Weathering a Kastelan Robot – Part 1.

I’d planned to keep the details of this project fairly close to my chest because I’m painting it for my next workshop ‘Dirt, damage and decay - weathering a Kastelan Robot‘. However, as the workshop has been postponed (for obvious reasons), I’ve decided to share my progress in more detail. I’ll also be posting a series of tutorials, focused on different aspects of the weathering, over the coming weeks.

Why a Kastelan Robot?

My choice of model for this project has been a long process. The weathering workshop grew out of my previous Abyssal Warlord workshop. That was focused on painting the amour and especially on texture and damage. I’ve been on the lookout for a model that:

• had lots of armour/hard surfaces;
• was lighter and easier to handle than the warlord (he’s very heavy!); and
• was more economical to use as a workshop model.

I very nearly settled on the Easy To Build Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought. But then I took a closer look at the Kastelan Robots and they fit the pill perfectly! In addition to meeting my criteria they had the benefit of being particularly appropriate for a weathering workshop. The model represents a ‘huge ancient robot built ten thousand years ago’ so it’s more than likely to have picked up a scratch or two. On a more personal note, with it’s rounded form and curved surfaces, the aesthetics of the Kastelan appealed to me more than the boxy Dreadnought.

With the model selected it was time to think about how I was going to approach painting it for the workshop. Broadly speaking this meant how much and what type of weathering was I going to demonstrate. Over the years I’ve expanded my repertoire of weathering effects and I wanted to go well beyond what I’d demonstrated in the Abyssal Warlord workshop. Off the top of my head, the Kastelan afforded me the opportunity to explore corrosion in the form of rust and verdigris, dirt, staining, battle damage and general wear and tear. I decided to go all out and maybe even over-the-top with the weathering. This would enable workshop participants to thoroughly explore the subject, it would also be fun!

The very first thing I did was to sit down and make some notes. These are simply a series of random jottings on my thoughts for things like techniques, materials, colours and the workshop’s structure. As and when I have a relevant idea it will get added to my notebook so that it’s not forgotten. And then it was time for my least favorite part of any project, preparing the model for painting.

 

Preparing the model.

If there’s one drawback with my choice of model it’s that there are a lot of parts to prepare and assemble! However, I think the model is worth the effort required. The process was a straightforward enough matter of following the instructions. But first I removed the mould lines by using a scalpel to scrape them away and then lightly sanding them with fine grit sandpaper. I like to wet sand a plastic model because I think it gives a smoother finish; it also stops dust getting into the air.

It’s well worth taking some time to study the instructions before you start, because later parts often cover up the mould lines on earlier parts as you assemble the model. This can save a lot of time and it’s most frustrating to carefully clean a part only to discover that it gets covered up! The same principal applies to gap filling. A little bit of planning and test fitting can go a long way towards making the job easier!

It’s also a good idea to think about the model’s pose early in the process. The Kastelan allows some degree of choice in the final pose so you need to consider the situation and setting the model will be in as well as the overall composition. You want to create something interesting and dynamic but you also need to be mindful of how easy (or not) the pose will be to paint. It was at this stage that I decided to leave the arms off and paint them as sub-assemblies. This would enable me to access the side areas of the model. I also considered keeping the legs separate for painting but decided against this. I wanted to establish the pose before I had committed to painting, and the relationship between the legs, hips and torso was crucial. It was more straightforward to assemble these parts unpainted. All in all I found the model quicker and easier to assemble than I’d expected and I’m very pleased with the pose I’ve created.

To prime or not to prime!

It was time to start painting and that meant I had to consider primer and basecoat. I know it still shocks some people that I don’t always prime my models before painting. This is very much my own personal preference not some rampant crusade against priming! I want as few layers of paint between myself and the detail as posible! I make my decisions on a model-by-model basis.

My models will not be handled once finished so I don’t need a primer to help protect them from wear and tear. For me primer is most useful in helping the paint adhere to the surface of a model. This is only really an issue on large surface areas which can be more difficult to cover with a basecoat alone, and may be prone to rubbing during the painting process.

In the case of the Kastelan I decided to go without primer. Although it’s quite a large model (for me) it’s made up of a lot of smaller surfaces and I didn’t anticipate any problems with paint coverage. When I paint a basecoat onto a model I prefer to use Citadel base paints, slightly diluted and applied in three to four thin coats. The first coat will look like a patchy mess but, as long as each coat is thoroughly dry, the coverage gets better with each successive coat.

The ugly truth! These are my basecoating brushes.
I've used them on all my slayer sword winning models!

I apply the paint with a dabbing (dare I say stippling) action. Spreading the paint as far as it will go before I reload my brush. A little dilute paint can go a very long way and this will help to ensure the finished result is smooth and even. The Kastelan posed a particular challenge to this process because the model has a lot of nooks and crannies. Getting paint into all these tricky areas took a lot of concentration and was a little frustrating. Repeatedly checking the model under different lighting and studying it from every angle are the best ways to deal with the issue. It’s very important to spend time and effort getting a good basecoat down. You do not want to be finding any spots of unpainted plastic halfway through a project!

In my next posting I’ll be looking at my choice of a colour palette and how I use that to create an overall color scheme for my Kastelan Robot.

Dirt, damage and decay - weathering a Kastelan Robot.

I am pleased to announce I will be back at Element Games in Stockport with another masterclass on the 23rd and 24th May 2020!!

The chosen model for this two-day master class is an Adeptus Mechanicus Kastelan Robot from Games Workshop. There will be an emphasis on the techniques I use to paint textured damage and corrosion over a variety of surfaces and materials.

Topics & techniques to be covered will include:

• Assembly and preparation including the addition of real surface textures to a model;
• Priming a model and choosing a base colour;
• An overview of contrast and colour theory, and their application to creating a successful paint scheme;
• Painting volumes and forms;
• Painting true metallic metals;
• Creating and enhancing painted texture - stippling, dry brushing and freehand textures;
• Weathering effects including battle damage, corrosion and staining;
• Adding finishing touches and special effects to a painted miniature.

For more information and to book a place please follow the link to Element Games. 

Sproket's Troggoth Masterclass - January 25th & 26th 2020

The Troggoth Masterclass has proven to be my most popular painting class so I’m delighted to be returning to Lead Belt Studio in Nottingham, to run it once more! This will be the last opportunity to attend my Troggoth Masterclass before I announce a new workshop in 2020.

For further details and booking info go to the Lead Belt Studio website.

Sproket did Troggoths in Nottingham.

I can’t believe it’s been almost a week since my Troggoth workshop in Nottingham, how time flies! The run up to the weekend was busy as I checked through my workshop notes making sure that everything was still up to date and relevant. Even a tried and tested workshop needs to be kept current and this was only the second time I’d done Troggoths. Having said that it’s become my favourite workshop to run because the Troggoth models are perfectly suited to the topics I like to teach.

On the Friday before the workshop I was able to indulge in a long held wish. I finally got to see the Slayer Sword Winners board at Warhammer World with my name immortalised in glorious wood! It was something I’d never got round to seeing for all the years it was on display with my 1990 win fourth on the list. When I won my second Sword in 2013 I thought my chance had come and, even better, I’d have my name at either end of the list. But before I could manage to get to Warhammer World the boards were removed as part of a refurbishment. It’s an unimportant thing really but I felt gutted! So I was delighted to hear that the boards were back and updated so that all five of my Swords were there. I know that gloating is not an admirable quality but I did allow myself a few moments, after all it’s been a long wait.

Saturday and Sunday were the workshop days and I had a full programme of teaching to get through. It was a busy two days for all and the time flew by incredibly quickly. That was helped in no small way by the venue. Lead Belt Studios is a fairly new venture but the venue and set up were ideal and facilitated a friendly and informal atmosphere that added a lot to the experience. On Sunday, in particular, with everyone relaxed and in full swing, there was a lot of (mostly) hobby related chat.
I’m not going to go into great detail about the workshop myself because Ross over at the Fauxhammer.com has written down his own impressions of the weekend. He has said some very nice things about me but my main reason for sharing (honest) is that I think it’s more useful and interesting to get the views of a workshop attendee rather than my own.

Sproket's Troggoth Masterclass in Nottingham

Tickets are now available for my Troggoth Workshop in Nottingham 28 Sep – 29 Sep. You can book then on the Lead Belt Studio website HERE.

Sproket does Troggoths at Element Games.

The last month has seen me the busiest I’ve been in a long time with Golden Demon at Warhammer Fest and my Troggoth workshop in Stockport. Having said that I’ve just had a quiet week to take stock and make some plans for my Nurgle demon tank, which is finally seeing some activity (at long last!). That will be the topic of my next post.

For the moment it’s time to look back at my Troggoth workshop. Rather than rolling out something already prepared like my Plaguebearers ‘contrast’ workshop I’d decided to focus on a newer model. This certainly made for more preparation but I think it’s important to keep things fresh and not fall back on old favourites too easily.

In truth I had a few misgivings about using Troggoths for a workshop! From the painting perspective I was confident that they would be a successful subject, but the new Troggoths require quite a bit of construction before you can get down to the painting. While I hoped that participants would be able to arrive with a Troggoth pre-assembled and ready to paint, I assumed that not everyone would have the time or opportunity to do so.

Such proved to be the case but I’d factored some flexibility into my schedule and by lunchtime on Saturday everyone was painting. By the end of the day all the Troggoths were at roughly the same stage. This is a credit to all the participants who put some serious effort into their painting and kept the pace up over both days!

Painting was at the core of my workshop and the Troggoths proved to be an even better subject than I hoped they would be. With widely differing front and back sides they provide the opportunity to explore a range of forms, volumes and textures. They also pose a challenge with regards to the transitions between these contrasting areas. Best of all the Troggoths are large enough that there is a good amount of surface area for a painter to get to grips with all the challenges posed.

I prefer participants to be comfortable working at their own pace but I think it was a testament to their dedication that, by the end of play on Sunday, we had a remarkably consistent line up of Troggoths. Everyone focused on slightly different aspects of the miniature but I had the pleasure of seeing real progress in all cases. I might have had my doubts beforehand but the Troggoths are a definite winner when it comes to workshop miniatures!

More Troggoths!

I’m very happy to say that my Troggoth Workshop looks likely to be making a swift comeback. Final details are awaiting confirmation but I can give a heads up that, all going well, I will be running the workshop plus an evening presentation ‘Top Ten Tips, Tricks and Techniques’ in Nottingham on the 28 and 29 September. I will be posting more details ASAP!

Comming soon ‘Sproket does Troggoths’ Workshop at Element Games June 1 & 2

Golden Demon may be all done and dusted but there’s no time to ease the pace as I’ve gone straight into workshop preparation mode! My ‘Sproket does Troggoths’ workshop will be running on Saturday 1st and Sunday 2nd June at Element Games in Stockport. There will, of course, be the chance to explore the painting of textures and ‘life-like’ flesh tones but these models also offer the chance to get to grips with painting volumes and forms in a way that many smaller minis don’t.

In addition I’ll be presenting my ‘10 Top Tips Tricks & Techniques’ on the Saturday evening. This is a three hour seminar where I reveal, among other things, the secret of the microbead and the art of making professional looking labels for your display plinths.
Tickets are available on the Element Games website.

https://elementgames.co.uk/ev…/sprokets-painting-masterclass

Rockgut Troggoth – Part 2

Once the filling and sanding side of model preparation was done I decided to give my Troggoth a light coat of primer. I did this not only to provide a key for the paint, but also to show up any flaws in the gap filling. It can be very hard to tell if all the gaps and seams have been dealt with when the model and filler are contrasting colours. Primer evens out the colour difference and makes any surface imperfections easy to see. My primer of choice is Tamiya fine surface primer in light grey.

The filled mini before priming

The mini after priming

My 1987 Troll was painted green and I always considered that the right colour for Trolls but things have moved on over the years. For one thing a green Troll could easily look rather Nurgleish and, although a Nurgle Troggoth could look great, I fancied a change of palette. I’ve painted a lot of Nurgle and its good to do something different every now and again. The new models feature a variety of interesting textures with a strong contrast between their smooth front and their rocky back. An overall paint scheme based in nature seemed to be a good approach for this model. Consequently I felt that a colour scheme using brown and grey earth tones would be interesting and appropriate. So I set about a little research to find some reference.

During my research, and quite unintentionally, I stumbled across some of Paul Bonner’s artwork and something clicked! I wouldn’t normally use the work of an artist as inspiration but I really loved his approach, and the new Rockgut Troggoths already seemed to have a little bit of Paul Bonner’s artwork in their DNA. While I didn’t want to create a straight copy of any particular painting my colour palette, and the overall feel of my paint scheme, are definitely inspired by Paul’s painting.

I decided to use the brown tones globally in my shadows. This unites the contrasting textures and also helps to create a muted and natural feel. This was especially important as I decided to use Bugmans Glow in the flesh tones. Bugmans is a great colour as it brings warmth and a feeling of life to flesh tones, without being too red, but it can, sometimes, look a bit over saturated.

The grey shades would, naturally enough, be used on the rough, rocky parts of the Troggoth. I used a fairly cool grey to contrast with the warm, pinker, flesh. The use of brown in the shadows not only unites all the different textures but give the rocky textures a more organic feel. This seems appropriate because it’s rocky skin rather than just rock.

The colours palette used to create the Troggoth's skin tones

It took me a while to get to grips with my colour palette and develop the balance and atmosphere I was looking for. I wanted to use my colours is such a way as to create some realistic variation in the skin tones. As with my Megaboss I wanted to create some sort of markings or pattern on my Troggoth. I decided the best place for this would be at the boundary between the rocky back and the fleshy front. A band of mottled brown spots now separates these areas and adds a touch of drama to the scheme without overpowering it.

My flesh tones are rounded off with some touches of red and blue carefully glazed and stippled into the shadows. This adds some extra contrast and interest to the palette. In addition these colours help to make the flesh tones look more ‘alive’.

In addition to the stony parts of the Troggoth the miniature features several pieces of actual stone in the form of amulets, armour and, most notably, a stone dwarf head the Troggoth is about to throw. I decided to give this a subtly different tone to the grey stony parts of the Troggoth and opted for a grey/green tone. The colour is subtle but in contrast to the warm flesh tones the green will be more obvious than it might otherwise be.

Drybrushed underpainting

Edge highlights and glazes over drybrushing

All of the stony parts on this mini have benefitted from careful drybrushing. I’ve used this, as I often do, as a sort of underpainting. I drybrushed my greys over a dark brown base and then refined them with some edge highlights and glazes. This has the effect of sharpening the definition on the drybrushing without covering up the texture.

Drybrushed underpainting

Edge highlights and glazes over drybrushing

Hobby Update ... What Sproket did next.

Not so very long ago I’d resigned myself to a quiet low-key sort of year for my hobby. I’d had to cancel a couple of workshops while my partner Mark was recovering from his illness and it didn’t look very likely that I would be making it to any painting competitions either. I was OK with this; after all you need to get your priorities in order. The unanticipated benefit was that I became totally free to paint for the love of painting again and, as I gradually get back up to speed, I’m finding that extremely rewarding.

But now I suddenly find myself with lots to talk about because over the last few weeks the pace of life has really picked up! I’m planning to revisit some of these topics in more detail in subsequent posts. But for the time being this is a round up of sorts, to get this blog up-to-date, before things move on any further.

Artis Opus Series D

I’ve been associated with Artis Opus for about a year now as one of their ‘signature’ artists. This means that I’m among a group of well-known painters who have been using their brushes and have agreed to lend their names and reputation to promoting them. I do that because I really do use Artis Opus brushes and I think they are excellent.

A few weeks ago Byron from Artis Opus contacted me with a very interesting proposition. He’s been working on a new range of brushes (series D) designed specifically for dry brushing. Byron wondered if I’d be willing to try the brushes out ‘on camera’ as part of the promotion for the new kickstarter campaign. Now I’ve always been a ‘fan’ of dry brushing and feel it’s much maligned in some circles. So I agreed to go up to Stockport for a day of filming.

I had a bit of an ulterior motive, as this would give Mark and myself the opportunity to have a little break. Since Mark left hospital we’ve been restricted in how far we could travel or how long we could stay out. But we felt the time was now right to be a bit more adventurous. If you can really call Stockport adventurous!

The weekend was a great success on all accounts! Mark coped well with the travel and unaccustomed activity and I had a great time painting and filming. Not least because I was filming alongside Bohun an artist I’ve long admired. I’d anticipated a day of dry brushing but what I actually got was the chance to see Bohun’s individual take on the technique and have my mind opened to it’s potential which goes well beyond my own rather pedestrian notions!

I will definitely be posting more about dry brushing and series D in the near future.

You can find the kickstarter here.

Salute 2019

As the trip to Stockport went well we decided we could venture out again and the most obvious thing was a trip to Salute 2019. Unfortunately when the day came I had a bit of a cold and really wasn’t operating at 100% but we’ve done Salute enough times now that it has the ease of familiarity. We both found the day extremely tiring but were glad we went. It was so good to see old friends and acquaintances and in many ways the day felt like a return to ‘business as usual’ after a long interruption.

Of course one of the main reasons for going to Salute was the painting comp. My choice of entries was limited to two. My Isharan Tidecaster and my Sloppity Bilepiper. I was well aware that this might be my only painting comp this year so my choice was an important one. I’m very pleased with both minis but unfortunately they were eligible for the same category so I had to choose.

In the end that was fairly simple as I think the Slopity Bilepiper is the stronger of the two. It’s the model I painted to get back into my hobby and I lavished a lot of time and attention on it. As a result I’d been able to finesse the details to a high standard and it was the mini I was most confident about. This isn’t to say I’m not pleased with the Tidecaster but I think she will benefit from a few tweaks. But that’s for another day and, maybe, another painting comp.

As I said I wasn’t quite feeling 100% and I managed to miss the start of the awards ceremony for the comp. That definitely wasn’t very cool because my Sloppity Bilepiper won Gold in Fantasy Single Figure and I missed the announcement! In spite of that I’m very happy with the result and glad I chose the right mini on the day!

Sproket does Troggoths.

Now it’s time to look ahead and to something I’m eagerly anticipating! On Saturday 1st and Sunday 2nd June I will be returning to Element Games to run a painting workshop. I had several ideas for a subject model but the new Rockgut Trogoths from Games workshop are ideal. There will, of course, be the chance to explore the painting of textures and ‘lifelike’ flesh tones but these models also offer the chance to get to grips with painting volumes and forms in a way that many smaller minis don’t. I’ve been busily preparing for the workshop and my own take on a Rockgut Trogoth is coming along rather nicely.

Booking details will be available from Element Games very soon and I’ll publish them as soon as they are confirmed.