVK8o4fXD-2eoMqbEOnlJUDyfwgdRTWA2pJfWLei70QLnHlv2T1CDI6qYlmIAUzzcMZWVoFJBEQAh0w9hjjOLsTmb_9TgSs3sIhMRhLb1uA4Nj/s591/microbeads4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="591" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPmncsuYTEVhN6oe4B40s6S2hrBHfkMaVK8o4fXD-2eoMqbEOnlJUDyfwgdRTWA2pJfWLei70QLnHlv2T1CDI6qYlmIAUzzcMZWVoFJBEQAh0w9hjjOLsTmb_9TgSs3sIhMRhLb1uA4Nj/s320/microbeads4.jpg" /></a><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;">To varnish or not is a big question because it can radically alter the final result of any water effects. I use Vallejo Still Water which dries to a clear shiny finish but that may change over time. I’ve noticed that over the course of a few days the finish will become a little duller and eventually take on a matt/frosted look. This may be a result of my products being out of date but it has eventually happened in all cases where I’ve not varnished over my water effects! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP78BpsVTx8nmVRcgttRTWV_RBXoAv5oD80EH1ARwr9hYUyzi-PpSVYnDlNN2UlP1B8l0MiS-gN-u49LByIAcH7BdVltSyid0HjlnEXARXiybdCikt6SBQu1qeaYeirFtXFb6rkTF9qOkm/s591/frosting2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="591" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP78BpsVTx8nmVRcgttRTWV_RBXoAv5oD80EH1ARwr9hYUyzi-PpSVYnDlNN2UlP1B8l0MiS-gN-u49LByIAcH7BdVltSyid0HjlnEXARXiybdCikt6SBQu1qeaYeirFtXFb6rkTF9qOkm/w400-h400/frosting2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqI8gsepag8qUnZ5CdUFjB-a0qKr-04MKhKnEY_Rm0X8OtP3MU4UzyrEXXzcvUCBu0Le1KKzb-7cM_hLFr8Z6LBJLadArIOrxZIWvPjPDu7L7Tk5U5RuEPCJklsLGsSej-TV_ri067m6R/s591/frosting1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="591" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqI8gsepag8qUnZ5CdUFjB-a0qKr-04MKhKnEY_Rm0X8OtP3MU4UzyrEXXzcvUCBu0Le1KKzb-7cM_hLFr8Z6LBJLadArIOrxZIWvPjPDu7L7Tk5U5RuEPCJklsLGsSej-TV_ri067m6R/w400-h400/frosting1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;">However all is not lost because I quite like the frosted/translucent look. It’s an interesting and useful variation on the effect and the frosting doesn’t occur if the water effects have been varnished once they are dried. Where the frosting occurred and was unwanted it was easy enough to fix. I think the frosting is caused by humidity so I take a hairdryer and apply a gentle stream of warm air to the model. The frosting will disappear and the clear gloss finish will return before your eyes - like magic! It is then possible to apply a couple of coats of gloss varnish for a permanent fix. My preferred varnish for high gloss effects is Tamiya clear X-22. <br /><br />The final update to my use of microbeads and water effects came as a direct result of how they looked on my Daemon Engine. I’ve always intended to feature a quantity of slime and goo on my new model, as it was a prominent feature of the old one. I felt that the semi-opaque look and more muted colour I get from using pigment powders was the way to go because I didn’t want my slime to be too bright and ‘cartoony’. But as soon as I started adding water effects and microbeads to this model it looked very artificial and didn’t feel like a part of the whole. <br /><br />The solution was to apply some subtle red glazes over the green slime once it was dry. I usually build up a stronger red in deeper areas and along the top edges of my slime. This has the effect of toning down the slime and blending it into the surrounding areas. Even when it has been glossed over the slime now feels like a part of the whole scheme. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywbGaLTyPLyG-0f4rUZByzzWsCmYpWO76QVsR2HG4ZpmhJpMU92s2M27WVfIbuztwG4D0Lca3DkqZnzHrBNqr5AbHVdieYyI9ABUJmX1tQjczUBvYZyCNo8wEnXkM5R_jVNznsuqfnMfB/s700/wound1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywbGaLTyPLyG-0f4rUZByzzWsCmYpWO76QVsR2HG4ZpmhJpMU92s2M27WVfIbuztwG4D0Lca3DkqZnzHrBNqr5AbHVdieYyI9ABUJmX1tQjczUBvYZyCNo8wEnXkM5R_jVNznsuqfnMfB/w400-h400/wound1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSpQibYBKl2yL14UFV0g0NwKFQay3nfS-WcKovPp-IBj4eVcOuoRTC28ni3-SVrJk2MnK14uZKL4d7BCHlYKpwkOA9_LDHtEf-9fHDLkUn3f_6Y8ZItjYwNpqCIXga59dUvIcz_6yym27/s700/wound2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSpQibYBKl2yL14UFV0g0NwKFQay3nfS-WcKovPp-IBj4eVcOuoRTC28ni3-SVrJk2MnK14uZKL4d7BCHlYKpwkOA9_LDHtEf-9fHDLkUn3f_6Y8ZItjYwNpqCIXga59dUvIcz_6yym27/w400-h400/wound2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4pz0if-wuqv8iErE3mMFrM8dmdEztwrLuHe5w8gTDnvztGbEI__JQMfLYrMsr0bzhhSQ-s5bzbwqzGQZ5wQmsfOvpv2CO_wxi2qla48vmfr2GrqRsnAvkVZIeQDxGcESvbxyGS7PM18nG/s1086/arm1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1086" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4pz0if-wuqv8iErE3mMFrM8dmdEztwrLuHe5w8gTDnvztGbEI__JQMfLYrMsr0bzhhSQ-s5bzbwqzGQZ5wQmsfOvpv2CO_wxi2qla48vmfr2GrqRsnAvkVZIeQDxGcESvbxyGS7PM18nG/w400-h369/arm1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuaR4omUAwI6QwrEJvXo6A1s68piHt3QlsOrjWhf-vkZJANLD3CUk3qborIB7tlcNn-97Voi53xozL3FdThpAHU-_U_vBL2m2y5QLawXnoPyosZSnF37QOnb-8TgyZ5Su3qU2z6uNYauv/s1086/arm2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1086" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuaR4omUAwI6QwrEJvXo6A1s68piHt3QlsOrjWhf-vkZJANLD3CUk3qborIB7tlcNn-97Voi53xozL3FdThpAHU-_U_vBL2m2y5QLawXnoPyosZSnF37QOnb-8TgyZ5Su3qU2z6uNYauv/w400-h369/arm2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-57284649574104685432021-03-27T13:26:00.001+00:002021-03-27T13:26:48.035+00:00Project P30 - Part 10<div style="text-align: left;"><h3 class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 19pt; text-align: left;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Painting skin tones in three (painfully complicated)
steps! </span></h3> </div><div style="text-align: left;">Over the last few weeks I’ve established a good routine where I’m able to paint for a few hours every day and it feels like I’m making steady progress. There is still a lot to be resolved with regards to how I use my colour palette, but the more I get done the more developed my ideas become. I am especially happy with how well the flesh tones are coming together. </div><div> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQSsm-_RZDWG7UgPgYypIySOc7CHKkZZEujbPplnGu-C4ewgRsRn35v3626AMVp0_naoqq8UtB290q9AxRd2ZcwNeifeph3JgxVbryaqEq5XADwIsO9qoP1GYJzUIv_fn8noUbTNy-6Q4/s900/P30+paint5c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQSsm-_RZDWG7UgPgYypIySOc7CHKkZZEujbPplnGu-C4ewgRsRn35v3626AMVp0_naoqq8UtB290q9AxRd2ZcwNeifeph3JgxVbryaqEq5XADwIsO9qoP1GYJzUIv_fn8noUbTNy-6Q4/w371-h400/P30+paint5c.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />When I started painting, I thought that my plans for the flesh tones had gone out of the window in favour of something similar to what I’ve done before. However, as I’ve explored my colour palette, and the surfaces involved in painting the flesh, things have become a bit more interesting for me. Although the flesh tones I’m painting are similar to those in earlier projects, I’ve been able to incorporate the pale tones and cool hues I intended. The result is a more complex and nuanced Nurgle flesh than I’ve painted before. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGVR_vj8Zv3WMCLYG8oMF2rd6I9c5wpMsdQAzL9tjIo50r5Z5kyPOQZ9kaKKfbrBuB2otLC40yCZJYzbSlgYQakRFXvb_OzSrBzZgECcUEoS8xG3vN1Lemj0ismtxfftydtkxQ1r1L0ksF/s900/P30+paint5a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGVR_vj8Zv3WMCLYG8oMF2rd6I9c5wpMsdQAzL9tjIo50r5Z5kyPOQZ9kaKKfbrBuB2otLC40yCZJYzbSlgYQakRFXvb_OzSrBzZgECcUEoS8xG3vN1Lemj0ismtxfftydtkxQ1r1L0ksF/w371-h400/P30+paint5a.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />Overall this is a very satisfying outcome. It’s keeping me challenged and interested during the painting process and the results feel appropriate to a model of this size and scope. I think a straightforward application of my Plaguebearer flesh tones would have looked far too basic on this model! </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyIjtZXu2QaiyzwO9jCecu9BbO1PrnyjYmRWJ89NE4QH3aOrYLgD-n7hN2fBZekj9sozIvvnk2cJieolSW_wovojkBXnBSlT0zXa6k62HDEux08SQ0MIna-MtM49mJe7h0rc_j2vlOP8S/s1366/nurgling.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="1366" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyIjtZXu2QaiyzwO9jCecu9BbO1PrnyjYmRWJ89NE4QH3aOrYLgD-n7hN2fBZekj9sozIvvnk2cJieolSW_wovojkBXnBSlT0zXa6k62HDEux08SQ0MIna-MtM49mJe7h0rc_j2vlOP8S/w400-h205/nurgling.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This Nurgling was painted to give me a change of pace <br />and will be added to the Tank (along with others of it's kind) later on.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"> <br />I’ve already shown the colour swatch from my notebook but lets now look at the actual palette I’m using for my flesh tones. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7y9HuHggkDaHRbtBRv_C4pdhVRRZ9Zcsrn-RO4li9ejSRksa2VYC7J3WSkDzeFtM3xhr1GuyoWqbIfInVlZJKP6N5Xx1mwVIsHD4i2fuzg8G_8gCct4suSQx2vNBZ5z1qWJWBiQSHgKm/s1518/palette1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="1518" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7y9HuHggkDaHRbtBRv_C4pdhVRRZ9Zcsrn-RO4li9ejSRksa2VYC7J3WSkDzeFtM3xhr1GuyoWqbIfInVlZJKP6N5Xx1mwVIsHD4i2fuzg8G_8gCct4suSQx2vNBZ5z1qWJWBiQSHgKm/w400-h131/palette1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><h4>Global Shadow colours. </h4><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBAImsE-UPz3AjA_Qc7lz6VUEjxVbvqVKIMO0FpFD5A8vYwW_uE9MdAhN8vAH85C2RP8VEZhh8guHW9AF6jWoRSwuKuFa2EFqZ2GGiT-QzdfJCC1Y9Oo1CpzdAHHC3ElISUB7ox5K8Oz3K/s64/BlackLeather.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBAImsE-UPz3AjA_Qc7lz6VUEjxVbvqVKIMO0FpFD5A8vYwW_uE9MdAhN8vAH85C2RP8VEZhh8guHW9AF6jWoRSwuKuFa2EFqZ2GGiT-QzdfJCC1Y9Oo1CpzdAHHC3ElISUB7ox5K8Oz3K/s16000/BlackLeather.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Leather</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYM7nPXj5MM2HxrzfNmHaViSZUorrDKQJUz-IKOVzUZ-MpgrIcG3d7Z8GnP11WMyzwq399_Uo-BCbzBwAbSYLMn30UKhlqKNI8uwDmP1wmfrN-MCSFF_5ZKCmOBvaEEHeKD_5BQzyDP1Ic/s64/BoralGreen.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYM7nPXj5MM2HxrzfNmHaViSZUorrDKQJUz-IKOVzUZ-MpgrIcG3d7Z8GnP11WMyzwq399_Uo-BCbzBwAbSYLMn30UKhlqKNI8uwDmP1wmfrN-MCSFF_5ZKCmOBvaEEHeKD_5BQzyDP1Ic/s0/BoralGreen.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Boreal Green</td></tr></tbody></table><br />These two colours are used in all of the shadows. The exact proportions I use in the mix vary depending upon the values of hue, temperature, tone and saturation I want. Broadly speaking, the shadows tend to be cooler than the mid-tones and highlights. To adjust the nature of my shadow colours, Black Leather will warm things up and desaturate while the green will give a cooler but more saturated colour. Boreal Green is, like many blue and green hues, a very pigmented colour and should be used cautiously. A little bit of Boreal Green will go a very long way! <br /><br /><h4>Global Highlight colours. </h4><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacx6M2NQdYQRAq1-Whyk0IAfK-A_YFrA-W4cNXlsvttOM3D0X7amgm-voitBN3s7R9alAOu2N_g14ICVA28khJ2mHSNfQ-zxXZroyP66_E4UlrcHArF5z9dDGDtwZRtz9qgLBeLX8DP6F/s64/FlayedOneFlesh.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacx6M2NQdYQRAq1-Whyk0IAfK-A_YFrA-W4cNXlsvttOM3D0X7amgm-voitBN3s7R9alAOu2N_g14ICVA28khJ2mHSNfQ-zxXZroyP66_E4UlrcHArF5z9dDGDtwZRtz9qgLBeLX8DP6F/s0/FlayedOneFlesh.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flayed One Flesh<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQhW3A-lrToIc838C9f7J8aQP73YPrWkW-U5QwC7Hw9MCd2GC3Lxs6D7Qk85m8CzKZvBXWNLJ00BmOQkF6AeY-6jZyrcbNDU3kceO_yyhIXhP7hb8D1AkNtkp08mzGQFaE9_VJD_w-iar/s64/PurityWhite.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQhW3A-lrToIc838C9f7J8aQP73YPrWkW-U5QwC7Hw9MCd2GC3Lxs6D7Qk85m8CzKZvBXWNLJ00BmOQkF6AeY-6jZyrcbNDU3kceO_yyhIXhP7hb8D1AkNtkp08mzGQFaE9_VJD_w-iar/s0/PurityWhite.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Purity White<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">Flayed One Flesh is currently my favourite highlight colour it makes for bright, warm highlights. When I want to push things a little further I use Purity White. It is a slightly translucent soft white that will not overpower a colour mix. I’ve found that, although I need a little white in my highlight mix, here and there, I need to be very sparing with its use. <br /><br /><h4>Mid-tones. </h4><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIv6PDTjk0-BEfPiN7tmFrF00_rfcd8hp-Nv7NNHhgZWs-iBUJdyhFvL6QOaR3BU1vr79MmEZZiwoXhlx9tRYbxh-YzT8duK9hpFGgnv8eerDQ8vBUoxZZFzXtNW_BCka2_-DZA4K-q1nI/s64/BugmansGlow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIv6PDTjk0-BEfPiN7tmFrF00_rfcd8hp-Nv7NNHhgZWs-iBUJdyhFvL6QOaR3BU1vr79MmEZZiwoXhlx9tRYbxh-YzT8duK9hpFGgnv8eerDQ8vBUoxZZFzXtNW_BCka2_-DZA4K-q1nI/s0/BugmansGlow.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bugmans Glow</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5HZoT2Umb_W4um7fTu5Dkz8HB1cPu57LtfahyphenhyphenP5lRH_gMBsj3I-gue_o7AkYM1G1GcrrXUnCanWLBR59zu0jJTv0sEjGI7T36cmb1MbQ7-vQ0fyZAmp2iLll8yk1ED5rjO71D6X3r1SwI/s64/Bering+Blue.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5HZoT2Umb_W4um7fTu5Dkz8HB1cPu57LtfahyphenhyphenP5lRH_gMBsj3I-gue_o7AkYM1G1GcrrXUnCanWLBR59zu0jJTv0sEjGI7T36cmb1MbQ7-vQ0fyZAmp2iLll8yk1ED5rjO71D6X3r1SwI/s0/Bering+Blue.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bering Blue</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZ08SgalR0moW6pNnMgIPzuMwViTsizwlf9NT_VHBghKTRKVA061giutoY4ZtooiWu_0xLewp2xyq8Caft0HwXeZuvoVxuUfy5Tm05fJbVt51zoLYC7JafzKXjBmhTPNjyyk2rVR74wI9/s64/SherwoodGreen.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZ08SgalR0moW6pNnMgIPzuMwViTsizwlf9NT_VHBghKTRKVA061giutoY4ZtooiWu_0xLewp2xyq8Caft0HwXeZuvoVxuUfy5Tm05fJbVt51zoLYC7JafzKXjBmhTPNjyyk2rVR74wI9/s0/SherwoodGreen.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sherwood Green</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDoJez2FzW7cLnzi27G8JoV1PQLDQh4y_0Usu47L5n-LAcVol3A6H3Hk0UA4-gApppvgWwk9_T3zL3uTQHE8J3nkfuBjkTqV96wbXZWXG6ZolR_9wISZo-d3vtvOIMBGlWyX5VJhUeTTiV/s64/BloodRed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDoJez2FzW7cLnzi27G8JoV1PQLDQh4y_0Usu47L5n-LAcVol3A6H3Hk0UA4-gApppvgWwk9_T3zL3uTQHE8J3nkfuBjkTqV96wbXZWXG6ZolR_9wISZo-d3vtvOIMBGlWyX5VJhUeTTiV/s0/BloodRed.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blood Red<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXBek6wY6jvhNwpHNudyM3Fe_yf1ycdWqtAAgIhs8X2VNo3gzbKNvAAAvrhk-yViGu6jd0nhK0WB83Ga6ZeBjgnOxm6zhdbh8oKsTyDSFS0l5-b11U7mF4cN5jgAe2KAwW7E_5WZYsWGk/s64/Sahara+Yellow.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXBek6wY6jvhNwpHNudyM3Fe_yf1ycdWqtAAgIhs8X2VNo3gzbKNvAAAvrhk-yViGu6jd0nhK0WB83Ga6ZeBjgnOxm6zhdbh8oKsTyDSFS0l5-b11U7mF4cN5jgAe2KAwW7E_5WZYsWGk/s0/Sahara+Yellow.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sahara Yellow</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AA830a-o5Br9_cHPApaoJlDEtW_VAAVle0MdkBRUvr8eZqWjEEUIHnf4uIMBmtYpCwlwinem2t0jVAnwzDzY9FZt6K8gxMT6jY4S4SvZCqAJ3WI8BZ2RpU8idbq-b2ZUmtuTeq8uUDs3/s64/RakarthFleshGW.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="64" data-original-width="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AA830a-o5Br9_cHPApaoJlDEtW_VAAVle0MdkBRUvr8eZqWjEEUIHnf4uIMBmtYpCwlwinem2t0jVAnwzDzY9FZt6K8gxMT6jY4S4SvZCqAJ3WI8BZ2RpU8idbq-b2ZUmtuTeq8uUDs3/s0/RakarthFleshGW.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rakarth Flesh </td></tr></tbody></table><br />There are quite a few colours in my mid-tone range but I am not necessarily using them all together at the same time. As with the shadows, I will vary things to adjust the values of the colour I want. I’ve found that pale flesh tones look very good if they contain elements of blue, red and yellow, so I’ve included these colours in my mid-tones. Green is there to introduce a Nurglish element and Sherwood Green is a favourite colour in my Nurgle schemes. It’s a yellow green that works very well in warmer flesh tones and compliments the cooler Boreal Green I’ve used in the shadows <br /><br />Bering Blue is my blue of choice for flesh tones. It is a subtle desaturated hue that will not overpower other colours in a mix. I especially like using it to create cool reflections within my shadows, adding extra nuance to those areas. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_9wfs9W9hmlFx2MsOyN78iWdSrGKuq4kKPda4Z0xN_Il5pinTuCt73c5w-5xm5T9-WKYeTEVTYRiYw3eKQG62dLD7LlbmQ_d83hWBcL0tWzTwG-KWSadug5XwKundGLcBxS5MaG0erXv6/s835/reflections.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="835" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_9wfs9W9hmlFx2MsOyN78iWdSrGKuq4kKPda4Z0xN_Il5pinTuCt73c5w-5xm5T9-WKYeTEVTYRiYw3eKQG62dLD7LlbmQ_d83hWBcL0tWzTwG-KWSadug5XwKundGLcBxS5MaG0erXv6/w400-h215/reflections.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />As well as serving as a base colour for my flesh tones, Rakarth Flesh is a useful addition to the mid-tones. It’s inclusion helps to unify all the colours into a convincing whole. It may not be obvious but there is nearly always a little Rakarth mixed in with my mid-tones. <br /><br />As my title suggests painting the fleshtones on my Demon Engine is a complicated process! It involves a lot of going back and forth to adjust the values of my colours. One thing it most definitely isn’t is a regular step-by-step process. Naturally enough some areas are difficult to get right while others fall into place more easily; but the overall process can be loosely described as having three stages. It usually takes me between eight and twelve hours, spread over several painting sessions, to be satisfied with my work on a particular area. <br /><br />The first stage is the most systematic as I block in the overall placement of my highlights and shadows. This will provide some structure to my painting. I will adjust the characteristics of my colours but the placement of highlight, mid-tone or shadow is fixed. In addition to the tonal values I will make initial decisions about the hue, saturation and temperature of my colours. </div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQHNdn4ZGDWJA6WB0SfMJTu6ZZSXQvULAXJcCxuctlxkEFDg26GqMuZbzOV4T3ryGtUHJSAKmEpoBRBSIxM96khgxxlDXFEywDKD5WiCfCY4Xh_-Sm8ha_T21MdAnT0hMDJ1l7sYbwIWJA/s900/step1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQHNdn4ZGDWJA6WB0SfMJTu6ZZSXQvULAXJcCxuctlxkEFDg26GqMuZbzOV4T3ryGtUHJSAKmEpoBRBSIxM96khgxxlDXFEywDKD5WiCfCY4Xh_-Sm8ha_T21MdAnT0hMDJ1l7sYbwIWJA/w371-h400/step1.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />It’s during the second painting session, having taken the time to sit back and study my work, when I will fine tune the colour values. I am considering the area I am working on and it’s relationship to the model as a whole, to influence my choices. This work is carried out with a succession of glazing, stippling and thin layers. It is a process of going back and forth between colour values, using different techniques, in no specific order. This is by far the longest (and potentially most frustrating) part of the process, if things don’t go well. I will also begin to consider and introduce texture. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZQSP3flCAIlqMs4s_T8IdzawnUUBtp9tlQ-58hk4Li3sRTRb7HqC1M-9gpI3GN-p0lIqjXFGfizsfZodUlWXn3YhpxQCivbKWHQEthjKC7sikdV-BEOEIb8HCoLOefYVQuebFhBza0KQ/s900/step3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZQSP3flCAIlqMs4s_T8IdzawnUUBtp9tlQ-58hk4Li3sRTRb7HqC1M-9gpI3GN-p0lIqjXFGfizsfZodUlWXn3YhpxQCivbKWHQEthjKC7sikdV-BEOEIb8HCoLOefYVQuebFhBza0KQ/w371-h400/step3.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />Once again I will take time to step back from painting and consider my next moves. Time spent thinking about painting is at least as important as time spent painting. Step three is where I will finesse my work. Any adjustments to the colour values are usually subtle and most changes will involve refining the textures and transitions. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br />To be honest I’m thoroughly enjoying myself as I push all this paint around! <br /><br /></div><br /><br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-85985733267288509622021-03-12T16:15:00.000+00:002021-03-12T16:15:11.115+00:00Project P30 - Part 9. Metallics, molars and monster skin.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoHyLM3Fd9PlVdmKrCmgW2mdzYm79VufaylcdlAXtu5-W0Ah8n8k6bjxdSyDwRaj0iX2uuXzQ07OzkQ94Nn37kGD7U5jrD5Hzt63b34lOHlOQLacMc2Siu14lsxZ2RwM4ml6wU4UgePNo/s900/P30+paint4f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoHyLM3Fd9PlVdmKrCmgW2mdzYm79VufaylcdlAXtu5-W0Ah8n8k6bjxdSyDwRaj0iX2uuXzQ07OzkQ94Nn37kGD7U5jrD5Hzt63b34lOHlOQLacMc2Siu14lsxZ2RwM4ml6wU4UgePNo/w371-h400/P30+paint4f.jpg" width="371" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"> </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I’ve made a good start at establishing the flesh tones on my Demon Engine but, before I get too far into the project, I want to turn my attention to the metalics. The contrast between flesh and metal is a big part of what this model is all about. So I want to establish that contrast at an early stage. I’d decided quite some time ago that true metalics were the way to go on this project. The difference between the shiny true metalics and the flesh would add to the overall material contrasts on my model. The large size of the model lends itself to the use of true metalics as there will be plenty of space to play with the effect. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I prefer to paint my metalics over a dark base so I blocked out the eyepiece with Black Leather from Scale colour. I find that using a brown hue for my base colour helps to give the metalics a dirty and corroded look. My plan was to paint the main box as dull steel and the lens mounts and other parts in copper and bronze hues. To get things off to a start I painted a layer of GW’s Leadbelcher. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div></div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG3bQcnXcTqyogkH6TfXZkWo_0s9-c8nZMU1IqhO3KmSab8U2P_QBvibxcc6zra5Fpm1POq87zHbzGFa1DZfcgkHG2UX73wFPflK6S6bmixEuhGeAquFEuPx1NKHwrHGtNnZjeOya1lsnM/s900/P30+paint2b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG3bQcnXcTqyogkH6TfXZkWo_0s9-c8nZMU1IqhO3KmSab8U2P_QBvibxcc6zra5Fpm1POq87zHbzGFa1DZfcgkHG2UX73wFPflK6S6bmixEuhGeAquFEuPx1NKHwrHGtNnZjeOya1lsnM/w371-h400/P30+paint2b.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></p><p><br />As I painted the flesh tones I’d begun to wonder if true metalics were the correct way to go but this was nothing compared to my reaction to the colour I’d just applied. I loathed how the metallic paint looked on my model! Normally I’d stick to my guns and persevere, to resolve any issues, but this time I decided to switch to painting non-metallic metals (NMM). There was no deeply thought out reason for the change, I was simply following my instincts. <br /><br />I decided to paint all the NMM colours using the palette I’d already devised for the flesh tones. I think my negative reaction to the metallic paint was, in part, because it looked very artificial and separate to the rest of the model. By using the same overall palette for the flesh and metal they will sit together more comfortably on the model. </p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVhRtPz8xU6JSxH4pIbtqbXu1nyjxPOloX38TfeRRIYImi1lDkaPByZXd4O_B1Bn6BwSCHlNorBV5UK87hsM6LJ-p_eeiwWrQMgV1e6rsiTX1w8P9An8Z3PVtrqotN_Y2zgcMwUmIrfJP/s900/P30+paint3a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVhRtPz8xU6JSxH4pIbtqbXu1nyjxPOloX38TfeRRIYImi1lDkaPByZXd4O_B1Bn6BwSCHlNorBV5UK87hsM6LJ-p_eeiwWrQMgV1e6rsiTX1w8P9An8Z3PVtrqotN_Y2zgcMwUmIrfJP/w371-h400/P30+paint3a.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></p><p><br />I was still going to use a dark brown base colour and would, for the most part, paint my metalics from dark to light. This approach, along with the use of sharp highlighting and strong tonal contrasts, will create the material contrast between the soft flesh and hard metal. In short, although using the same colours, I’m using different techniques to represent different materials. <br /><br />I don’t want to get too bogged down while painting one small area at this early stage. However, my painting needed to be slower and more detailed than anything I’d done on the flesh so far. I needed my work for the eyepiece to be crisp and precise to emphasize that material difference. It took me a couple of days to resolve things but I am very happy with the result and I’m now sure that NMM is the correct approach for this project. Of course this means that I’ll now have to repaint the belly cannon at some point! <br /><br />Once the eye was painted I turned my attention to the teeth as the next step in completing the face. I usually paint teeth with a warm ivory hue but I felt this would be to clean looking. For the highlight colour I would use Flayed One Flesh as usual but I decided upon a dark base colour of Black Leather, which also serves as my global shadow colour. In the mid tones I’ve used a variety of blue, yellow, green and brown hues all mixed with Rakarth Flesh. This creates a subtle greenish/grey hue to the teeth and creates a slightly rotten look that feels appropriate. <br /><br />It was especially fiddly to get my brush into all the areas where I needed paint on the teeth. Without a doubt this model, due to its size and shape, is tricky to paint; and it’s going to involve some awkward brush angles! The solution requires patience as I’m spending a lot of my time making repeated passes to gradually refine my, initially crude, painting. I’d already painted and varnished the tongue as a sub-assembly so once the teeth were done I could glue it into place. The mouth is now fully painted although there will be a layer of drool effects added at a later date. <br /><br />It’s easy to lose track of the overall balance within the paint scheme on a model of this size, especially when concentrating on one small area at a time. So this was a good time to step back and take stock. I decided to extend my painting to the upper belly/torso areas so that I could get a better feel for my overall scheme. Where necessary I’ve adjusted the colours and tones I’d painted with a combination of stippling and glazing. </p><p> </p><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp6GzAiQQ6c35oiq8PvgILZ-ia-l1ovnhqWeUdfAFEXXjkVbG7_am6I3phic2pXto-J4BwQEtZv2mDbJi1DZjcW69ot_N4HSsWkwwGu3qx_EtulQe8g8Ogex8KERox-l93TTVu4Em7OAde/s900/P30+paint4c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp6GzAiQQ6c35oiq8PvgILZ-ia-l1ovnhqWeUdfAFEXXjkVbG7_am6I3phic2pXto-J4BwQEtZv2mDbJi1DZjcW69ot_N4HSsWkwwGu3qx_EtulQe8g8Ogex8KERox-l93TTVu4Em7OAde/w371-h400/P30+paint4c.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgocSvoWXK43fjkPQOewct4NFWaGZMIZTHXCPyN8sYMwEFNuh0x0yAny_DKgknknLrAj7jVAhV5ToFs81JeQtk-Z6p_Hn1fErREIQ4LpaLps074hSgmoE-BrD99IdK-lbhBIMc0ToKnnoNn/s900/P30+paint4d.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgocSvoWXK43fjkPQOewct4NFWaGZMIZTHXCPyN8sYMwEFNuh0x0yAny_DKgknknLrAj7jVAhV5ToFs81JeQtk-Z6p_Hn1fErREIQ4LpaLps074hSgmoE-BrD99IdK-lbhBIMc0ToKnnoNn/w371-h400/P30+paint4d.jpg" width="371" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQE_GkNdKbAo_sdubRcrEtjyp_a-Cdnc19Vjol3X7KpE_zqYfXcRFkHaDHQC-qxVbajR_OQmYo8o9TzkU0sbuxkJa_GXdwQYipEdcuLXxAXTaRB8YwCdgwab8QosRjma_hKl0YL0YKb_G/s900/P30+paint4b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQE_GkNdKbAo_sdubRcrEtjyp_a-Cdnc19Vjol3X7KpE_zqYfXcRFkHaDHQC-qxVbajR_OQmYo8o9TzkU0sbuxkJa_GXdwQYipEdcuLXxAXTaRB8YwCdgwab8QosRjma_hKl0YL0YKb_G/w371-h400/P30+paint4b.jpg" width="371" /></a></p><p> </p><p>I’ve also begun to tidy up and smooth out some of my earlier painting. The intention is to refine and adjust my painting but not to smooth everything evenly over the entire model. There is a lot of sculpted texture on my tank but I want to add painted textures too. This will add interest and variety to the surfaces and enhance the material contrasts. Rather than adding painted textures as a separate stage I am trying to incorporate them as the scheme develops. </p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7DqcCbfJOai0yPOi_6754GTGBMY3147b6zR590Tx0aVuc4tr9Ddf6jAxMeBbH5FvPJT36igDy_vLHFKYXdpqyFtMe3ktqOrzNm8XkuF1TKMWuAW2C7_vCOR9SXOzw7JwYWiEb54oPA-HS/s900/P30+paint4e.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7DqcCbfJOai0yPOi_6754GTGBMY3147b6zR590Tx0aVuc4tr9Ddf6jAxMeBbH5FvPJT36igDy_vLHFKYXdpqyFtMe3ktqOrzNm8XkuF1TKMWuAW2C7_vCOR9SXOzw7JwYWiEb54oPA-HS/w371-h400/P30+paint4e.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></p><p><br />This project continues to challenge me both physically and mentally but that’s the entire point of it after all! <br /><br /></p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-30816146459156621592021-02-24T17:24:00.000+00:002021-02-24T17:24:13.039+00:00Project P30 - Part 8. Lets get the painting started!<p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbP1YvA3SNj6iZ5b2iSJ56GQAZWeVi-8E9kUZd8ToHy6cqX8F6Pt1tRnnRbpXiTgGnWoja6WoqMG_Ppl5pgVU5Xpx3BDnNWrsftnD6F-vhrDxWuQFpjdOQpMW0b5rIYfGQvBzKM1Oq_Om/s900/P30+paint2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbP1YvA3SNj6iZ5b2iSJ56GQAZWeVi-8E9kUZd8ToHy6cqX8F6Pt1tRnnRbpXiTgGnWoja6WoqMG_Ppl5pgVU5Xpx3BDnNWrsftnD6F-vhrDxWuQFpjdOQpMW0b5rIYfGQvBzKM1Oq_Om/w371-h400/P30+paint2b.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>I wondered if I’d ever get to this stage but, at long last, I’m painting my Demon Tank! However, before the ‘fun’ could start, there was one last little bit of preparation to be done. I had to wash the model prior to priming it. This was to remove any grease and dust that had built up during the construction of the model. It’s essential to have a clean surface before you apply any paint. I first masked off the belly-mouth and then set to with an electric toothbrush and dish soap. Once I’d given the model a careful scrub, I gently rinsed it off under cool running water. This was a terrifying process as it had the potential to do quite a bit of damage but everything went very well. <br /><br />The size of this model presented a challenge to me in that I would have to handle it quite a bit during painting. That, combined with the large surface area, meant that priming the model would be essential! I first gave the underside and deeper recesses a coat of black and then sprayed the whole model with several light coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. This is another potentially tricky job but the primer gave me an excellent result!</p><p> </p><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnssrmMmwQOsqjeQQi85Kfd1sfMOdo9wgBoIy7zDHstLx24k9QhxerwqRE-9872ZfPtLFnnoGl84zcSAzuX-2EvLxwKSBP1cO6rN2_fTh-zbQdjrvOz1rfP-6otGmtCsESDScNeDj9OWq-/s900/P30+primer1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnssrmMmwQOsqjeQQi85Kfd1sfMOdo9wgBoIy7zDHstLx24k9QhxerwqRE-9872ZfPtLFnnoGl84zcSAzuX-2EvLxwKSBP1cO6rN2_fTh-zbQdjrvOz1rfP-6otGmtCsESDScNeDj9OWq-/w371-h400/P30+primer1.jpg" width="371" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmZd5CSTdy2DKdjwLnhbKyQybXi_rqsrTWr8-orzR_sXYs9xBdCLyZoukgGVJkGwovN0rg4645vWPWSnbEp3X12FhwpqrXAq5Dgm-VB-wSbFTQbqVKahCP0tcUFFGaUVIPCZJLdBjaRZIp/s900/P30+primer2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmZd5CSTdy2DKdjwLnhbKyQybXi_rqsrTWr8-orzR_sXYs9xBdCLyZoukgGVJkGwovN0rg4645vWPWSnbEp3X12FhwpqrXAq5Dgm-VB-wSbFTQbqVKahCP0tcUFFGaUVIPCZJLdBjaRZIp/w371-h400/P30+primer2.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"> <br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">And so to painting! </h3><p style="text-align: left;"><br />Painting this model feels like going on a bit of an adventure. The physical challenges presented by the size of the model are something totally new to me. Add to that the nostalgia, and expectations involved in revisiting my first great success, and the result is a project unlike any I’ve taken on before! That’s the main reason why my colour palette uses a lot of tried and tested favourites. I do believe that stepping out of your comfort zone provides a positive challenge, but I like to pick my challenges carefully. The size and scope of the model is a major challenge in itself. By using a tried and tested palette of colours I’ll be able to draw on my experience with them to resolve the overall paint scheme. After all the entire point of this project is that it’s a coming together of old and new. <br /><br />As I’ve said I’d expected the size of the model to be something of a challenge and I wasn’t wrong! I started off by attaching a painting handle to the model but took that off straight away. It shifted the centre of balance and made the model too big and awkward to hold during painting. So I am carefully holding the model in my gloved hand while I paint it. The tank weighs very little, which is a great help, but I’ve had to adapt my painting technique and posture to its size. <br /><br />I’m used to working up close to the surface I’m painting. I usually brace my hand by holding the model on my desk and my brush hand is usually also braced on the desk, or sometimes against the hand holding the model. It’s a very stable set up and allows me a lot of control over my brush. However, in my usual painting position, there isn’t now enough space for the model and my hands between my eyes and the desk! I’ve had to get myself a taller stool so that I can sit a little higher. I also have to adapt to bracing my brush hand against the model rather than my desk. <br /><br />This new set up is taking quite a bit of getting used to as it’s far more difficult to keep my hands stable during painting. There are some tricky angles involved in getting my brush into contact with the model’s surface and I have to handle the model while I paint it. Challenging as this may all be, I’d anticipated these issues as a part of the project and, so far, there has been nothing that a little patience and perseverance can’t overcome. In fact, I’m enjoying this project because of the challenges not in spite of them! <br /><br />As usual I decided to start off by painting the face. This is going to set the tone and character of the model. It’s also a relatively small area that contains a lot of contrasting surfaces. So it will give me the opportunity to decide how I am going to resolve many of the material contrasts at an early stage. My usual habit is to work on a fairly small area at a time but, on a model of this size, I think that would be a mistake. Therefore, I decided to work over a larger area, which included the face and chest, by starting out fairly roughly and then gradually refining the painted surfaces as the project evolves. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9DuF7dGRiA3xL0UVLC1nBABm5NBhGnn8hju2Z9U8bAJ6-YTEchd-S7WmOwEIatkWsWbVplkJP9sRq_EC-qP2PE79XJa7_n4gME3BN7N80fdoF9I0Ba6uWoAfjh2f_NOlKNn3HnAP7rW3i/s900/P30+paint1a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9DuF7dGRiA3xL0UVLC1nBABm5NBhGnn8hju2Z9U8bAJ6-YTEchd-S7WmOwEIatkWsWbVplkJP9sRq_EC-qP2PE79XJa7_n4gME3BN7N80fdoF9I0Ba6uWoAfjh2f_NOlKNn3HnAP7rW3i/w371-h400/P30+paint1a.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMLaJ-n2kVmBN9MLBylqetxbYDUWQThsrMbkT47v19wCTfexy7Bv0r2YKjf8irft411AEtz0tXWokzzAqvvEW0M6LwCwW-sLafFo6QaYsM3LCkB3sZm0e9zsOvKK_9EoEIE6GMmIsVomL8/s900/P30+paint1b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMLaJ-n2kVmBN9MLBylqetxbYDUWQThsrMbkT47v19wCTfexy7Bv0r2YKjf8irft411AEtz0tXWokzzAqvvEW0M6LwCwW-sLafFo6QaYsM3LCkB3sZm0e9zsOvKK_9EoEIE6GMmIsVomL8/w371-h400/P30+paint1b.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><br />After painting a base of Rakarth Flesh, my first layers of paint were applied with a size 4 brush, roughing out the areas of light and shade. I then began to lay down a series of glazes to add and adjust the colour nuances. My next move was to focus on smaller areas to begin refining my work. However, I made sure to keep moving around the overall area I was painting, and not to linger on one spot for too long. This enabled me to balance things out over a larger area than I might normally do and resolve the overall skin tones. <br /><br />By starting out big and bold I’ve been able to avoid getting stuck on one small area. My overall approach is one of going back and forth between different areas and different tones. This is a very different way of working from a structured step by step approach but it feels appropriate for this model. <br /><br />I’m very glad that I’d taken the decision to think through my colour palette in advance because it saved me a lot of time and helped me to work swiftly at the early stages. However, as expected, once I started to work with my chosen palette I felt the need to adapt it. I had some definite ideas about the direction I was going to take but, as my work progressed, so did my ideas. As I’ve said before, the good thing about starting out with a plan is that it gives you a structure to work within but it also enables you to vary from that structure in an organised way. <br /><br />I’d planned to use a cooler blue/green hue on much of the model but, as I progressed, that felt wrong. So I’ve used more of the yellow/green hues from my palette in the flesh tones. I turned to my old favourite of Bering Blue to bring some subtle blue tones to the flesh. I think is a more successful choice than my original option of turquoise. However, I think the blue/green hues will come into play as the project progresses. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHuzKoqB4RfWAlaMjhMAzAgtEfheErGEKb4DTZCKy9uHcgKjIbN_99d8nj5VHQ-45JpxLmrKGnOWmF1CvblLFehcn_TdIELI549tBearSPzPNgDiGMH840hmsfB8-HBV5oM8uGIKf6AWS/s900/P30+paint2a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHuzKoqB4RfWAlaMjhMAzAgtEfheErGEKb4DTZCKy9uHcgKjIbN_99d8nj5VHQ-45JpxLmrKGnOWmF1CvblLFehcn_TdIELI549tBearSPzPNgDiGMH840hmsfB8-HBV5oM8uGIKf6AWS/w371-h400/P30+paint2a.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFPYxsxNJ0lJwlzJ2gxUDwsFnZS40RWk70en2QbX4NhlBHUui1bOx82EJGg5H4zKFGclIAKQ4O9Gbc8CugRa8oYL04-cjVTmYJErdr-BrJznSaLaN8sVx6Tyr_3qCsGxN_OMfE_Re-robh/s900/P30+paint2b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFPYxsxNJ0lJwlzJ2gxUDwsFnZS40RWk70en2QbX4NhlBHUui1bOx82EJGg5H4zKFGclIAKQ4O9Gbc8CugRa8oYL04-cjVTmYJErdr-BrJznSaLaN8sVx6Tyr_3qCsGxN_OMfE_Re-robh/w371-h400/P30+paint2b.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><br />I’d thought that the overall look and feel of my colour palette would be very different to anything I’d done before but, in reality, it’s turning out to have a familiar feel to it. As has already been pointed out on Instagram, my flesh tones have much in common with both my Plaguebearers and my Troggoth. Although it’s not what I’d intended to do, I’m actually very happy with this. It feels like a more natural progression from my earlier work and a truer reflection of my style and instincts. <br /><br />This project has been in planning for many years so it’s been on my mind as I’ve worked on many other models. Consequently many of my models contain things that I was trying out in preparation for the Demon Tank. My Death Guard, Horticulus Slimux, Kastelan Robot and Sloppity Bile Piper may all have an influence before I’m finished. I don’t want this project to nothing more than a ‘Sproket’s greatest hits’ but it is intended to look back over my past work while, hopefully, continuing my journey to be a better painter. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AiCI3Xn98ZoMbY6RiuwcUKGgOOvd9nlPevQ6ailNzNBnMSanVYQ6xC-5Rp_XK8CdbvjgA8erbzEo4zSXf1t9VAdDTWKqIjie1B52ucJfDO2vgzSsWCb2odJx05XjpveivSh8q31SYQzi/s900/P30+influences.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AiCI3Xn98ZoMbY6RiuwcUKGgOOvd9nlPevQ6ailNzNBnMSanVYQ6xC-5Rp_XK8CdbvjgA8erbzEo4zSXf1t9VAdDTWKqIjie1B52ucJfDO2vgzSsWCb2odJx05XjpveivSh8q31SYQzi/w371-h400/P30+influences.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><br />I think I’m off to a good start but there is a long way to go yet! <br /><br /></p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-77822568074001007502021-02-05T16:15:00.001+00:002021-02-05T16:15:52.717+00:00Project P30 - Part 7<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeSeY-0yCR7vzHmH-5zIeTf17VVxBcXIXi-aJkbkjUdY-Oz_KNBW9XanFievCdK9F3GrkOgEwq3pB_LUppu1EaH9RKjiwr16ZBTutJBb0hHjfsioC0usWLmYZrLKSZGItkoqmfE9xBLATu/s900/P30+finished+sculpt1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeSeY-0yCR7vzHmH-5zIeTf17VVxBcXIXi-aJkbkjUdY-Oz_KNBW9XanFievCdK9F3GrkOgEwq3pB_LUppu1EaH9RKjiwr16ZBTutJBb0hHjfsioC0usWLmYZrLKSZGItkoqmfE9xBLATu/w371-h400/P30+finished+sculpt1.jpg" width="371" /></a> <br /></p><p>So here we are in 2021 and let’s all hope it’s a better year than 2020! For the last few months I’ve been very quiet with regards to painting sculpting and being online because I simply wasn’t ‘in the mood’. That’s not to say I was down or depressed but rather my energy and enthusiasm were directed elsewhere. I rediscovered my love for Lego and spent a lot of my time building a version of Hogwarts Castle to sit on the top shelf of my desk. I didn’t especially need a new hobby but lockdown seemed like a good time to start one. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcinPShU-gndCxxsqVQuSN53TQShOdFEv0gU5ocoGAsssPy1hsh9xjaceXSjGC9qO9pMXycyiZVp9JBa21tpd355siiwmaFAU_nufAllIgauuAPIvpr9Od8wgmihyphenhyphenbFaK2UXGkIp4N99WA/s1200/IMG_5492.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcinPShU-gndCxxsqVQuSN53TQShOdFEv0gU5ocoGAsssPy1hsh9xjaceXSjGC9qO9pMXycyiZVp9JBa21tpd355siiwmaFAU_nufAllIgauuAPIvpr9Od8wgmihyphenhyphenbFaK2UXGkIp4N99WA/w400-h300/IMG_5492.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p><br />I chose a crazy time to put my tank onto the back burner because I was on the verge of completing the construction/sculpting phase. However, I think this pause proved to be an unexpectedly good thing because this was exactly the right time to stop and think. Not that I haven’t spent an awful lot of time thinking about this model already, but this was different. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkLQIKGtwsDhHfiUH0clpSEHhJ-2OMaDCYwXcldnNJh9NO6tXF7CB_pRk1Uyd1MN7QVEzQdVV36JLs2P-oX9uOcc8FhX7bT0EmFsSijUNgoTflXLrIv-dX1J_XqMK4WQtuod_ZOdGnXDW/s900/P30+finished+sculpt3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkLQIKGtwsDhHfiUH0clpSEHhJ-2OMaDCYwXcldnNJh9NO6tXF7CB_pRk1Uyd1MN7QVEzQdVV36JLs2P-oX9uOcc8FhX7bT0EmFsSijUNgoTflXLrIv-dX1J_XqMK4WQtuod_ZOdGnXDW/w371-h400/P30+finished+sculpt3.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDfBPqalEpreU6JdoqOZ2YnWuoTqdOkXgz0VVIE9JtoM5GTBwddOhlaQv29a9mZnKQf2gRqZaEU4g8mAVU2J9psvR5EUygL0H8pHtPF6gPylzTcCyTpny5O5i_GBQiL4xRNbHuyi-wuNb/s900/P30+finished+sculpt2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="835" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDfBPqalEpreU6JdoqOZ2YnWuoTqdOkXgz0VVIE9JtoM5GTBwddOhlaQv29a9mZnKQf2gRqZaEU4g8mAVU2J9psvR5EUygL0H8pHtPF6gPylzTcCyTpny5O5i_GBQiL4xRNbHuyi-wuNb/w371-h400/P30+finished+sculpt2.jpg" width="371" /></a><br /></div><p>Up to this point my design for the tank had existed as an idea but not a completed three-dimensional object. But now I was able to have the entire model in my hands and, as a result, my plans began to evolve. <br /><br />With the addition of the long awaited chimneys I finally had the overall composition fixed. This meant that I was able to consider all the elements of the model in context. I quickly decided to adjust the angle of the arm swinging the bell. By doing this I was able to raise the bell up. It was a relatively simple change but it opens up the overall composition and makes the pose look more active. After all, if your model is ringing a dirty great bell you want it to look like its giving it some welly! </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9K1pP3WKwZNKCBetP4c8vZkobmtS-EjXd30f_st-9EnN0HVAhZac2KSoKdL8cu5VWmYA4GvsuQdVb9a6gYntpWrbmkw65pWXPHXzwuZ2NXCoGn7nBu22OhxC0wsf3Uzj212_acWh3_x5s/s835/P30+new+arm.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="835" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9K1pP3WKwZNKCBetP4c8vZkobmtS-EjXd30f_st-9EnN0HVAhZac2KSoKdL8cu5VWmYA4GvsuQdVb9a6gYntpWrbmkw65pWXPHXzwuZ2NXCoGn7nBu22OhxC0wsf3Uzj212_acWh3_x5s/w400-h269/P30+new+arm.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p>My idea had been to paint an updated version of my 1990 Nurgle Predator’s paint scheme. It would consist of a stippled green flesh tone with metallic details. However, I began to feel that this would not be enough. Regardless of how well I painted the model I think it would look very basic in the 1990 scheme. <br /><br />Miniature painting has come a long way since 1990 and I need to reflect that in my new paint scheme. I want to create a scheme with more drama and contrast than the old one. The new scheme will reflect the range of materials and surfaces present on the model and most especially the transitions between machine and flesh. These areas will be treated differently in terms of colour and texture and the transitions between them should help to tell the story of a Demon engine manifesting itself as flesh. <br /><br />The next step was to create an initial colour palette. Things will probably change as the project progresses but I need a starting point. The colours in my palette need to fulfil the following roles: <br />Base colour, <br /> Shade, <br /> Highlight, <br /> Mid-tones, <br /> Spot colours,<br /> Nuance colours, <br /> Metallic colours,<br /> Neutrals. <br /><br />Bearing all of this in mind I began by lining up the colours I thought I might use. I then set about testing different combinations in my notebook. You can see my test swatches in the photo below. The first is at the bottom and they progress up the page. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPlcvphm3ARV_1bBAOWvQZGAmGIgXu8qYtOwK5zSnSVXFEXKKTy6zmx0ZdCw9-fFb2HON-IomXN04CSfHeB-qtzdOGFY8FIQwzLKf0IjdggViKqoC0mpe5a13TMrlRQQr8tJIhXCJxiUZh/s900/P30+colour+test.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="675" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPlcvphm3ARV_1bBAOWvQZGAmGIgXu8qYtOwK5zSnSVXFEXKKTy6zmx0ZdCw9-fFb2HON-IomXN04CSfHeB-qtzdOGFY8FIQwzLKf0IjdggViKqoC0mpe5a13TMrlRQQr8tJIhXCJxiUZh/w300-h400/P30+colour+test.jpg" width="300" /></a><br /></div><p>As you can see, it was during this process that I moved away from my mostly green 1990 colour palette. My new palette gradually became more varied and saturated as my ideas developed. I’ve decided to create a much paler flesh tone than I’d initially planned and graduate this into a dark (almost black) colour on the tank parts. I will also use a cooler palette of greens than I did on my old tank. The overall colour palette will have a lot more variety than my 1990 one but this is a large model and it can take it. <br /><br />The next step was to paint a full-page colour swatch to see all my colours together. My initial reaction was to realize how similar this scheme looks to the one I used on Gutrot Spume. However this is a misleading impression. It doesn’t reflect the intended paint scheme in terms of the relative proportions of the colours or how the colours will mix together. Many of the subtler relationships between the colours will have to be resolved during painting. I think my colour selection will give me a good starting point to work from but it’s important to be flexible! </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLqyAFLchu278HJcK-yyvZ5Fulfc-gmeS4MMbTSgMINiwoyIk15BAq_ok4Cuo0LCqnyhGrG8VT7Rtb2-m-0uIk4pNdcGuYc94ArVLwK_eP0r9T9zFDpyU6CmZ_E6B1Cj_LfnTw78Fep2U/s1200/P30+swatch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLqyAFLchu278HJcK-yyvZ5Fulfc-gmeS4MMbTSgMINiwoyIk15BAq_ok4Cuo0LCqnyhGrG8VT7Rtb2-m-0uIk4pNdcGuYc94ArVLwK_eP0r9T9zFDpyU6CmZ_E6B1Cj_LfnTw78Fep2U/w400-h300/P30+swatch.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p><br />My tank is now in the final stages of preparation for painting. I’ve photographed it for lighting reference. Washed it to remove any dust and grease, left over from its construction, and mounted it onto a painting handle. The final bit of preparation is to give it a light spraying of primer. <br /><br /> Then, finally, I will begin painting the tank! </p><p><br /></p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-36943850356528578652020-10-06T16:39:00.000+01:002020-10-06T16:39:34.846+01:00Project P30 - Part 6. Back to business. <p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmK6CRR-oQXCNPKocGs-kbq17gEupHWfP8vSUoxLXU9zpVpmmGUhoWJpODP12M4anRUP8EEZ3IBbJkQScc20ZtSmyHYOweeXv1Z71w-pf2dyU1nd0rWMYhsCskeZUT3UEAgA6KtEUK8q1/s900/tank+back1f.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmK6CRR-oQXCNPKocGs-kbq17gEupHWfP8vSUoxLXU9zpVpmmGUhoWJpODP12M4anRUP8EEZ3IBbJkQScc20ZtSmyHYOweeXv1Z71w-pf2dyU1nd0rWMYhsCskeZUT3UEAgA6KtEUK8q1/w400-h400/tank+back1f.jpg" width="400" /></a> </p><p>It’s been just over a year since I last posted anything about my Nurgle Tank Project. I had, of course, no idea of just how turbulent and troubled that year was going to be and all my, and everybody else’s, plans were turned upside-down! However the Tank was not forgotten and the project was on hold while other things took priority. It’s been sat on my desk all that time and I’ve often given it some serous consideration. Not least while painting the Kastelan Robot because I can now confess that the focus on extreme dirt, damage and decay that I put into the Kastelan, was in preparation for painting my Tank. <br /><br />But before I can get (finally) down to painting the Tank I have to finish building it. This involves resolving the back of the model and, although I had a vague notion that it would involve chimneys and an engine, I was uncertain of exactly how to proceed. In truth I was dithering! <br /><br />The answer was to break out the blu tack and experiment with the parts I was considering. My initial option was to have two chimneys bursting out of the Tank’s back as shown below. I liked this very much but it didn’t feel quite right. </p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGETweWgKjNJS-yOhUBcPq3WLUcX3lDsO9LKjb_15uNdIpdNuvWnvqXUboMAfXLfBDQ2jsClRcQmF8H-ggFy7l7vFgETDW3AkKzsJs3W1j9Br4Tnfs9QmdixxmeONKzm1NAWhesVPbj3Kt/s900/P30+1h.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGETweWgKjNJS-yOhUBcPq3WLUcX3lDsO9LKjb_15uNdIpdNuvWnvqXUboMAfXLfBDQ2jsClRcQmF8H-ggFy7l7vFgETDW3AkKzsJs3W1j9Br4Tnfs9QmdixxmeONKzm1NAWhesVPbj3Kt/w400-h400/P30+1h.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZIfjYXdmXHUCMhu5jnujMPmdrzfTuN-06iJY782YaUsFviwzTSc6bad2GbDsv05swGFnHW1PCExr6ZB0QkBLE_b-zLsXIPA9ajZgL8yYXhWggmmWaev7RlcFsUuEigPtPLkwwqKXeGPN/s900/P30+1f.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZIfjYXdmXHUCMhu5jnujMPmdrzfTuN-06iJY782YaUsFviwzTSc6bad2GbDsv05swGFnHW1PCExr6ZB0QkBLE_b-zLsXIPA9ajZgL8yYXhWggmmWaev7RlcFsUuEigPtPLkwwqKXeGPN/w400-h400/P30+1f.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p>I definitely wanted to use the chimneys but I also wanted to have a bit more of an engine element to the rear. My gut feeling was that, in addition to the chimneys, I wanted some sort of exhaust and something that looked like it might be a fuel tank or boiler. So I continued to experiment with a combination of elements some can be seen below.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3eEc5TFeEGv-e3cTPPDiPbHf7fP2e0BGxJEquz0YFESCBa592nIE8j2-_o0ibspdnw9AXrn-4jF6s_Q8godx6K1-uGWDw_d8HHsigm4ICbkYuX3QuCYT2UwClJcQMpNIZR-OBqzh93a1t/s900/tank+back1h.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3eEc5TFeEGv-e3cTPPDiPbHf7fP2e0BGxJEquz0YFESCBa592nIE8j2-_o0ibspdnw9AXrn-4jF6s_Q8godx6K1-uGWDw_d8HHsigm4ICbkYuX3QuCYT2UwClJcQMpNIZR-OBqzh93a1t/w400-h400/tank+back1h.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUazC1_vQCCrfYrEH4LqgMhHPZkPLBp_TPs9sjKxLZ4f58QBmhmQGbx1XpEIt0JWv7wKEdxD_GcH3R_LABL6OY9Zh-w_-kQMhHbGdlEWeZj9NNUMP47nZNpwLvHTRkyfu36yASrsd0UTQ7/s900/tank+back1i.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUazC1_vQCCrfYrEH4LqgMhHPZkPLBp_TPs9sjKxLZ4f58QBmhmQGbx1XpEIt0JWv7wKEdxD_GcH3R_LABL6OY9Zh-w_-kQMhHbGdlEWeZj9NNUMP47nZNpwLvHTRkyfu36yASrsd0UTQ7/w400-h400/tank+back1i.jpg" width="400" /></a> </p><p>The part I chose for this was a section from a dome in the Alchomite Stack kit. I’d considered this part right at the start of the project but thought it too big to use. Now, with more of the model constructed, I could see how it would perfectly match the existing curvature of the body I was building. But with this element selected the chimneys would now be far too big and bulky. The solution was to cut the chimneys down into smaller elements. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjReJAVWWnTyxEO79B-eMOdwZ6pYvq28A0L5klgmlGOkotur-OIg4cSOhDQm_yf0d75Kn1zBpJZisTc13jf9hZwFErjSe_jukXd8Nw82-fVkHHGB4369AIlX-agO4n7Q-mPjgdspBNtPBCm/s900/tank+back1b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjReJAVWWnTyxEO79B-eMOdwZ6pYvq28A0L5klgmlGOkotur-OIg4cSOhDQm_yf0d75Kn1zBpJZisTc13jf9hZwFErjSe_jukXd8Nw82-fVkHHGB4369AIlX-agO4n7Q-mPjgdspBNtPBCm/w400-h400/tank+back1b.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiabVV0sdRPc09vth4Q6vB70VTMiZxeJan7vlUBg9Wztiz2J5TlR38cf4C6PACtK6rI7hToPrGIKfEDXzCgUdetewRicltQ_sno_bfq3mvP0p5ZlNK0v-UYUSskZvxzK0jZ_9Pds-mu71v/s900/tank+back1a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiabVV0sdRPc09vth4Q6vB70VTMiZxeJan7vlUBg9Wztiz2J5TlR38cf4C6PACtK6rI7hToPrGIKfEDXzCgUdetewRicltQ_sno_bfq3mvP0p5ZlNK0v-UYUSskZvxzK0jZ_9Pds-mu71v/w400-h400/tank+back1a.jpg" width="400" /></a><br /></p><p>The cut-down chimneys are, in my opinion, a better fit with the new back section. The two large chimneys have become three smaller ones and I prefer the asymmetrical arrangement, which creates a more interesting composition of the elements at the back of the model. Three is, of course, a very Nurgle friendly number! <br /><br />With my choice finally made I got on with the job of putting everything together properly. To do this I had to cut away a large section of the back using my Dremmel. This was an unpleasant job and had to be done very carefully to avoid cutting away too much material. However, the cautious approach paid off because I managed to achieve a near perfect fit. <br /><br />Rather than trying to create some sort of smooth transition between the flesh and the metal, I decided upon a bubbly molten sort of texture for the flesh where it’s engulfing the engine section. This matches other parts of the model and keeps to a consistent palette of textures. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Wnwi1S78ObYPEv9HV4vY47N2UcW9CKMJccXCNqg7BIFsv-pIYKaTg4jeT3bOqP6OwsAidJMysDCEFeEaVJLqqdSVaZy89EbbrG8CfgsWZh2f9_y0b2CVdQTvxGmSBTncv4AQ5Jr0CjUW/s900/tank+back1e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Wnwi1S78ObYPEv9HV4vY47N2UcW9CKMJccXCNqg7BIFsv-pIYKaTg4jeT3bOqP6OwsAidJMysDCEFeEaVJLqqdSVaZy89EbbrG8CfgsWZh2f9_y0b2CVdQTvxGmSBTncv4AQ5Jr0CjUW/w400-h400/tank+back1e.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1XImU05E5jpoaoYQBHEabpD0VsQ_tZRtV8jxpAeLNkdDsQj5o8jwKyRolzBv8t45tBbwqtYoxujp4Uidu8VPA9eSyNg_tRlWM6h6qXvrXPOYuWMp3snqemnwzvR_DPcM6MBgUg5-qKzRb/s900/tank+back1d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1XImU05E5jpoaoYQBHEabpD0VsQ_tZRtV8jxpAeLNkdDsQj5o8jwKyRolzBv8t45tBbwqtYoxujp4Uidu8VPA9eSyNg_tRlWM6h6qXvrXPOYuWMp3snqemnwzvR_DPcM6MBgUg5-qKzRb/w400-h400/tank+back1d.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSurDlyp-uNEO6K7GJK5d3pL-3ywP_oiJUEYfAASMIpBmzbxZlSmK_046CRZV-LOVS66RXF4h4OrK44LuCwWNR8yzV1QAwfgn2TmD_A2VYbnnztZFy9Bg5jHaft18s9DUuo0JoFdUeESBa/s900/tank+back1c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSurDlyp-uNEO6K7GJK5d3pL-3ywP_oiJUEYfAASMIpBmzbxZlSmK_046CRZV-LOVS66RXF4h4OrK44LuCwWNR8yzV1QAwfgn2TmD_A2VYbnnztZFy9Bg5jHaft18s9DUuo0JoFdUeESBa/w400-h400/tank+back1c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p> That’s where I’m now at with this model. The next step is to incorporate
the chimneys and, although it’s likely to be a fiddly job, I’m looking
forward to it. After a long hiatus Project P30 is rolling forward again!
</p><p><br /></p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-13265810559679665572020-09-21T18:07:00.001+01:002020-09-21T18:07:36.329+01:00Basing the Kastelan Robot… oops I did it again! <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2ZnGVh-AQoqFfhuPxAlC-tiI6CXhBdXWvTurScqY2P6FzGDzMf4tmMcQbvEvZPdXi6kZ4zVTMUFtf29kkZx-fOO0esKIjsDcHxxiLBHfrWREeu4ZxUoFSEervJGpitb3bzgO9I3rTyGY/s776/Finished+Kastelan4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="776" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2ZnGVh-AQoqFfhuPxAlC-tiI6CXhBdXWvTurScqY2P6FzGDzMf4tmMcQbvEvZPdXi6kZ4zVTMUFtf29kkZx-fOO0esKIjsDcHxxiLBHfrWREeu4ZxUoFSEervJGpitb3bzgO9I3rTyGY/w400-h400/Finished+Kastelan4.jpg" width="400" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The Kastelan Robot was painted as a demonstration model for my new weathering workshop. As such I hadn’t planned on basing the model. However, as the project progressed the model was turning out very nicely and it seemed like a wasted opportunity not to put it onto a base. So I began to consider my options and in the end I came down to just two: <br /></div><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Fix the model onto a plain plastic gaming base, possibly with some minimal terrain detail. This basic option would serve the models function as a demonstration piece; or, </li><li>Build up a more elaborate base to create an environment and narrative for the model. This would have the added advantage of turning the model into a potential competition piece. </li></ol><p>Let’s be honest option two was always going to win out as that’s what I always end up doing. But I did seriously consider option one. <br /><br />I think it’s best practice to consider your basing options right at the start of a project. That way your ideas for the environment and narrative can play a part in the development of the overall scheme. However, though not perfect, it is possible to paint a model and then think up a base for it. <br /><br />The model had been painted to demonstrate weathering so I wanted to continue with this approach and feature some heavily weathered architectural elements on the base. I decided to build the majority of my base using Games Workshop’s Sector Imperialis Administratum kit. <br /><br />My starting point was one of the broken columns and I built out from this using a selection of other ruinous elements. I wanted to have the Kastelan Robot framed by a combination of broken arches and windows. By using one of GW’s own kits I would also be setting my Robot in an apropriate environment. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZkEiXp-dq_1WlwBjqKDo4NcJKRJPm9qweDwuVs5Og7th8fHSzzwJiOeiHxkrjAwLpcRvBY3Xp_r0dXD0pxYztdS_wzS8Zl_p0WRGf3TjUqASypgTUyvZwvL58-NO-JPjB3Go_SdalBLDF/s800/base1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZkEiXp-dq_1WlwBjqKDo4NcJKRJPm9qweDwuVs5Og7th8fHSzzwJiOeiHxkrjAwLpcRvBY3Xp_r0dXD0pxYztdS_wzS8Zl_p0WRGf3TjUqASypgTUyvZwvL58-NO-JPjB3Go_SdalBLDF/w400-h640/base1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p> Instead of using a plain gaming base I chose one of the Sector Mechanicus bases and then built a raised floor above this to give the base some extra depth. The entire base was then finished off with some dirt and rubble. <br /><br />I was quite pleased with the resulting base. But please take note of my use of the word ‘quite’. I had a few doubts about the overall proportions and composition of my base. This is in no small part down to the base being something of an afterthought to the painted model. However, I went ahead and began painting. <br /><br />As usual I painted my base using the same palette of colours as the model but switched around the proportions of those colours. For example, I used a base/shade colour of Rhinox Hide but switched around the green and off white so that, on the base, the green was a dominant colour while the off white would only feature on the scattered skulls. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4OiblJXFacNX4ygoXU4cpTyPIZOev03sZxTEokxowz_9U_NCzXqq-SxsD9u61Rw85M2ypUEJMm-yiRgBk37qu7o5XkCH74MwdLxa90ds2Loi9yLecI2F-myBIPJSV2t4x8-WcmnjXau6e/s800/base2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4OiblJXFacNX4ygoXU4cpTyPIZOev03sZxTEokxowz_9U_NCzXqq-SxsD9u61Rw85M2ypUEJMm-yiRgBk37qu7o5XkCH74MwdLxa90ds2Loi9yLecI2F-myBIPJSV2t4x8-WcmnjXau6e/w400-h640/base2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Painting was off to an OK start but my nagging doubts were now in full flow! Something about the base just felt wrong to me. It was time to stop work and think very carefully. If you are a long time follower of this blog you’ve probably guessed exactly where this is all going because we now get to the ‘oops I did it again’ bit. <br /><br />The overall composition was too busy, obscured the Robot from several angles and was in danger of overpowering the model. In addition the design looked slightly clumsy and inelegant. I also felt that my decision to use pre-made building elements was a bit lazy and had influenced my design choices too much. <br /><br />My solution was to start over again. This time I would construct a far simpler base that was less reliant on the Sector Imperialis Administratum kit. Construction began in the same way as the first base with a column. But the new base would not feature any of the wall or window elements. Instead I used plaster and Milliput to build a surface of broken slabs and rubble. I used a few bits of window frame from the building as further wreckage that, along with the column, would frame the Robot. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgybbf6HPCRNHc84o-D0kxGmMNiNTy_yoIzwX9hUNHgtqd_byZZs22ZrkeBQgEZKM_zVOO4v3Sq8hMojqZz8M5cHkRRzF9Wws1rI3SMC4QlwfRee3iPxcXVgT_pakRp82Z6TRSOYxRFAPnC/s800/base3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgybbf6HPCRNHc84o-D0kxGmMNiNTy_yoIzwX9hUNHgtqd_byZZs22ZrkeBQgEZKM_zVOO4v3Sq8hMojqZz8M5cHkRRzF9Wws1rI3SMC4QlwfRee3iPxcXVgT_pakRp82Z6TRSOYxRFAPnC/w400-h640/base3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Straight away I was much happier with this more streamlined approach and, once I began painting, I found a whole new energy and enthusiasm for the project. <br /><br />After painting the base, I pinned my Kastelan onto it and began work on the finishing touches. These consisted of the inevitable skulls and grass tufts but also some barbed wire to help give the base the feel of a warzone. The very last thing was the addition of some fine dirt and rubble around the feet and some subtle brown washes on the green slabs. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTKrIfHx8LWatOKZrs-bv_9h81iNhyphenhyphen0oaqFZHpAfCCHp5C8OUVmOfvRvlcn-Uiem-pEoQ1EEgDkimBGrc3M1cohkxEFETmil-xTOGXTNiVnBPp7H4kilJcr5KII72SQgldQlPgei66_CK/s900/Finished+Kastelan1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="776" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTKrIfHx8LWatOKZrs-bv_9h81iNhyphenhyphen0oaqFZHpAfCCHp5C8OUVmOfvRvlcn-Uiem-pEoQ1EEgDkimBGrc3M1cohkxEFETmil-xTOGXTNiVnBPp7H4kilJcr5KII72SQgldQlPgei66_CK/w552-h640/Finished+Kastelan1.jpg" width="552" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPcj5tXDajedOoZWfk-GZALHtaAoXgPyUTfZPT3xkm-XgxIIdzB-qUVh3XLB-p9b9jymZDDdfJwIcbjPvK2ZyOUJfUyNTtI5s-GTXNLdEX3KM_f6jSpLZg6OHhVm64prAjyK8c8I8WqLP/s900/Finished+Kastelan2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="776" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPcj5tXDajedOoZWfk-GZALHtaAoXgPyUTfZPT3xkm-XgxIIdzB-qUVh3XLB-p9b9jymZDDdfJwIcbjPvK2ZyOUJfUyNTtI5s-GTXNLdEX3KM_f6jSpLZg6OHhVm64prAjyK8c8I8WqLP/w552-h640/Finished+Kastelan2.jpg" width="552" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmpoWGLw1yukXin4M2-T0QoD2qSVXhIw5cvIf1MhR6ZFM5rCKBiBvMjTnSCrXGItQzZXqTqdoX5EhxYbdjTWsjeN75uFmw7Zo6rdMwD8_9_MqQiPFwZWSmuO3CsChCcUNOtOznCZYTUoB7/s900/Finished+Kastelan3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="776" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmpoWGLw1yukXin4M2-T0QoD2qSVXhIw5cvIf1MhR6ZFM5rCKBiBvMjTnSCrXGItQzZXqTqdoX5EhxYbdjTWsjeN75uFmw7Zo6rdMwD8_9_MqQiPFwZWSmuO3CsChCcUNOtOznCZYTUoB7/w552-h640/Finished+Kastelan3.jpg" width="552" /></a></div><p>So once again I went over the top with my basing plans and then had to rein my ideas in. This doesn’t bother me too much because I think it’s preferable to tone down an OTT design than it is to have to go the other way. <br /><br />The finished base feels like the same sort of environment that I tried to create with my first attempt; but it’s now done more simply and I think it’s more effective for it! <br /><br />At the start of this post I mentioned my new weathering workshop. Sadly the current situation with Covid-19 means that I’ve had to cancel all of my workshop dates this year. I thought very hard about this but with the best will in the world, and as I have asthma, there is no way I could deliver a workshop to the standard I expect while keeping socially distanced. <br /><br />Hopefully we can all get back to meeting at workshops and competitions some time next year but, in the meantime, <b>let’s keep safe and keep painting!</b></p><p><b> </b> </p>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-14441628013948950272020-08-04T14:01:00.001+01:002020-08-04T14:03:01.353+01:00Weathering a Kastelan Robot – Part 2. When lockdown started I assumed it would result in lots of painting time. But that isn’t the way things went for me. In reality navigating life in lockdown was a lot more complicated than anticipated and the past few months have seen a mix of highs and lows. <br /><br /><div>I decided to forget any pretentions of deadlines or schedules and take time out from blogging. I’ve spent my time reading, cooking, gardening, building Lego and (when I fancied it) painting my Kastelan. All in all it was a time to pause and reflect. However, as lockdown has eased and the pace of life has picked-up a little, I’ve begun painting more often and that has had results. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETf7hxVOOBGrmBMOJ_NghnGs6lZ46dQdrCfoWrOZQLK0EcWujoao_NTn_dn2bLQjaiLk73kB92FxYMwxZTh2VaSKsVwRpGvHKyK0LWqzQ-kLG3XwF0NPm5bVWTnrfkbrCh3_hLeLulVeG/s801/kastelan14a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="801" height="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETf7hxVOOBGrmBMOJ_NghnGs6lZ46dQdrCfoWrOZQLK0EcWujoao_NTn_dn2bLQjaiLk73kB92FxYMwxZTh2VaSKsVwRpGvHKyK0LWqzQ-kLG3XwF0NPm5bVWTnrfkbrCh3_hLeLulVeG/w512-h511/kastelan14a.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNTeh0JEdG3CCD9cBICRskv7Y8xctL4OvytUr-yrISK8dNZxwxFPdT-L2XqODA04Z-FUI7IGcfnnTG_5pFgZncQskbxwW9S3JsZC-XLrMNq2sO9pDsa2ZMRpTYcPQ2bjGUSlycltCMs2Rq/s801/kastelan14b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="801" height="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNTeh0JEdG3CCD9cBICRskv7Y8xctL4OvytUr-yrISK8dNZxwxFPdT-L2XqODA04Z-FUI7IGcfnnTG_5pFgZncQskbxwW9S3JsZC-XLrMNq2sO9pDsa2ZMRpTYcPQ2bjGUSlycltCMs2Rq/w512-h511/kastelan14b.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsZ4AAcorhzlIxWVfcfUAFBB6zrZqJ0IsmR2bi63GM2WLLZMiIrA5TTcCzUkityFAt9MmvvFz_mj6-W7yJ_KwlVduFKakruNE1GSg94E4psTGJd0sz-m4FLls5cxMDxoWjyjgF17RvXxI/s801/kastelan14c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="801" height="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsZ4AAcorhzlIxWVfcfUAFBB6zrZqJ0IsmR2bi63GM2WLLZMiIrA5TTcCzUkityFAt9MmvvFz_mj6-W7yJ_KwlVduFKakruNE1GSg94E4psTGJd0sz-m4FLls5cxMDxoWjyjgF17RvXxI/w512-h511/kastelan14c.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGomoIJLCYYaPZKAkgLbFliGC1_WRkxw8fOqXRhUzhRd9FPbo1nTiqepennKl2pxP5pt14Y7HyrGh4I9-RoA6-ws7jvi4XXJ5AkyRGoEOeei4lGmyGzbqREGTETL4maPhhWnO47OEbd319/s801/kastelan14d.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="801" height="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGomoIJLCYYaPZKAkgLbFliGC1_WRkxw8fOqXRhUzhRd9FPbo1nTiqepennKl2pxP5pt14Y7HyrGh4I9-RoA6-ws7jvi4XXJ5AkyRGoEOeei4lGmyGzbqREGTETL4maPhhWnO47OEbd319/w512-h511/kastelan14d.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxfggcH9F8eMGDlkgg4zTEgSkW-2bJkkZxWVj5xB48M4KdeyRKFuJsk-CmVJMaX-FdaKGddIKqnOxTcCND3Mzq9dthFP4VVRJrDkcKg1edZEITQU_lml_-UT9ZqIe6fXNktZw1qKViHAg9/s801/kastelan14e.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="801" height="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxfggcH9F8eMGDlkgg4zTEgSkW-2bJkkZxWVj5xB48M4KdeyRKFuJsk-CmVJMaX-FdaKGddIKqnOxTcCND3Mzq9dthFP4VVRJrDkcKg1edZEITQU_lml_-UT9ZqIe6fXNktZw1qKViHAg9/w512-h511/kastelan14e.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLOiAk1ci5HTJOapkDd5h6wfKNErTEjTNp69gPgLxHI2lvA87aKqSnUZj11f5VL5epizIPnvG0GVfDRH_qlsOrj57AFAPsQIlPjCZEY3t4780PsAHHSmbp5IeRk8Ki-hVPKRg6Gc2JNql/s801/kastelan14f.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="801" height="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLOiAk1ci5HTJOapkDd5h6wfKNErTEjTNp69gPgLxHI2lvA87aKqSnUZj11f5VL5epizIPnvG0GVfDRH_qlsOrj57AFAPsQIlPjCZEY3t4780PsAHHSmbp5IeRk8Ki-hVPKRg6Gc2JNql/w512-h511/kastelan14f.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyciIksSp3-fWtejS__0FUffCt17jaRkM-HmQt-BBaUnPwZhst117D-568LKAlCkUaPdSCIv-y_ctA6bFpNOzl3jEhpOlGdaOpnASm1lKocHr9lzON5IQNvbsuF4v16Ckpsn0W33fAQl46/s801/kastelan14g.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="801" height="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyciIksSp3-fWtejS__0FUffCt17jaRkM-HmQt-BBaUnPwZhst117D-568LKAlCkUaPdSCIv-y_ctA6bFpNOzl3jEhpOlGdaOpnASm1lKocHr9lzON5IQNvbsuF4v16Ckpsn0W33fAQl46/w512-h511/kastelan14g.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The Kastelan is finally finished and it’s about time too! I’ve very much enjoyed the process of painting this model. It’s given me an opportunity to develop my own approach to dirt, damage and corrosion. I started working on the Kastelan in March but it feels like I’ve been at it far longer. On top of that I painted this model during a difficult time in my life so it’s very rewarding to bring things to a satisfying conclusion. <br /><br />As this stage of the project comes to an end I’ve been able to start looking forward and, in my head at least, I’m getting my future hobby schedule sorted out. The Kastelan needs a base and I’ve already begun to work on it so I can, hopefully, keep the momentum going. I will be posting a series of detailed tutorials on the painting techniques I used to create the dirt, damage and corrosion. <br /><br /><div>But before anything else I must write and post the third, final and, (in my view) most important, part of my series on creating a colour scheme. In <a href="https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2020/04/creating-colour-scheme-part-1-of-3.html" target="_blank">part one</a> I looked at <b>what</b> to do with colour via an understanding of colour theory. In <a href="https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2020/05/creating-colour-scheme-part-2-of-3.html" target="_blank">part two</a> I showed <b>how</b> to do it by creating a colour palette. But now I need to talk about the rationale behind <b>why</b> we do those things. The reasons can be varied and often hard to pin down but without them all the theory and technique is meaningless! <br /></div><div><br /></div>David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-88335910267206580492020-05-14T16:54:00.003+01:002020-05-14T16:54:44.728+01:00Creating a colour scheme. Part 2 of 3. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuCjB5i78WQyXk7dlPJflCUfMA6ThM5Eyt_NJvx56pA1If2c9W2uZC-cIaHYs8ZFLj15TC2OE2xyrccH75JRl7G7gC4_p1bKyi-_t-8JkMyvgtKIFBcH7xb7TX8DMW-_eCQIKUPcQ-S0n/s1600/titlepic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="800" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuCjB5i78WQyXk7dlPJflCUfMA6ThM5Eyt_NJvx56pA1If2c9W2uZC-cIaHYs8ZFLj15TC2OE2xyrccH75JRl7G7gC4_p1bKyi-_t-8JkMyvgtKIFBcH7xb7TX8DMW-_eCQIKUPcQ-S0n/s400/titlepic.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In <a href="https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2020/04/creating-colour-scheme-part-1-of-3.html" target="_blank">Part One</a> I wrote about colour theory, first taking a look at the values, or characteristics, of Hue, Saturation, Tone and Temperature. An understanding of this is key to building a successful colour scheme using colour contrast. <br /><br />This time I’m taking a look at colour schemes and colour palettes and how, from my point of view, they differ from each other. Then I will describe the different roles colour can play within a palette.<br />
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<h3>
What is a colour scheme? </h3>
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When I talk about a colour scheme I’m referring to the overall visual impression created by the colours on a model. There is no limit to how many, or how few, colours can feature in a scheme; but you should be able to understand a colour scheme <b>at a glance</b>. An effective colour scheme can be described in fairly simple terms. <br /><br />If a colour scheme is complex you should still be able to understand its overall nature at a glance with the nuances becoming apparent when you study it more closely. <br /><br />Let’s look at some examples.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigy6X7DDfJo5YrD_E5maSo3EPOQ7pX0A-IdyYpZkjpq74DP-bFPE4_m6_cKMskcuyDILFayLh-lGP7loqgML_Br2cKRmx0Ib6-b9Mlh97XjpvXZ3f5riqE92hK43ZZYfLitQBq3MAo-143/s1600/schemes1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigy6X7DDfJo5YrD_E5maSo3EPOQ7pX0A-IdyYpZkjpq74DP-bFPE4_m6_cKMskcuyDILFayLh-lGP7loqgML_Br2cKRmx0Ib6-b9Mlh97XjpvXZ3f5riqE92hK43ZZYfLitQBq3MAo-143/s320/schemes1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />My Abyssal Warlord has a desaturated blue and yellow colour scheme. <br /><br />Although not directly opposite one another on the colour wheel, blue and yellow are hues with a strong degree of contrast. I have lessened that contrast by desaturating the hues. I further adjusted the nuances by using a relatively cool yellow as it has a slight green tint. Similarly, where I’ve used a more saturated blue it has a greener hue and a darker tone. <br /><br />By adjusting the characteristics of Hue, Saturation, Tone and Temperature, I’ve controlled the colour contrast between the blue and yellow and balanced my colour scheme.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWh4vmZyBkvD0c1ZVeFRl-WnsSkuRozZpxfSGH7zAYr8ZLvvHK6EuWmLEHj0zHILTcBy85XKJX7VP1avnT5kCisyHMDhw0rwvKZedYjlA8GelHKM0mynkh0gqvsE99XanP5u-pQd1_muWD/s1600/schemes2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWh4vmZyBkvD0c1ZVeFRl-WnsSkuRozZpxfSGH7zAYr8ZLvvHK6EuWmLEHj0zHILTcBy85XKJX7VP1avnT5kCisyHMDhw0rwvKZedYjlA8GelHKM0mynkh0gqvsE99XanP5u-pQd1_muWD/s320/schemes2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Gutrot Spume has a saturated green and red colour scheme. <br /><br />This is a bold complementary colour scheme. As I showed in Part 1, I’ve adjusted the saturation and temperature of my colours to bring balance. <br /><br />Another vital element of my scheme are the neutral colours. These help by providing a low contrast backdrop for the reds and greens.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZY5-YqApZrhKwbA8v5xwMlOoDBkJpJuU-7ZHiOjnnoMXkr2RsWF8stkJvFpdsCge39MdCqlXvKy6i3FZYdF-BzAzh3rkDkeRj41YkKMpV3es4244mLM9yH6BLdKnENKgU6UHJVzT1JsCe/s1600/schemes3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZY5-YqApZrhKwbA8v5xwMlOoDBkJpJuU-7ZHiOjnnoMXkr2RsWF8stkJvFpdsCge39MdCqlXvKy6i3FZYdF-BzAzh3rkDkeRj41YkKMpV3es4244mLM9yH6BLdKnENKgU6UHJVzT1JsCe/s320/schemes3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />My Isharan Tidecaster has a scheme of dark, saturated blue/green with contrasting yellow details. <br /><br />The (analogous) blue and green are the main or primary colours of this scheme. The dark, desaturated, yellow is a secondary colour.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTd9OXQGvL9P_twt9HOPNO5TELhSBz1krHVgrNGoAXlW3_zi-AfHXSN4isZrkZZV3iFNa8DLNBIZ9H5aTgcZtJIf_-0TC99iPzBNuIOFlxp3eET2c1V2iLt0BpZgWTrSIRacdV4tEFzHtx/s1600/schemes4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTd9OXQGvL9P_twt9HOPNO5TELhSBz1krHVgrNGoAXlW3_zi-AfHXSN4isZrkZZV3iFNa8DLNBIZ9H5aTgcZtJIf_-0TC99iPzBNuIOFlxp3eET2c1V2iLt0BpZgWTrSIRacdV4tEFzHtx/s320/schemes4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />My Sloppity Bile Piper has a yellow and purple colour scheme. <br /><br />Yellow and purple are complementary colours. Again, by making adjustments to their characteristics, I’ve controlled the nature of their contrast. In addition, yellow is clearly the primary colour in this scheme. Creating a hierarchy of primary, secondary and (sometimes) tertiary colours is another way to bring balance to a scheme. <br /><br />In all the examples above you can clearly see that I’ve used additional colours to those I’ve mentioned but, although they all have a part to play, they are not dominant colours in the scheme, and they are less apparent in the overall visual impression.<br />
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<h3>
Colour hierarchy. </h3>
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In <a href="https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2020/04/creating-colour-scheme-part-1-of-3.html" target="_blank">Part 1</a> I described how having hues of equal saturation and tone will create a clashing effect. Similarly having equal quantities of different colours in a scheme may make it visually confusing. <br /><br />By creating a hierarchy of colours that features a main, or primary colour, in contrast with secondary and tertiary colours, you will create a visually clearer scheme. <br /><br />Your choice of these colours will greatly affect the nature of your scheme. Colour contrast is dependent on context, so the same primary colour may look very different against different combinations of secondary and tertiary colours. Understanding the characteristics of a colour will greatly help in your choice and use of it. <br /><br />Deciding how the colours in a scheme fall in the hierarchy will also alter the final result. In the following illustrations I’ve used the same red, blue and green colour scheme but, in each example, I’ve switched their positions in the hierarchy.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz49bN8GCltgD2fpPvnZj5SDaavalSPIEaOxLBblWPciYl-GKKLAnb2CDEknAWD_KkLmOZec5QFMZ5yljMTrQazrr0s8WkIPbl60iHc8emHmvALMv7Mz4Dai1TBIWX6VWnCzFmLQyhJnSn/s1600/blue-red-green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="241" data-original-width="730" height="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz49bN8GCltgD2fpPvnZj5SDaavalSPIEaOxLBblWPciYl-GKKLAnb2CDEknAWD_KkLmOZec5QFMZ5yljMTrQazrr0s8WkIPbl60iHc8emHmvALMv7Mz4Dai1TBIWX6VWnCzFmLQyhJnSn/s320/blue-red-green.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Used in equal quantities the three colours are rather garish and clashing. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ8ZNcdl-s4TbS0UBJ9lrjqMo9Ri_a9UBnQ1rXcKHmiCRALuEfqS8P6L9t-S4mhPZaO7SejwFRZwtBEI9lvslzUJvhwzAJLgHtJ1ugkiEN20DGIO7yxytS5OJwM8iSucQCzhLb63MuEBUM/s1600/Plagebearer+RED-blue-green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1418" data-original-width="1600" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ8ZNcdl-s4TbS0UBJ9lrjqMo9Ri_a9UBnQ1rXcKHmiCRALuEfqS8P6L9t-S4mhPZaO7SejwFRZwtBEI9lvslzUJvhwzAJLgHtJ1ugkiEN20DGIO7yxytS5OJwM8iSucQCzhLb63MuEBUM/s320/Plagebearer+RED-blue-green.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red (primary) with blue (secondary) and green (tertiary) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0gGB0eud6Xxmt0gqgpeRZdCgmJaNhX9rPsT5jn9fju6k9LxD_DmkianRw7j9jPNWtJ7oPV7F-3f5YrIJK6k3fHLaIyT4pEW8kFLCeq-UCbSPvrM9QHvCMLtBTHd2hoCx05oPKrfROhyphenhyphenhL/s1600/Plagebearer+BLUE-red-green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1418" data-original-width="1600" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0gGB0eud6Xxmt0gqgpeRZdCgmJaNhX9rPsT5jn9fju6k9LxD_DmkianRw7j9jPNWtJ7oPV7F-3f5YrIJK6k3fHLaIyT4pEW8kFLCeq-UCbSPvrM9QHvCMLtBTHd2hoCx05oPKrfROhyphenhyphenhL/s320/Plagebearer+BLUE-red-green.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue (primary) with green (secondary) and red (tertiary) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7WXfzZ3UqLow6t6dEFkOqmBtNbaxfWp1oVcXyC-OCYHG-izmqjTuBQuJvJrr23HxlinWDzqbFNNnT51Q_k_3OZ4WOB0fWEVg3axwmh0jEEn8vIr5vTmz1pRrPZ4M04MwDi5nT1uvVk6o/s1600/Plagebearer+GREEN-red-blue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1418" data-original-width="1600" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7WXfzZ3UqLow6t6dEFkOqmBtNbaxfWp1oVcXyC-OCYHG-izmqjTuBQuJvJrr23HxlinWDzqbFNNnT51Q_k_3OZ4WOB0fWEVg3axwmh0jEEn8vIr5vTmz1pRrPZ4M04MwDi5nT1uvVk6o/s320/Plagebearer+GREEN-red-blue.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green (primary) with red (secondary) and blue (tertiary) </td></tr>
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Although it wasn’t my intention, taken together, the three illustrations feature schemes that could be used for Khorne, Tzeentch and Nurgle themed models, even though they all use the same three colours! This shows just how much colour hierarchy can change the overall appearance of a model.<br />
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<h3>
What is a colour palette?</h3>
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When I talk about a colour palette I’m referring to the actual colour of the paints I use on a model. The colour palette for a model will be closely related to its colour scheme but they are not the same thing! A colour palette is the physical medium I use to create a colour scheme. <br /><br />A palette usually contains more colours than a scheme many of which may not be apparent at a glance. This is because the colours in a palette often have a specific role and may be hidden in the mix of colours or, in the case of a base coat, underneath other colours. Even though they are not always immediately obvious, the colours in a palette should all contribute to the final look in one way or another.<br />
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<h3>
Building a colour palette. </h3>
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The combination of roles within your palette can vary from model to model, but the examples below are those I use most often in my own work: <br />
<ul>
<li>Base colour, </li>
<li> Shade, </li>
<li> Highlight, </li>
<li> Mid-tones, </li>
<li> Spot colours,</li>
<li> Nuance colours, </li>
<li> Metallic colours,</li>
<li> Neutrals. </li>
</ul>
There are no rules about how many, or how few, colours you can have in a palette, however, it’s easier to create a clearer and more cohesive colour scheme if you try to limit the number of colours. To achieve this, it’s helpful to remember that many of the colours in a palette will be suitable for more than one role.<br />
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Once again I’m using Gutrot Spume as an example! Although the colour scheme is a simple red/green contrast, the palette is one of the most varied I’ve ever used. There are many colours on Gutrot that add extra nuance and visual interest to the model without altering the overall scheme. <br /><br />In truth another reason for the huge range of colors is that I was using Scalecolour paints for the first time and was experimenting with unfamiliar colours. Some of the colours above were picked out but hardly used. There was one additional colour that played a major role that isn’t shown, but I will come to that later.<br />
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In the picture above you can see the palette of colours I used to paint my Rockgut Troggoth. Like Gutrot’s, this palette may seem quite large but it includes all the colours used on the Troggoth, the base and the Goblin. <br /><br />The top row shows the colours used for the Trogoth’s flesh tones. The second row shows additional colours used for the rock and dark cloth. The third row is for the metallic colours and washes used on the Goblin’s sickle. The final row shows the colours used for the Goblin’s flesh tones and some of the greenery on the base. <br /><br />That’s the palette but I would describe the scheme as a red/brown and blue/grey scheme with a green spot colour, featuring an overall warm/cool colour contrast. <br /><br />
<h3>
Choosing a base colour. </h3>
<br />A base colour is quite literally the foundation of your paint job and your choice of base colour will have a massive impact on the final result. If your model features light and/or saturated colours, a lighter base colour may be the best option. If you want a dark moody feel then a dark base colour will help. You approach to painting is also a factor, for example, do you prefer to paint from dark to light of vice versa? Or maybe you prefer to start with a mid-tone and work out to the shadows and highlights at the same time.<br />
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<br />I used a light base colour for my frog from Squarg the Frog Rider. I painted the flesh with a series of glazes and the base colour reflects light through these translucent layers. The base is a warm neutral colour (Rakarth Flesh from Games Workshop) which is in harmony with the overall naturalistic colour scheme.<br />
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<br />My Farseer has a dark, almost pure black, base colour. I decided to paint the majority of the Farseer by going from dark to light and, in addition, the dark base created a helpful deep shadow in the hard to reach recesses. When I paint a dark base I usually use the same colour as my shadow colour.<br />
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<br />The base colour for my Troggoth is a mid-tone but, equally important, it is a warm pink hue. This warmth underlies all the flesh tones and adds greatly to the finished look. I’ve also used the base colour in the mid-tones.<br />
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<br />If your model features areas of strong colour contrast you may want to use a different base colour for each area. <br /><br />
<h3>
Using global highlight and shade colours. </h3>
<br />This refers to using one colour for all of your shadows and another for all of your highlights. This doesn’t mean that all the shadows on a model need to be exactly the same colour. Instead it means that they will all have your shade colour in the mix, to a greater or lesser degree. The same principle applies to the highlights. <br /><br />Using global highlight and shade colours unifies a colour scheme and helps to create a feeling of the wider environment your model is situated in. The model, and all of the colours on it, will be lit by the same light, so all of your shadows and highlights should relate to this. Consider two important points: is your character inside or outside and is the overall lighting warm or cool? <br /><br />The temperature of your global highlight and shade colours is the main factor to consider. Different combinations of warm and cool will create very different atmospheres. <br /><br />A common example is a character situated outside with warm highlights from the sunlight and cool shadows reflected from the blue sky.<br />
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<span id="goog_720277146"></span><span id="goog_720277147"></span><br />My earlier models (below) were painted without any global highlight and shade colours. All the reds are shaded with dark red. All the greens are shaded with dark green. And so on. This is a very ‘old school’ approach and can create a less realistic, graphic or even a cartoon-like style. Not that there is anything wrong with that but, if you are going to paint in that style, it should be a conscious choice.<br />
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<h3>
Mid-tones. </h3>
<br />There are no rules about how many colours you can use for your mid-tones and, if you so wish, you could pick a totally different paint colour for each of them. <br /><br />My own preference is to try and use less paint colours in my palette and mix them to create intermediate tones and hues. I also like to incorporate my highlight, shade and base colours into the mid-tones to unify the overall colour scheme. But be careful to avoid over-mixing because this may result in a dull desaturated colour scheme. <br /><br />Once I’ve established the overall tonal range on a model I often go back to my mid-tones to restore any saturation that may have be lost during the painting process. <br /><br />
<h3>
Spot and nuance colours. </h3>
<br />A spot colour can be used to add extra drama and contrast by drawing attention the details on a model. In the overall hierarchy, spot colours are tertiary colours as there will be much less of them than the primary and secondary colours. <br /><br />Nuance colours also add drama and contrast to a palette but are far less obvious than spot colours. I often apply nuance colours as a glaze, or thin layer of paint, giving an extra pop of colour to a shadow or a flesh tone. Very often these nuance colours are in a complimentary hue to the area they are painted on to. I often use them to represent a colour reflected from a nearby surface but, sometimes, they have no obvious source and are simply there to add ‘nuance’ to the scheme!<br />
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<br />In the examples above you can see how I’ve added red and blue/grey nuances to my flesh tones. Adding nuances to flesh tones can enhance the illusion of life in them.<br />
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<br />I’ve added nuances of purple and green to the Tidecaster’s clothing while there is a little blue on the gold armour. The Scourge’s armour and equipment have nuances of orange and blue. <br /><br />
<h3>
Metallics. </h3>
<br />Always consider metallics in the context of your overall scheme. The characteristics of Hue, Saturation, Tone and Temperature apply to metallics as much as to any other colours. <br /><br />
<h3>
Neutrals. </h3>
<br />Strictly speaking, in the context of colour schemes, neutral means “lacking or being without colour” or, in other words, unsaturated with colour. But the characteristics of Hue, Saturation, Tone and Temperature can still be applied to neutral colours. Therefore a better description would be something like “a hue that appears to be without colour.” <br /><br />The neutral colours are black, white and grey. However, there are quite literally many shades (and hues) of grey, and even black and white are more complex than they may at first seem. In reality the term neutral can include a wide range of desaturated colours such as beige, ivory and taupe.<br />
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<br />The tone of a neutral colour is the easiest characteristic to see as it applies to how light or dark a neutral colour is. On the other hand, hue and temperature are sometimes quite hard to tell apart because they can be very subtle. <br /><br />Broadly speaking the more saturated colours are the less neutral they become. However, as is always the case, context is everything and a colour that acts as a neutral within one scheme may not do so in another. <br /><br />When choosing neutrals for a colour palette make sure that their characteristics of Hue, Saturation, Tone and Temperature relate to your overall colour scheme in exactly the way you want them to. Used successfully neutrals are a great foil for other colours and colour contrasts.<br />
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<br />The neutral colours on Gutrot Spume provide a backdrop to the saturated complementary colours.<br />
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<br />The black on my Farseer has a cool desaturated blue/green hue that sets off the more saturated colours. The light grey outer robe adds a strong tonal contrast to the scheme without adding to the hues. However, I’ve used a subtle combination of warm and cool grays on the robe to give it more interest than one type of grey alone. <br /><br />
<h3>
Build your knowledge. </h3>
<br />Over time you’ll discover colours that become your favorite ‘go to’ options and that’s no bad thing. Becoming familiar with a colour and understanding it’s characteristics will enable you to use it to good effect. <br /><br />However, it’s very easy to always use the same familiar colours and get stuck in a creative rut! I think it’s important to experiment and try out new colours in your palettes. Use them alongside your trusted favorites and gradually expand you range of options. <br /><br />
<h3>
Coming next … </h3>
<br />In the final part of this trilogy, I will look at how and why I picked the colour scheme for my Kastelan Robot. <br />
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<br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-85998800224596603962020-04-21T13:16:00.001+01:002020-04-21T13:16:26.654+01:00Creating a Colour scheme. Part 1 of 3 Having decided to write a series of tutorials on my Kastelan Robot I quickly realized that, before I get to all the fancy stuff, I need to go right back to the beginning. Colour is a fundamental part of miniature painting and a good understanding of how colour works is key to creating and controlling contrast.<br />
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No pressure then! <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAl19FABbEDRqCOQglpaEUyeG8AlahFcOduSgENBoHwQptfbdDSQA7kKH349p3Mupjn0WyLv_XxFOT4k56PwmbYxBek4F-OTwLlmLUde1L1dllT5s6ZV8EvHu1MlfnfMJpi977fgwwlHh-/s1600/titlepic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="800" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAl19FABbEDRqCOQglpaEUyeG8AlahFcOduSgENBoHwQptfbdDSQA7kKH349p3Mupjn0WyLv_XxFOT4k56PwmbYxBek4F-OTwLlmLUde1L1dllT5s6ZV8EvHu1MlfnfMJpi977fgwwlHh-/s400/titlepic.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Please note that our (devilishly handsome) model is not picking his nose. <br />He is pondering the mysteries of colour theory. Although this might <br />explain where he get's his snot green from!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_1834103644"></span><br /><br />
<h3>
Colour Theory. </h3>
<br />To be honest this subject could easily fill a book so I’m going to keep things as simple as possible (here’s hoping) and explain my personal approach to colour and colour schemes. <br /><br />That’s a very important point to stress because I’m not claiming that anything I write about here is the ‘only’ or the ‘best’ way of doing things. In the same vein, I’ll try to be clear, concise and consistent with the terminology I use and explain it where necessary. But you may well encounter different terminology from other sources. So please remember this is my way of doing and saying things, no more and no less. <br /><br />First of all we need to understand the nature of any given colour if we are going to use it successfully. To help us do that we can describe a colour in terms of four values or characteristics. They are <b>Hue</b>, <b>Saturation</b>, <b>Tone</b> and <b>Temperature</b>. <br /><br />
<h2>
Hue. </h2>
<br />Red, orange, yellow, green, blue and purple are examples of hues. The order I’ve listed them in relates to their position in the spectrum and on the Colour Wheel. The different hues contrast with one another in various ways depending upon their position on the colour wheel. <br /><br />
<h2>
Saturation. </h2>
<br />This is a term used to describe the intensity of a colour. A saturated colour will be rich and vivid while a desaturated colour will be washed out and pastel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pMOEuDsbVH9n4EEHD_yPbqWlzxe_Vs9pfoEBKwtbZ8BQBuUAA3vMIpmJ2bHEMkPu1iKEHFI-Zd9fl9MfTssJK05QKsYqU6TTid53XM5UU5VSuyeJSPu6oe84Fq1C-rgD6438AovpaiGM/s1600/saturation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="487" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pMOEuDsbVH9n4EEHD_yPbqWlzxe_Vs9pfoEBKwtbZ8BQBuUAA3vMIpmJ2bHEMkPu1iKEHFI-Zd9fl9MfTssJK05QKsYqU6TTid53XM5UU5VSuyeJSPu6oe84Fq1C-rgD6438AovpaiGM/s320/saturation.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h2>
Tone. </h2>
<br />This refers to how light or dark a colour is. <br /><br />
<h2>
Temperature. </h2>
<br />This refers to whether a colour is warm or cool. This can be quite complicated because the relative temperature a colours will be dependent on context. For example while red is most definitely a warm colour a purple/red is cool next to an orange/red. But the Same purple/red would be warm next to a blue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRU1GIAJuOCHLnTxYFP0rsymlYDPo_eW0gmTTzO6PhE5HIkXSvujltUkL4jwfwINWJGkdiw_yyNbLJUJY5i3PT154X95V0upj0vExv7dAq7i-eldSlyHY8TQDESNzxj_0RcQxJcLJ09stJ/s1600/temperature1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="487" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRU1GIAJuOCHLnTxYFP0rsymlYDPo_eW0gmTTzO6PhE5HIkXSvujltUkL4jwfwINWJGkdiw_yyNbLJUJY5i3PT154X95V0upj0vExv7dAq7i-eldSlyHY8TQDESNzxj_0RcQxJcLJ09stJ/s320/temperature1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ01VyGQ-44ntR1D1ZRLAP1C2U3xylCc2lBJ8hBE77DmEuxVZAPFWU9Tahsl2cjdxGGhPHCDQd7j9XU9PDmH_aJQbNOZyRGX1tbJvxocYw4b8wJcYgElG6sTQ2z3mUIrpUS35pOkgIAoOc/s1600/temperature2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="487" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ01VyGQ-44ntR1D1ZRLAP1C2U3xylCc2lBJ8hBE77DmEuxVZAPFWU9Tahsl2cjdxGGhPHCDQd7j9XU9PDmH_aJQbNOZyRGX1tbJvxocYw4b8wJcYgElG6sTQ2z3mUIrpUS35pOkgIAoOc/s320/temperature2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /><b>It’s important to remember that all aspects of colour contrast should be considered in the context of an overall colour palette. </b><br /><br />
<h3>
The Colour Wheel </h3>
<br />The colour wheel is a reference tool that can help us to understand the relationships between different hues. You may well find more complex versions elsewhere but the basic example I’m showing here has served me well since I was 14!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8BxxJNERzsIBFmaIV8s7oW6TTyPaQlkyXB_narqEg-3FJQs3i3jWeHRPNOE6VM2iAZq_AYCa_QWKVf5XHMu4Q0j2bpSTCkUWF1rJ-apQw8PfCTvwQmidXnbksXKF9uFAqf6eT8oRb5wr/s1600/Colour-Wheel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1054" data-original-width="1063" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8BxxJNERzsIBFmaIV8s7oW6TTyPaQlkyXB_narqEg-3FJQs3i3jWeHRPNOE6VM2iAZq_AYCa_QWKVf5XHMu4Q0j2bpSTCkUWF1rJ-apQw8PfCTvwQmidXnbksXKF9uFAqf6eT8oRb5wr/s320/Colour-Wheel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />The hues are arranged around the wheel in a specific order that relates to their position in the spectrum. The three primary colours red, yellow and blue are at equidistant points with the intermediate shades between them. We go from red to yellow via orange, from yellow to blue via green and from blue to red via purple. <br /><br />Adjacent hues are considered to be in harmony with one another. A colour scheme only using hues that sit next to one another on the colour wheel is called an <b>Analogous Color Scheme</b>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptFrojoKdDJHBnzQoYE8II55rDhDuOVUcX4_4BS59j9Mxv74yxMfu-tPIV2DVHeCAdqm6D7ZyBFkP4nRZhiTryYbALS42nL8vwVVnnvqzw7vgd5qsAXyGrWz3gJkFnAAwCJPPuIUYxjGV/s1600/Analogous+schemes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="1500" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptFrojoKdDJHBnzQoYE8II55rDhDuOVUcX4_4BS59j9Mxv74yxMfu-tPIV2DVHeCAdqm6D7ZyBFkP4nRZhiTryYbALS42nL8vwVVnnvqzw7vgd5qsAXyGrWz3gJkFnAAwCJPPuIUYxjGV/s400/Analogous+schemes.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Technically speaking analogous hues are three hues next to one another on the colour wheel. But for my own purposes I consider any adjacent group of between two and five hues to be analogous. <br /><br />However, as hues get further apart from one another on the wheel they become less harmonious and more contrasting. Hues that are directly opposite each another are considered to possess maximum contrast and impact. A colour scheme using hues that sit opposite each another on the colour wheel is called a <b>Complementary Color Scheme</b>.<br />
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL14Sl30krb_xqk8Hmb0zKQoZM_IbShkR3WJdNdF7cj739r-AUSiihNNGGiTvQTZfA5y-28tFpGUwCqomYbYBSD1NAd9i9oh3Wqsfld7Q988gVZq-lD6NxnWM0Uo9oVTFIwT2Xfv7q_JE/s1600/Complementary+schemes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="1500" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL14Sl30krb_xqk8Hmb0zKQoZM_IbShkR3WJdNdF7cj739r-AUSiihNNGGiTvQTZfA5y-28tFpGUwCqomYbYBSD1NAd9i9oh3Wqsfld7Q988gVZq-lD6NxnWM0Uo9oVTFIwT2Xfv7q_JE/s400/Complementary+schemes.jpg" width="400" /></a></b></div>
<br />While it’s possible to use a solely analogous or complimentary colour scheme it’s also possible to include a combination of hues that features both types of contrast within the same colour scheme. <br /><br />Analogous and complementary schemes are both built around a contrast between hues. However you will also need to consider the saturation, tone and temperature of those hues. This can greatly alter the nature of the colour contrast. <br /><br />For example a green and red directly opposite one another on the colour wheel, and of roughly the same saturation and tone, will have an extreme contrast. This may be too strong and visually confusing. That is what’s meant when colours are said to clash!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI6IK1d5-HWHewaxKwO5h8Cc-I8B2O3BFWM-p_qYJMFf_TIvLfI6s1-9UkLhQ5xW5W33-mfdT_BVnZeLlgbwI7gNjc_nPMvSHrI_lbglqCgpWJjQ6RGogX6BHxs5Axk-y28snat2SnQyQQ/s1600/Red-Green1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="487" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI6IK1d5-HWHewaxKwO5h8Cc-I8B2O3BFWM-p_qYJMFf_TIvLfI6s1-9UkLhQ5xW5W33-mfdT_BVnZeLlgbwI7gNjc_nPMvSHrI_lbglqCgpWJjQ6RGogX6BHxs5Axk-y28snat2SnQyQQ/s320/Red-Green1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />In the next example I’ve lightened and desaturated the green while the red has been darkened. This has altered the contrast so that, although still very bold, it clashes less.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTcPsX_Q1Hisg_yw6TROv-X0W6uzkVZ72IC569qzeAme8G6NYJNv4puKapT8Pq8ehrllF2wgUs6qYd6cW7Sqj94PxRwhVf3cZmM5k-BvbluUi3M9Q_GxmiLQqVvqXZ1iuRfE5FTEPeKqjJ/s1600/Red-Green2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="487" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTcPsX_Q1Hisg_yw6TROv-X0W6uzkVZ72IC569qzeAme8G6NYJNv4puKapT8Pq8ehrllF2wgUs6qYd6cW7Sqj94PxRwhVf3cZmM5k-BvbluUi3M9Q_GxmiLQqVvqXZ1iuRfE5FTEPeKqjJ/s320/Red-Green2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />In the final example I’ve further adjusted the contrast by making both colours slightly cooler. Both the red and green now have a bluer hue making them slightly closer on the colour wheel. They are still complimentary but are now also more harmonious then the previous two examples.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6pezAEUNTVL-qkYzq6WOBlaIHHG8Sg6-GDDfBI19QynouxczaQuXbC9ZciIZqnS3jePQC6_K0ufllVOkjym8Ek9-zAm6jtpFgeHYZkkT5qeZUIn5sFwisXnV2n7kW8ZJuaOuHnp8JLDIV/s1600/Red-Green3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="487" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6pezAEUNTVL-qkYzq6WOBlaIHHG8Sg6-GDDfBI19QynouxczaQuXbC9ZciIZqnS3jePQC6_K0ufllVOkjym8Ek9-zAm6jtpFgeHYZkkT5qeZUIn5sFwisXnV2n7kW8ZJuaOuHnp8JLDIV/s320/Red-Green3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />If you are familiar with my work you may recognize that final example was the basis for my Gutrot Spume colour scheme. <br /><br />The strongest and most obvious colour contrast on Gutrot is that between the complimentary hues of red and green. As shown above I’ve chosen to use relatively cool versions of both colours; but there is more going on with my colour choices than a simple complementary scheme.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ47Wu6xIbe_mZZX-yngXITPTeYBefkQsWh12ZWYrCXsvJY8owly953PuXbjQ39roYkdQsfWM_R3mbKHELROWPMrNMzLQ4foO9gabVpa9u9Jz8fOVBU6IaZs7vp3ICq8gcL4QDmVPssQRw/s1600/HUES-Gutrot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="1212" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ47Wu6xIbe_mZZX-yngXITPTeYBefkQsWh12ZWYrCXsvJY8owly953PuXbjQ39roYkdQsfWM_R3mbKHELROWPMrNMzLQ4foO9gabVpa9u9Jz8fOVBU6IaZs7vp3ICq8gcL4QDmVPssQRw/s400/HUES-Gutrot.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />In addition to the turquoise blue/green I have used other warmer yellow/green hues and together they make up an analogous grouping of colours within the overall palette. There is a strong temperature contrasts between the warm and cool colours. But a more subtle temperature contrast also occurs between the warm & cool greens. Most of the colours on Gutrot are saturated but they are in contrast to the desaturated brown & greys on his base and equipment. The tonal contrasts between the colours are relatively understated. <br /><br />By understanding the characteristics of the colours in my palette I’ve been able to balance what might otherwise be an overcomplicated and visually unclear colour scheme. <br /><br />There are no rules about what type of colour contrast you should or shouldn’t use when painting your models. The important thing is that you understand the characteristics of the colours you are using. You are in control and everything that happens in a colour scheme should be there because you have chosen to feature it.<br />
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<h3>
Coming next... </h3>
<br />I'll take a look at colour palettes and how (from my point of view) they differ from colour schemes. Then I will describe how I go about building a colour palette for my projects. <br />
<br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-75916147337239781232020-04-03T11:40:00.001+01:002020-04-03T11:40:31.027+01:00Weathering a Kastelan Robot – Part 1.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8kW54gNadLHpWNaTkT-qQj8yGSiiGcozFFsFMuMenPHwaX9WelTB67Cv8jvA5RcNO_PmuEPxWnBztFHTwj266axaS0nVSdPN5OcwhYw9MxzmVwn-atxHWkQQ7JHvOMhG-BUHxsboQizb/s1600/kastelan5c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8kW54gNadLHpWNaTkT-qQj8yGSiiGcozFFsFMuMenPHwaX9WelTB67Cv8jvA5RcNO_PmuEPxWnBztFHTwj266axaS0nVSdPN5OcwhYw9MxzmVwn-atxHWkQQ7JHvOMhG-BUHxsboQizb/s400/kastelan5c.jpg" width="368" /></a></div>
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I’d planned to keep the details of this project fairly close to my chest because I’m painting it for my next workshop ‘Dirt, damage and decay - weathering a Kastelan Robot‘. However, as the workshop has been postponed (for obvious reasons), I’ve decided to share my progress in more detail. I’ll also be posting a series of tutorials, focused on different aspects of the weathering, over the coming weeks. <br /><br />
<h3>
Why a Kastelan Robot? </h3>
<br />My choice of model for this project has been a long process. The weathering workshop grew out of my previous Abyssal Warlord workshop. That was focused on painting the amour and especially on texture and damage. I’ve been on the lookout for a model that: <br /><ul>
<li> had lots of armour/hard surfaces;</li>
<li> was lighter and easier to handle than the warlord (he’s very heavy!); and</li>
<li> was more economical to use as a workshop model. </li>
</ul>
<br />I very nearly settled on the Easy To Build Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought. But then I took a closer look at the Kastelan Robots and they fit the pill perfectly! In addition to meeting my criteria they had the benefit of being particularly appropriate for a weathering workshop. The model represents a ‘huge ancient robot built ten thousand years ago’ so it’s more than likely to have picked up a scratch or two. On a more personal note, with it’s rounded form and curved surfaces, the aesthetics of the Kastelan appealed to me more than the boxy Dreadnought.<br />
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<br />With the model selected it was time to think about how I was going to approach painting it for the workshop. Broadly speaking this meant how much and what type of weathering was I going to demonstrate. Over the years I’ve expanded my repertoire of weathering effects and I wanted to go well beyond what I’d demonstrated in the Abyssal Warlord workshop. Off the top of my head, the Kastelan afforded me the opportunity to explore corrosion in the form of rust and verdigris, dirt, staining, battle damage and general wear and tear. I decided to go all out and maybe even over-the-top with the weathering. This would enable workshop participants to thoroughly explore the subject, it would also be fun! <br /><br />The very first thing I did was to sit down and make some notes. These are simply a series of random jottings on my thoughts for things like techniques, materials, colours and the workshop’s structure. As and when I have a relevant idea it will get added to my notebook so that it’s not forgotten. And then it was time for my least favorite part of any project, preparing the model for painting.<br />
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<h3>
Preparing the model. </h3>
<br />If there’s one drawback with my choice of model it’s that there are a lot of parts to prepare and assemble! However, I think the model is worth the effort required. The process was a straightforward enough matter of following the instructions. But first I removed the mould lines by using a scalpel to scrape them away and then lightly sanding them with fine grit sandpaper. I like to wet sand a plastic model because I think it gives a smoother finish; it also stops dust getting into the air.<br />
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<br />It’s well worth taking some time to study the instructions before you start, because later parts often cover up the mould lines on earlier parts as you assemble the model. This can save a lot of time and it’s most frustrating to carefully clean a part only to discover that it gets covered up! The same principal applies to gap filling. A little bit of planning and test fitting can go a long way towards making the job easier! <br /><br />It’s also a good idea to think about the model’s pose early in the process. The Kastelan allows some degree of choice in the final pose so you need to consider the situation and setting the model will be in as well as the overall composition. You want to create something interesting and dynamic but you also need to be mindful of how easy (or not) the pose will be to paint. It was at this stage that I decided to leave the arms off and paint them as sub-assemblies. This would enable me to access the side areas of the model. I also considered keeping the legs separate for painting but decided against this. I wanted to establish the pose before I had committed to painting, and the relationship between the legs, hips and torso was crucial. It was more straightforward to assemble these parts unpainted. All in all I found the model quicker and easier to assemble than I’d expected and I’m very pleased with the pose I’ve created.<br />
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<h3>
To prime or not to prime! </h3>
<br />It was time to start painting and that meant I had to consider primer and basecoat. I know it still shocks some people that I don’t always prime my models before painting. This is very much my own personal preference not some rampant crusade against priming! I want as few layers of paint between myself and the detail as posible! I make my decisions on a model-by-model basis. <br /><br />My models will not be handled once finished so I don’t need a primer to help protect them from wear and tear. For me primer is most useful in helping the paint adhere to the surface of a model. This is only really an issue on large surface areas which can be more difficult to cover with a basecoat alone, and may be prone to rubbing during the painting process. <br /><br />In the case of the Kastelan I decided to go without primer. Although it’s quite a large model (for me) it’s made up of a lot of smaller surfaces and I didn’t anticipate any problems with paint coverage. When I paint a basecoat onto a model I prefer to use Citadel base paints, slightly diluted and applied in three to four thin coats. The first coat will look like a patchy mess but, as long as each coat is thoroughly dry, the coverage gets better with each successive coat.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfQiYoEGXvRx-By77OZyf_OrIK2yIOnufrogcRhEVdFX5Ins3LJjdszCZApqTa8TO_QIyksA-GbLWPyF6eXHNhYKNFLlx9M2PJ3v15QIsozEt3Lg1hTD42_VnN7Lx3BZzm6R0VEe92qrK3/s1600/01brushes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfQiYoEGXvRx-By77OZyf_OrIK2yIOnufrogcRhEVdFX5Ins3LJjdszCZApqTa8TO_QIyksA-GbLWPyF6eXHNhYKNFLlx9M2PJ3v15QIsozEt3Lg1hTD42_VnN7Lx3BZzm6R0VEe92qrK3/s400/01brushes.jpg" width="368" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ugly truth! These are my basecoating brushes. <br />I've used them on all my slayer sword winning models!</td></tr>
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<br />I apply the paint with a dabbing (dare I say stippling) action. Spreading the paint as far as it will go before I reload my brush. A little dilute paint can go a very long way and this will help to ensure the finished result is smooth and even. The Kastelan posed a particular challenge to this process because the model has a lot of nooks and crannies. Getting paint into all these tricky areas took a lot of concentration and was a little frustrating. Repeatedly checking the model under different lighting and studying it from every angle are the best ways to deal with the issue. It’s very important to spend time and effort getting a good basecoat down. You do not want to be finding any spots of unpainted plastic halfway through a project! <br /><br />In my next posting I’ll be looking at my choice of a colour palette and how I use that to create an overall color scheme for my Kastelan Robot. <br /><br /> <br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-9036336929275435792020-03-21T12:24:00.000+00:002020-03-21T12:53:44.010+00:00Rockgut Troggoth Part 10. Making a scenic base for my models.Like everyone else I’ve been dealing with the changes to daily life made necessary by our efforts to stop the spread of coronavirus. As I have asthma and my partner has a heart condition we’ve been busy getting everything in place to be able to isolate ourselves. That’s been complicated by having to help and support my recently widowed Mum. But we are all in the same boat (even if we are keeping at least two metres apart) so I guess we’ll settle into our new way of life in time. <br />
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<h4>
Life goes on! So it’s time to catch up with my blog posting again! </h4>
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<h4>
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The week running up to the Iron Skull Painting competition saw a frenzy of basing activity, partly due to the impending deadline; but mostly due to a burst of energy and enthusiasm. It felt very good to lose myself in my hobby for a few days and even better to see that result is substantial progress.<br />
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I usually find painting a base to be a quicker, less intense, sort of painting but the base for this project was not insubstantial and it incorporated a face, albeit a stone face. To get things started I decided to use Zenithal priming. That’s not something I’m overly fond of as I think it’s a rather imprecise way of representing the fall of light on a subject. But in this case it was a great way of quickly establishing the initial placement of highlight and shade areas. Before I did that, however, I took reference photos for the intended lighting and these were enormously helpful in achieving the subtlety and nuance that the priming lacked. <br />
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I often use photos for lighting reference and it’s something I recommend in my workshops. I think reference photos should always be used for guidance rather than something you must slavishly copy. The big difference they have made to my painting is that the placement of highlights and shadows on my models is now a matter of informed choice.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQWAzqDaImuU1Yv3PZjBe4nLZZlM3N95ox-1mXLHNfR680tQrBGRQ6dlBmAsusRz0AuFOEdN8biGEsFCoNisIocjqloi3rZPzGrS_6LdZOMN5NU96eKEr_OG0QqgVQkWTaYmqdaeERFbO/s1600/base.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQWAzqDaImuU1Yv3PZjBe4nLZZlM3N95ox-1mXLHNfR680tQrBGRQ6dlBmAsusRz0AuFOEdN8biGEsFCoNisIocjqloi3rZPzGrS_6LdZOMN5NU96eKEr_OG0QqgVQkWTaYmqdaeERFbO/s400/base.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I said ‘frenzy’ earlier and so it was because I completed <br />
all the
painting for the stone in a single day <br />
after nine hours of solid
painting! </td></tr>
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I often heavily dry brush my bases but in this case I painted all the stone using a combination of layering, glazes and stippling. This gave me a lot of control over my textures and in a few places the Zenithal priming still shows through, creating a soft speckled texture that works nicely for the stone. My colour palette is the same as I used on the Troggoth’s rocks. This was always a part of my plan and it helps to tie the models in to their environment. <br />
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It’s important to remember that all the colours on a base should be considered as a part of an overall colour scheme. My Troggoth and the Goblin both feature a dominant warm red/brown with cooler green/grey shades to contrast and complement. Those same green/grey shades are the dominant colour on my base. However I have still used the same dark brown as a global shade colour on the base as I used on the Troggoth.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMNdioj2c0lBmNcAK381-ThcbzX4WD_LOonnhG9gAdK_JJEMSMBA7-pkaPJBZW2wMNRC8LRQEvtmyswCisllhZ63OczIjJ3ESQvBPOPb1iacXGETNrQaB7dKNs6qzH9_qhyphenhyphen55pg3SttA3k/s1600/base1d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMNdioj2c0lBmNcAK381-ThcbzX4WD_LOonnhG9gAdK_JJEMSMBA7-pkaPJBZW2wMNRC8LRQEvtmyswCisllhZ63OczIjJ3ESQvBPOPb1iacXGETNrQaB7dKNs6qzH9_qhyphenhyphen55pg3SttA3k/s400/base1d.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are the colours I used to create the green/grey tone for my rocks.</td></tr>
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I’m not going into much detail about how I added the plants to my base because most of it was covered in my earlier post: ‘<a href="https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2019/11/adding-plant-effects-to-model-or-grass.html" target="_blank">Adding plant effects to a model. Or, the grass is always greener on the other side of the Troggoth!’ </a> <br />
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However I will stress that the plants should work within the overall colour palette and contribute to texture contrast, so be mindful when you pick which grass tufts to use! Something I tried out for the first time was clump foliage. It’s a mixture of ground up foam particles and fine fibers and it worked wonders for the overall look of my plants. I found mine in a model railway shop where there was a wide range of colours and sizes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhflpY8H1JyOxbrQYKwZornQeXI8zvnMPvi1dgXJdXeTX-4sXAvPWfP0jAe5SLdV4z4lA6j4n4WpPLh02b22F7a0J4dW5nn5MCuIoPjhzBFwAfJnvZaOdpjiQ6sFKSvIVeP9yB9T5_PCE/s1600/base1b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhflpY8H1JyOxbrQYKwZornQeXI8zvnMPvi1dgXJdXeTX-4sXAvPWfP0jAe5SLdV4z4lA6j4n4WpPLh02b22F7a0J4dW5nn5MCuIoPjhzBFwAfJnvZaOdpjiQ6sFKSvIVeP9yB9T5_PCE/s400/base1b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few examples of the clump foliage on my base.</td></tr>
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The final step was to fix the models to the base and this is where special care should be taken. I’d planned well ahead for this so I was ready when the time came. It’s vital that your models look like they are properly situated in the environment you are creating. They should make proper and appropriate contact with the surface they are standing on. They should also affect and be affected by their immediate environment, for example putting dirt on a model’s feet and footprints on the ground. <br />
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The big challenge for this project was to make sure that both models were in full contact with the base. Both the Troggoth and the Goblin have perfectly flat surfaces underneath where they contact their bases. Because I’d decided not to have any plants on the upper surface of the rock base there would be no way of hiding any gaps. This is the reason I mounted the models onto a flat slab of stone. But the surface texture of that stone created a few gaps between the models and the ground surface!<br />
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My solution was to fill these gaps with dilute PVA woodworking glue. Surface tension drew this mix into the gaps. Over the course of several applications the gaps were filled and camouflaged. Dilute PVA is great for filling fine gaps on painted models but it’s very important to allow each application to dry thoroughly before applying the next due to shrinkage.<br />
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Basing models is something I really enjoy. It can be tricky and has the potential to go wrong. But if you plan ahead and take a little care it can be the finishing touch that brings that something extra to a model.<br />
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<br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-45409762390405184832020-03-01T15:21:00.002+00:002020-03-01T15:21:25.445+00:00Rockgut Troggoth Part 9. “Lob it, don’t drop it!” Rather than writing a great long post I’m going to keep things fairly brief and make this a photo-focused piece. <br /><br />It’s been a whole year since I actually finished a project! Not that I haven’t been busy since but a combination of workshops, long term projects and life in general has kept me on the go without actually getting to the end of a project. Until now that is because my Troggoth/Goblin project, now titled “Lob it, don’t drop it!” is finished!<br />
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<span id="goog_306449584"></span><span id="goog_306449585"></span><br />If your not already sick to death of seeing my Troggoth here are a few close-up pics showing the detais (and brush marks).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhClqmAHcIjwn4sbzntANt4t3xz1qdHNKdd4g3aVOfHFG6ZTZKDBq2RKFihM8XDtblzGu6mvnYCFEZMMxnZDINWXyl7nqYxkPDISYyBfolIaQ0dWzocHOGQW_kXlRc5sYSEaIJycPDq5Vz/s1600/CloseupTroggoth1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="657" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhClqmAHcIjwn4sbzntANt4t3xz1qdHNKdd4g3aVOfHFG6ZTZKDBq2RKFihM8XDtblzGu6mvnYCFEZMMxnZDINWXyl7nqYxkPDISYyBfolIaQ0dWzocHOGQW_kXlRc5sYSEaIJycPDq5Vz/s320/CloseupTroggoth1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_z8Md7npOBIwaKImRvLxfNfzjAp6L04yqxREBJ9RHaJRejGv0N42noN6XhdRqQkT2Z299cmnLlqNwoiVWmJ0tEjGcVVq_x5zUrKlpYgO7wzXNZg061mmxw1vbKIKXZ4bxfn-vKySCXc7/s1600/CloseupTroggoth7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="657" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_z8Md7npOBIwaKImRvLxfNfzjAp6L04yqxREBJ9RHaJRejGv0N42noN6XhdRqQkT2Z299cmnLlqNwoiVWmJ0tEjGcVVq_x5zUrKlpYgO7wzXNZg061mmxw1vbKIKXZ4bxfn-vKySCXc7/s320/CloseupTroggoth7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I’m going to talk about how I brought the all elements together and finished the project in my next posting. <br /><br /> But in the mean time I have cause for celebration. I’d been looking forward to the Iron Skull painting competition for some time but, until the end of last week, it was looking like I wouldn’t have anything to bring along. With everything that happened at the start of the year my thoughts were not on painting or competitions. <br /><br />Then when my Troggoth project came together, in what I can only describe as a super productive painting frenzy (again more on that next time), I suddenly found myself with an entry. Not that that prevented my usual pre-show nerves and jitters but they were rewarded with a major success!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuY5d9GCTeNlp6Ikm837E8xwvJk0wt3ScyTjQAunQqB-VUeVeQeoAMegWR_rYRGVjmHYJ2HLjF_SzEhDuD6DQgXmEcnPcEuT5bV3tU0FdMGytqpvjjnoUsUhVQVFGfBJCMK9XkNoDancul/s1600/IMG_4031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="528" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuY5d9GCTeNlp6Ikm837E8xwvJk0wt3ScyTjQAunQqB-VUeVeQeoAMegWR_rYRGVjmHYJ2HLjF_SzEhDuD6DQgXmEcnPcEuT5bV3tU0FdMGytqpvjjnoUsUhVQVFGfBJCMK9XkNoDancul/s320/IMG_4031.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUn06yA2QafMmhhd6Y_pVuYZvpwhJ8BSTh7m-p2wtHcgZJCyYu9T7KKDdOV54lArqF6-mUkFhajaffEsbsb5sJL5SRMzhqFfAMEnSbloVpeLM6HiwwURjV40Tpb5K3Fv69rCEB60-lKEVk/s1600/ISbest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUn06yA2QafMmhhd6Y_pVuYZvpwhJ8BSTh7m-p2wtHcgZJCyYu9T7KKDdOV54lArqF6-mUkFhajaffEsbsb5sJL5SRMzhqFfAMEnSbloVpeLM6HiwwURjV40Tpb5K3Fv69rCEB60-lKEVk/s320/ISbest.jpg" width="168" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Iron Skull Trophy for 'Best in Show'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vRFUcRZk03Q9F1PvsD6ZbL6EClnDRaa5TzEvxPWhzeGH__BWAfu8DE-wpNNby5NAhd7ANzf4eS2OVwrEAm699sWsUdalKr0EUINTu0d3qD_dUmvQ5OM9oRGU175pz5CtzZG04tdu7XA_/s1600/ISgold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vRFUcRZk03Q9F1PvsD6ZbL6EClnDRaa5TzEvxPWhzeGH__BWAfu8DE-wpNNby5NAhd7ANzf4eS2OVwrEAm699sWsUdalKr0EUINTu0d3qD_dUmvQ5OM9oRGU175pz5CtzZG04tdu7XA_/s320/ISgold.jpg" width="168" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gold Trophy for Scene/Duel/Diorama</td></tr>
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<br />I’m so very pleased and proud that my Troggoth won gold in it’s category Scene/Duel/Diorama. Then, to make an already great day even better, it went on to win Best in Show!<br />
David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-66797762358518850272020-02-22T11:52:00.000+00:002020-02-22T11:55:26.641+00:00Rockgut Troggoth (and Zarbag the Goblin) – Part 8.It feels very good to get back to some painting after the upheaval of Dad’s death and funeral. I’d like to say that everything is back to normal but of course nothing will be quite the same again and it will take time to figure out what the new normal is.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-zRXIli0kOJkWvwemp1htAPNp22PjrOuhboDdpKhWXa9XtVJ8lZtG1Z90r_DsSLyLO8tzmO-DH_C_IKlfItvkeIkWaLAwtkqj0CDKvGSnDZxqc3Kq6nXgCmtuZvfm74-jTcjo8TX7CVY/s1600/trolltest2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="614" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-zRXIli0kOJkWvwemp1htAPNp22PjrOuhboDdpKhWXa9XtVJ8lZtG1Z90r_DsSLyLO8tzmO-DH_C_IKlfItvkeIkWaLAwtkqj0CDKvGSnDZxqc3Kq6nXgCmtuZvfm74-jTcjo8TX7CVY/s640/trolltest2.jpg" width="435" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Together at last! Testing the composition <br />
for the Troggoth & Zarbag.</td></tr>
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I left Zarbag just as his paint job began to come together but also as I came across my first problem: my palette of colours for Zarbag was the same as for my Troggoth. This made good sense as they are going on the same base and exist in the same environment. The difference is in the proportions of those colours. On my Troggoth the reds, greens and grey/blacks are secondary colours to the flesh tones but on Zarbag they are dominant. The highlight and shade colours are common to both minis. <br />
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The problem occurred with the red. On the Troggoth I used P3 Skorne Red in the flesh tones and it brings a lot of warmth and life to an otherwise cool and desaturated palette. Skorne Red is a great shade but the formulation has a soft shine when dry. This was fine on my Troggoth but on Zarbag’s robes it looked horrible! First of all it was too shiny for fabric but even worse the shine meant that it was difficult to see the blending while I was painting. This resulted in a slightly patchy and uneven finish. <br />
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The solution came in the form of AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish. So far this stuff has worked like magic for me! One thinly applied coat and the surface takes on a beautifully even ultra matt finish. I was then able to retouch my painting on the hood using Scale Colour paints to refine the highlights and shading to my satisfaction.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zmfGthGE3B0czXWDjmaUl29FuAGSCcioXJqIc_675KY17ZKXRBK7QNQotd98tZryohzG5YmH1fNd0weB0hZc5-M8NO5NGflQTwLzJxRsMVj3fU-q1dWbcztMMw-d7yyIt1C-Cn3iD42X/s1600/Goblinvarnish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="341" data-original-width="674" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zmfGthGE3B0czXWDjmaUl29FuAGSCcioXJqIc_675KY17ZKXRBK7QNQotd98tZryohzG5YmH1fNd0weB0hZc5-M8NO5NGflQTwLzJxRsMVj3fU-q1dWbcztMMw-d7yyIt1C-Cn3iD42X/s400/Goblinvarnish.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The red hood before and after the matte varnish.</td></tr>
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The hands and feet were fiddly but otherwise straightforward as I was working with the same flesh tones that I’d used on the face. Although Zarbag’s flesh looks, naturally enough, predominantly green, the shadows are a warm red/brown. This gives added depth and nuance to his flesh but it also helps to tie him together with the Troggoth. In addition I’ve glazed some subtle blue tones onto the yellow/green flesh. This helps to create a range of warm and cool greens.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhM7JyzWdmeX7CBWw2W9W5I5m3I837XvIVNY1zHOsrblg5fFuajX4o1wJfn5LywsNk_1L42toQOzO8HJa2crniWkQVZEByzSzdAXPhZ3ElyYImYPDjdbCEKjS3d1lDjla2A49p2WYstcbH/s1600/goblinflesh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="432" data-original-width="900" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhM7JyzWdmeX7CBWw2W9W5I5m3I837XvIVNY1zHOsrblg5fFuajX4o1wJfn5LywsNk_1L42toQOzO8HJa2crniWkQVZEByzSzdAXPhZ3ElyYImYPDjdbCEKjS3d1lDjla2A49p2WYstcbH/s400/goblinflesh.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The colours used for Zarbag's flesh tones.</td></tr>
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The other main area of note is Zarbag’s sickle, which deserved special attention. I decided to use true metallics for the blade, as the shine of the metal would create an interesting material contrast with the other surfaces. In addition, the verdigris effects I planned to use look especially good against true metallics. I painted the blade with a warm coppery gold and then worked up to a yellow gold mid-tone and then to a cooler silvery gold highlight. I then used some Citadel Colour Contrast Paints to glaze over the blade. The Contrast Paints tied everything together and softened the shine.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The metallics used on Zarbag's sickle.</td></tr>
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The verdigris is the fun bit! Using a very dilute blue/green, I applied blobs and spots of colour to the blade. Before that was fully dry I removed the paint with a clean wet brush. This will leave stains and tide marks where the edges of the paint started to dry. I repeated this process several times with varying blue/green shades. I then glazed over the verdigris with a dark green to soften the effect.<br />
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I repeated a similar process with dark brown on Zarbag’s red robes to create some unpleasant looking stains which were further enhanced with the addition of some brown texture paint. This was created with a mix of paint, chinchilla sand and matt varnish. <br />
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Zarbag is such a small mini that I’ve been able to finish him with in a few days. All together I painted him in about a week although that’s been split up and spread out over time.<br />
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With Zarbag done I could then turn my attention to the base but, before I started painting, I had to get the back and side surfaces flush and seamless. Although not complicated it was a frustrating task. I’d used a mixture of materials to build the base including plaster, plastic, MDF and Milliput. The varying degrees of hardness meant that even when sanded flush the boundaries between the different materials could be seen and felt. The solution was to prime the base and then gently wet sand the seams - multiple times! A seamless surface can be created this way but it’s frustrating because I had to keep checking my work in different lighting to be sure I was successful.<br />
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With the base as well finished as I am ever going to get it (there is no such thing as perfection) it was time to test fit my models onto it. This would be the first time I’d been able to put the two models together in the context they are intended for. With a little fiddling the composition came together exactly as I wanted. This is a great relief as it means I can move on to painting the base with a degree of confidence that the overall project will come together well!<br />
<br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-34578063976452367522020-02-08T09:25:00.001+00:002020-02-08T09:25:13.321+00:00Remembering Dad<h3>
Robert George Soper “Bob” <i><b> </b></i></h3>
<i><b>9th September 1938 – 10th January 2020 </b></i><br />
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Family and friends came together yesterday at Test Valley Crematorium to remember Dad. He was taken from us by circumstances that were tragic and sudden. It was my honour to be able to pay tribute to Dad as a part of the service held in his memory. I would like to share my words and a few pictures of Dad on this blog.<br />
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Dad’s death was an overwhelming shock and, for a time, it drove out all other thoughts and feelings. But as I’ve prepared for today I’ve been able to reflect on my memories of Dad and that’s helped me to put his death in its proper place in relation to his life. <br />
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Some of my memories of Dad may seem a little random, and maybe even inconsequential but they’re all precious; and anyway that’s how memories work. I’d like to share a just a handful of them with you.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was Dad who gave me my nickname of Sproket.</td></tr>
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I remember Dad’s penknife. Always in his pocket and ready when needed. I remembered the snap as it cut through the twine on a hay bale. But it was much more than a work tool used on the farm. On Sunday mornings dad would take my brother Richard and I up the lane to visit Nan Soper. As we walked he would fill his pockets with Hazelnuts picked fresh from the hedgerows. With a twist of his knife the shells were opened and the nuts shared as we walked along. <br />
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On those same walks he’d casually chop the tops off the giant hogweed as we went along. Penknife held at arms length, never missing and (almost) always managing the feat with a single practiced stroke. <br />
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That penknife would help build our incredible dens, slice an apple or carve and shape a walking stick. In memory it seemes like an inseparable part of Dad. <br />
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Dad had a soft spot for chimpanzees. Not so much the real animals as presented by the likes of Sir David Attenborough but rather the comedy kind and most especially Cheeta. The real star of the Tarzan movies from the 1930s and 40s. <br />
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I have vague memories of a rubber chimp mask that Dad put to good use when playing pranks. But I most clearly remember watching ‘Tarzan's New York Adventure’ with dad when I was small, and our shared delight in Cheetas antics. Dad was a connoisseur of mischief and Cheeta was at the top of his list! <br />
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In more recent years when ever looking for a birthday or Father’s day card I always knew I couldn’t go wrong with a comedy chimp. <br />
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Time passed and as I reached my teens my relationship with dad became more complicated. I was moving towards a very different world and life than the one Dad knew and we sometimes clashed. <br />
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Most of my style choices caused him no little concern but it was the pink mohawk in 1983 that finally pushed him over the edge. I will just say that, for all the embarrassment I undoubtedly caused him, he was more than able to even the score. That sense of mischief meant that, one way or another, he could always get the better of me! <br />
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College followed school and the time eventually came for me to leave home and make my own way in the world. That was a tricky transition and it was certainly an emotional one. But I’ll never forget that it was Dad who calmed the stormy waters and helped me take my first steps into the adult world. <br />
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I already had much to be grateful for but life was to blessed me with so much more. It gave me the opportunity to know Dad as one adult to another. I got to see him grow happier and more contented as he moved through his life. I’ve been given the time to understand his views and values and to realize that, naturally enough, we have much in common. <br />
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I learned (eventually)to take delight in his humour, to admire his once embarrassing sense of mischief and his strength of character! He showed me how being comfortable enough with yourself to sometimes act foolishly does not make you a fool – quite the opposite!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad and Mum on the day of their engagement.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Together for 58 years</td></tr>
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We never said ‘I love you’ to one another! Do I regret that – not in the least! Because the years we had gave us the opportunity to know and understand each other Father and Son. I was able to say ‘thank you’ and to show my love for him. And to recognize the love in all his actions. From the least little hazelnut to the long hours of hard work that supported me through my education. <br />
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Dad was taken away too suddenly and too soon but I am forever grateful for the man who was my farther and for all the years I had with him. David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-8332471626976673202020-01-09T21:08:00.000+00:002020-01-09T21:08:34.415+00:00Rockgut Troggoth – Part 7. The Troggoth is done so it's time to start my Goblin.This is the time of the year when I often think about endings and beginnings which, as it happens, is not an inappropriate attitude for my Troggoth project. I’d wanted to finish the Troggoth before Christmas and, having established a productive painting routine, I was able to achieve my goal! <br /><br />Most of the work was involved in painting the second hand and this went more quickly, if not more easily, than the first. Having established my approach the first time around it was a matter of making the hands match, but with just a little variation so as to look more natural.<br />
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<br />After the hands there were a number of small details to finish. Most these were rocks and leather straps and I had to force myself to slow down and paint them carefully. As a model nears completion I feel a strong urge to hurry up and get the job done. It’s important to resist this urge as it’s all too easy to spoil good work. This is also the time to take a good long look at the model as a whole and decide if any of the earlier work needs to be adjusted in the context of the overall scheme.<br />
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<br />In the case of my Troggoth I decided to change the colour of a couple of the stone amulets he is wearing. I wanted to use just a little more green on the model to contrast with the overall red/brown warm tone. In addition to that the extra green, along with the moss and grass on his back, will tie the model in with the environment I’m setting him in. <br /><br />With the Troggoth done I’ve turned my attention to the Goblin. I’d been unable to find a miniature in the exact pose I wanted! To be honest I hadn’t really expected to so I’d settled on the notion of converting a miniature. This would help me to tell the story I was creating. After searching through the range of Games Workshop’s Goblins I decided upon Zarbag from Zarbag’s Gitz. His pose had the potential to be converted with the minimum of fuss into what I wanted. The crucial change was to swap the hand carrying the lantern for one pointing. <br /><br />I’d decided upon what hand to use as soon as I had the idea to have my Goblin pointing. I was already familiar with the pointing hand on the Poxbringer, Herald of Nurgle and this seemed perfect. Or so I thought until the hand turned out to be much larger than the one it was replacing. There was also the matter of it only having three fingers as opposed to the four on the Goblin’s hand. <br /><br />My solution involved reducing the size of the hand with a lot of cutting and scraping, and swapping the hand holding the weapon for the other hand from the Poxbringer. Fiddly work for sure but it’s always worth the effort.<br />
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<br />I’d also decided to remove the cauldron hanging on Zarbag’s weapon. This was an unnecessary detail for my concept and it’s removal allowed me to have Zarbag raising his weapon off the ground in a more active pose that felt more appropriate for his new context.<br />
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<br />I don’t often base coat all my colours as a first stage but, as the model is so small, I decided to do so this time. This seemed the most straightforward way to go about things and it also helped me to visualize my overall colour composition. With the base colours down I can set about working the separate areas up to a finished state. I don’t anticipate this model taking me all that much time to paint, although experience adds a note of caution to that statement. The Goblin consists of four main colour blocks: the flesh, the hood, the robes and the weapon. I will paint the Goblin using colours from the same palette as the Troggoth to tie the models together! <br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-91304085185795140062019-12-06T21:11:00.000+00:002019-12-06T21:11:28.310+00:00Dirt, damage and decay - weathering a Kastelan Robot.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I am pleased to announce I will be back at <a href="https://elementgames.co.uk/event-tickets/sprokets-painting-master-class-2020" target="_blank">Element Games in Stockport</a> with another masterclass on the 23rd and 24th May 2020!!<br />
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The chosen model for this two-day master class is an Adeptus Mechanicus Kastelan Robot from Games Workshop. There will be an emphasis on the techniques I use to paint textured damage and corrosion over a variety of surfaces and materials.<br />
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<h3>
Topics & techniques to be covered will include: </h3>
<ul>
<li>Assembly and preparation including the addition of real surface textures to a model; </li>
<li>Priming a model and choosing a base colour; </li>
<li>An overview of contrast and colour theory, and their application to creating a successful paint scheme; </li>
<li>Painting volumes and forms; </li>
<li>Painting true metallic metals; </li>
<li>Creating and enhancing painted texture - stippling, dry brushing and freehand textures; </li>
<li>Weathering effects including battle damage, corrosion and staining; </li>
<li>Adding finishing touches and special effects to a painted miniature. </li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>For more information and to book a place please follow the link to <a href="https://elementgames.co.uk/event-tickets/sprokets-painting-master-class-2020" target="_blank">Element Games</a>. </b></span><br />
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David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-88176413048109809452019-12-02T14:05:00.000+00:002019-12-02T14:05:50.250+00:00Rockgut Troggoth – Part 6. Some thoughts about painting hands. For the best part of a year I’ve had difficulty in establishing a regular painting routine. That hasn’t prevented me from making progress but it’s been coming in fits and spurts. Now life is settling into a more regular pattern I’ve been able to focus my energies back onto my hobby and, over the last week, I’ve made a point of painting every day. Taking a ‘little but often’ approach is a very good way of getting back into the swing of things. I think its far better to break out the brushes for an hour or so every day than to attempting some sort of marathon painting binge! <br /><br />It’s a less punishing approach and it works very well for me because, if things don’t go so well, I can simply put my brushes down and try again tomorrow. I usually find that after a couple of days I get into the flow and end up painting for three to four hours a day. Such has been the case and it’s resulted in some satisfying and productive painting.<br />
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<br />Which is just as well because it was time to turn my attention to one of the potentially tricky parts of the model. Hands may not be quite as difficult to paint as faces but I’m undecided about that! A model’s face is usually its focal point and a major element in creating the illusion of a living being, but don’t ever overlook the hands. Hands are used to communicate and they can be just as expressive as a face. They are usually a key element in a model’s pose - be that making a specific gesture, holding a weapon or as part of a greater action. Hands will always be doing something, even if it’s something subtle.<br />
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<br />On top of those considerations hands have a lot going on in terms of their form and structure. Fingers are not simply fleshy sausages (unless you are having a very bad painting day) but contain bones, joints and tendons all of which affect the overall form. It’s important to have an awareness of the structures inside a hand in order to paint the outside surface. <br /><br />In addition to that some of the structures inside a hand, like the veins and joints, may be visible through the skin. As if things aren’t complicated enough you also need to consider how the character’s age, gender, ethnicity and species will affect your painting choices. In short hands can be extremely complex to paint and, like a face, if you get them wrong they will undermine everything else! <br /><br />Which should all go towards explaining why I’ve taken the best part of a week to paint one hand on my Troggoth! It’s particularly important to take the time and effort in this case because the hands are, literally, a huge part of the Troggoth. The hands are at least as big as the model’s head and feature the distinctive stony scales that are a defining element of the Rockgut Troggoth.<br />
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<br />My colour palette for the hands is the same as for the fleshy parts of the Troggoth. I‘d considered painting the hands in the same grey/brown colours as the stony back. But I felt they would not stand out against the boulder they were holding if I did this. I also wanted to create some variation within the stony textures on this model to describe the transition between rock and flesh. To do this I’ve painted the stony parts of the hands and forearms in my flesh colours. So, although painted with the same sharp highlights, the ‘pinker’ stone parts look a little softer than the grey stone parts.<br />
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<br /><br /> David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6374187419315993017.post-65170796709577992692019-11-25T17:29:00.002+00:002019-11-25T17:34:03.039+00:00Sproket's Troggoth Masterclass - January 25th & 26th 2020 <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
The Troggoth Masterclass has proven to be my most popular painting class so I’m delighted to be returning to Lead Belt Studio in Nottingham, to run it once more! <span data-offset-key="egv12-0-0"><span data-text="true">This will be the last opportunity to attend my Troggoth Masterclass before I announce a new workshop in 2020. </span></span> <br />
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For further details and booking info go to the <a href="https://www.leadbeltstudio.com/events/troggothmasterclassjanuary" target="_blank">Lead Belt Studio website</a>.<br />
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<span id="goog_908785601"></span><span id="goog_908785602"></span>
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<br />David Soperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07358848881843128133noreply@blogger.com1